So I took the original 7 1/4 rear end of of my 67 Barracuda and am putting in a Moser fabricated 8 3/4 rear end. After centering the wheels the diff housing is only like 1 or 2 cm from the gas tank. I know the gas tank is not the original but as far as I can tell it looks to be stock size. Has anyone else run into this on a rear end swap? What should I do.... just get a fuel cell in the trunk? That's about all I can figure to do at this point.
Rear end swap
- Thread starter Orange67
- Start date
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Treblig
Well-Known Member
How about putting a smooth radiused dent in the tank???? Easiest, cheapest route?? The rear end doesn't move much front to back but it does rotate a little.
That seems way to close. The closest I've seen is about 1 inch. Mine in my dart was 3 inches closer than my friend's original 340 duster. Keep in mind, the factory axle location was forward of the center of the wheel openings.
Just spitballin' here, if you loosen the straps is there any play to slide the tank back a tad?
The more I think About it, the more I wonder if he’s slid the axle back farther than factory.
A pic or two would be good.
Tinmannz
Well-Known Member
Not to compare a 67’ Barracuda to a 70’s Ford Pinto, but, wasn’t that part of the problem with the Pinto?
Having the fuel tank too close to the suspension and partially exposed, when rear ended the tank struck a shock mount or something else protruding, puncturing the tank, spewing fuel and going up in flames.
My vote would be to give yourself more of a crumple zone.
Having the fuel tank too close to the suspension and partially exposed, when rear ended the tank struck a shock mount or something else protruding, puncturing the tank, spewing fuel and going up in flames.
My vote would be to give yourself more of a crumple zone.
Yes but on the Mopars, there is also the spare tire well and a large gap between the rear of the tank and the rear bumpers. The pinto, there was not. Tank was right behind the bumper, like right up against it
Kendog 170
Let the boy go !
Don't you just sit the perches on the dimple on a stock leaf spring?
I have super stock springs. Yep. They are on the dimple. Had to shim the whole axle backwards. The tire was rubbing on the front of the wheel well when I first installed it.
They are new super stock springs.
this would be why your gas tank to rear axle clearance is dang near non-existent. But, how thick is your shim?!
I'll have to look at this. This could be a good idea.
I'll take some when I get home tonight.
Thanks
diymirage
HP@idle > hondaHP@redline
time for some pictures brother
you didnt install the springs backwards did you ?
and what tires are you running on which wheels with how much backspace?
there is a fair chance that is where the rub is (hardy-har-ha) and no amount of axle wiggling will fit too big a tire of the wrong amount of backspace
Kendog 170
Let the boy go !
I stretched my wheel openings up front on my new quarter panels before installing. Cut off about an 11/2 and then tin knocked the lip back on. This is what it looked like before any bondo. I was real happy with the results. SS springs also.
The 461 spring goes on the left [driver's side].
That 461 number SS spring is recommended for a 3600 pound car, like B and E bodies.
That spacer is awful thick. Consider using a 1'' spacer with a 1/2'' rearward movement of the axle from stock.
That 461 number SS spring is recommended for a 3600 pound car, like B and E bodies.
That spacer is awful thick. Consider using a 1'' spacer with a 1/2'' rearward movement of the axle from stock.
famous bob
mopar misfit
Then u haver too tall of a tire on it !
After seeing ur pics , most of the problem looks like that bulbous rear end , along with moving ur rear end back !
I have a dana 60 and an oversized tank , and have more room than that.
275 60R15. I dont think I would want to go much smaller than that.
Yah...diff is big.
I think maybe best to just take the fuel tank out and get a fuel cell. The diff fluid filler will probably always be a problem to get to unless I go that route.
So of I went with something like this then how would I plumb that? I guess something like a stainless flex fuel line out the top to a bulkhead fitting where it goes through the floor of the trunk and at that point it switches to a rigid line going forward?
Jaz Products Pro Sport Fuel Cells with D-Ring Cap 270-016-NF
Jaz Products Pro Sport Fuel Cells with D-Ring Cap 270-016-NF
Kendog 170
Let the boy go !
I mounted a cell cell in place of my tank so I could fit 3" exhaust out the back. I got a filler neck similar to Pic and shorthened the stock neck(similar not mine) and used a gas rated hose to join them. Sorry I don't have pics but can take some soon when I can break away to fix my current starter issue.
diymirage
HP@idle > hondaHP@redline
Get rid of those lowering blocks, that's where your problem is
I think once you get it all together and weight on it, it will look fine
Most springs tend to settle a little after a while too
(But I will admit I like cars with a little bit of rake, so "looks fine" might not mean the same to you)
I think once you get it all together and weight on it, it will look fine
Most springs tend to settle a little after a while too
(But I will admit I like cars with a little bit of rake, so "looks fine" might not mean the same to you)
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