oris williams
Member
Just finished my build using Ritter XR steel block. While checking vitals I noticed what seemed to be oil leaking from rear main seal. This seal was expensive and I didn’t expect to have any leaks there. Any ideas?
Rear Main Seal Leak Ritter Block
- Thread starter oris williams
- Start date
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What crank is in it? and what year? Seen many leak if a lip seal is used with a old rope seal crank. The Knurls chew up the lip seal.
oris williams
Member
Using the Molnar 3.79 stroke crank prepped by Bullet Cams
Is the crank knurled at the rear seal?
Matts440
Well-Known Member
Had the same issue with mine, even removed the seal and replaced with the dry sump seal since the wet sump one is on back order or no longer made. Put a crankcase vacuum pump on mine and solved the problem. Did you open up any vent holes in the can galley?
oris williams
Member
No I didn’t. So which crankcase vacuum pump did you use? The only way to change the seal is to remove the crank right?
Can you offset the seal like we do on other small and big block Mopars so the split isn’t flush with the block.
B3422w5
Well-Known Member
Sure it’s not the cam plug.
I layed on my back years ago putting in a rope seal without a lift because I thought it was the rear main.
finally pulled tranny out and could look, was cam plug not installed correctly
I layed on my back years ago putting in a rope seal without a lift because I thought it was the rear main.
finally pulled tranny out and could look, was cam plug not installed correctly
Matts440
Well-Known Member
Nope its a two piece o ring style rear main seal, only thing you can do is on the rubber part put the split going into the eigine. This is what it looks like. Like the R3 block I've heard.
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Matts440
Well-Known Member
Yeah its more set up for a dry sump set up without making holes but like me still have to use a pump. I bought a 4 vain moroso off a member here and fabricated a mount for it, had some bungs welded to my valve covers to connect it too. Yes you'd have to pull the crank, but try the pump, but not sure if the pump will work for your setup with no holes to draw that crankcase gases out, can try off the fuel pump block off plate and pull from there over valve covers.
340sFastback
Well-Known Member
I could not get rear main to stop leaking on stock 340 block until I put thin film of sealer between rear main cap and block surface to keep the oil from getting out between the two surfaces. After that no leaks.
I installed an evac system on my engine. Two aspirator valves with hoses to two breathers. Worked great and did not need to use a pump.
Matts440
Well-Known Member
I did try that at first but for my application it did not work, but could work for his, hard to tell, or can run the setup that welds onto your collectors
The aspirator valves I used do thread onto pipes welded at a 45 degree to the collector
He has a turbo motor, it's not going to work.
Vacuum pump would likely be the only alternative.
Matts440
Well-Known Member
Think he was and I was suggesting the exhaust one for Oris, not myself unless Oris also has a turbo motor. Without the vent holes in the is tunnel, the OP best bet would be a vacuum pump and weld a fitting to the fuel block off plate and pull the pressure out that way from the crankcase. Not sure his full set up.
Ah, if that was the case my apologies. An idea I've been rolling around in my head was using an electronic vacuum pump, could pull one from an EV that has vacuum power brakes.
Matts440
Well-Known Member
Funny thing was I thought the same before I scored the deal on this pump, it was the same type that's on my co workers vw turbo bug.
turbodart68
Well-Known Member
I run the double lip seal on mine. The first one leaked only after it sat for a week. The new one seems to be holding strong. The Peterson engineering seals that everyone sells is not as good as the original seals found in the million plus small blocks out there.
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