Rallye cluster question

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Darren

Darren

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Hey everyone,
I've been working on getting my cluster back together (68 barracuda) after a long 3ish years. I've updated my tach ( RTE tach kit) and added a solid state limiter (RTE) .
I've posted a few pictures, does everything look correct as far as in proper order. I've had it apart so long not sure lol. Does anyone know if the condenser ( not sure if that's correct name)( circled in red) is needed, I'm running the original AM/FM radio..

Also can someone give some info on how to bench test lights and gauges if possible..
Electrical is one of my weaknesses...
Thanks in advance.

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Your photo is too small for me to see exactly what you've done.
There is a long thread on really dashes with lots of photos started by 4spdragtop.
Do a search for that and you should be able to find photos to compare.
All my contributions to that thread were '67 only, but IIRC Steve was also working on a '68 and others may have put photos in as well.
Also mine was a vac advance in the center pod.

I can't imagine why you'ld not reinstall the capicitor.
On my 67 I found a ground wire from that cap to the metal dash that appeared factory.
 
To test your cluster refer to your FSM. Apply 12v to the appropriate pin and ground the cluster. Three of the gauges are now powered. Ground the appropriate pin from each gauge momentarily. This ,in effect, is grounding each sender and the gauge should read full. Apply 12v to the appropriate pin and all your dash lights should work. Condenser- if you got it, use it.
 
You photo as mentioned--too small but it appears to be a noise suppression cap/ condenser. You MAY not need it with an RTE/ other electronic replacement

To test, you'll need some resistors or a variable rheostat that you can set to specific resistances

This is a photo someone "shopped" showing an aftermarket gauge tester and the resistances needed, one for "empty" one for 1/2 scale, and one for "full." All three gauges should show same readings but test them one at a time. Put the resistors from each gauge sender terminal "in turn" to ground

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All of the lamps are grounded to the housing except one. Clip a ground wire from battery neg' to somewhere on the cast metal housing. Follow the copper trace from lamp position to contact post. Battery positive to that post and lamp comes on. Notice the 4 illumination lamps are in a straight line across to middle of the cavity. One contact pin will turn on 2 of these lamps each side/circuit board.
Notice the BRAKE lamp has traces to 2 pins, 3 o'clock and 5 o'clock. You'll need to attach positive and ground to those pins to test this lamp.
 
Hey guys.. so I tested the dash lights everthing worked.. I took a chance and installed cluster with out testing gauges.
Everthing looks good except 2 issues..
My oil pressure gauge is not working but I have a female connector unhooked (grey wire) right around the oil pressure port. Can anyone confirm if this is the oil pressure wire? If so ill leave it because I have a after market oil pressure gauge hooked up hidden under my dash.
Also for some reason my brake indicator light in dash is always on and when I use the right signal light the brake light flashes on and off.. I'm assuming it's a ground problem..
Is the brake light bulb the only light in dash that uses a isolated ground?
Thanks for any advice.

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Hey guys
A little update concerning the brake indicator light, Upon further investigation I noticed that the light would slightly light up when ignition was on or car was running, then when I put the parking brake on it would get even brighter (like a standard brake light) also when I put the right signal light on the brake lite would flash on and off. I am using LED bulbs , so for the heck of it I swapped the brake indicator light for a standard 194 bulb and everything seams to be working normal now.
I guess I'll leave it and see how things go
 
Could also be a hazard switch "thing" to Darren. We had weird lighting issues with a funky hazard. Also maybe a ground?
Looks great!
 
The brake light is grounded to turn it on when there's a need for a warning. Most cars go two places......the pressure differential switch on the brake distro block, down below the column on the left frame rail.....and the switch on the emergency brake linkage

The grey is you oil pressure
 
67Dart273 said:
The brake light is grounded to turn it on when there's a need for a warning. Most cars go two places......the pressure differential switch on the brake distro block, down below the column on the left frame rail.....and the switch on the emergency brake linkage

The grey is you oil pressure
Click to expand...
Ok. Like I said wierd but I changed from LED bulbs to standard 194 bulb and everything is working as it should .
Thanks for the reply
 
4spdragtop said:
Could also be a hazard switch "thing" to Darren. We had weird lighting issues with a funky hazard. Also maybe a ground?
Looks great!
Click to expand...
Ok ill check it out. I noticed you could plug the hazard harness into the switch 2 ways.. I assume up is hazard on?
Thanks Steve
 
Yes I believe that up is on. Like u said plug can go 2 ways, but I think there is something to properly orient the switch in dash.
Darren said:
Ok ill check it out. I noticed you could plug the hazard harness into the switch 2 ways.. I assume up is hazard on?
Thanks Steve
Click to expand...
 
Strange BRAKE warning lamp issue. That lamp gets its ground from one of two switches. It might be possible for one of them to be faulty, not fully open, but can't say I've ever seen it. A small amount of connection could light up a LED but not light up a 194 enough for you to see it. If I had to guess which switch... The one that can get brake fluid in it. None of that explains its flashing with right turn.
The bare metal terminal that belongs on the oil sender needs to be insulated. If it goes to ground it would peg the gauge and eventually kill it.
 
RedFish said:
Strange BRAKE warning lamp issue. That lamp gets its ground from one of two switches. It might be possible for one of them to be faulty, not fully open, but can't say I've ever seen it. A small amount of connection could light up a LED but not light up a 194 enough for you to see it. If I had to guess which switch... The one that can get brake fluid in it. None of that explains its flashing with right turn.
The bare metal terminal that belongs on the oil sender needs to be insulated. If it goes to ground it would peg the gauge and eventually kill it.
Click to expand...
Yes strange.. I was hoping this has happened to someone else.. like I said everything is working as it should now that a have a standard 194 bulb in the brake indicator socket.. I guess I'll leave for now and have a eye on it .. maybe I will inspect the brake wire on the distribution block.
Thanks RedFish
 
A little update concerning the brake indicator light issue. It was bugging me so I took the emergency brake switch off and the distribution brake block connector off and cleaned both good, also gave the brake pedal a few good shots , pulled the standard 194 bulb out and installed the LED with a different socket ( I have a few spares) and all works as it should with the LED bulb... not sure what the issue was because I did all 4 things at the same lol..
Thanks for all the advice, I'm sure I'll be asking more once I actually take the car for a ride .
Thanks
 
The brake light switch at the pedal is not related to this warning lamp. Good luck with it.
 
The brake warning works same "idea" as the courtesy lights. You have a hot (from the key) feeding one end of the warning light, and then the switch/ grounding end runs off to two switches. If either one is closed, it lights. When things get old, dirty, corroded, etc, "anything" lol
 
RedFish said:
The brake light switch at the pedal is not related to this warning lamp. Good luck with it.
Click to expand...
Agreed . I was referring to the emergency hand brake switch and the distribution block connector.. I read somewhere to give the brake pedal a few good shots to recenter the switch in the distribution block.. if that makes sense..
Thanks again for the help Redfish..
 
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