Rear ride height affecting camber? Dumbass I meant Caster D’oh!!

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Righty

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Pretty much as in the title, curious as to whether a change in the rear ride height approx plus 1.5” would make a significant difference to the caster, I.e. if the rear is lifted it is tilting the frame forward so the top ball joint in theory is moving forward relative to the contact patch of the front wheel?
Doing some basic calculation, if the wheelbase is 108” and the frame relative to the rear wheel has raised 1.7”, then the incline from the original ride height as a ratio is 1.7:108.
Using an online calculator that converts to 0.9 degrees forward tilt of the frame and correspondingly the front suspension, so presumably a 0.9 degree reduction in caster?

So the next and separate (but related) question is when the front ride height is raised using the TB adjuster bolts does the change in the control arm geometry add more or less positive caster.
 
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Your Thread Title is going to cause some confusion if you do not edit it! Camber is a different angle of measurment in front end geometry! Yes I was a Certified ASE Master!

I will refrain from answering your "Caster" question directly, due to the fact that there are so many experts here on the ForAbodiesonly.com site!

They should Chime in shortly!
 
Your Thread Title is going to cause some confusion if you do not edit it! Camber is a different angle of measurment in front end geometry! Yes I was a Certified ASE Master!

I will refrain from answering your "Caster" question directly, due to the fact that there are so many experts here on the ForAbodiesonly.com site!

They should Chime in shortly!
I don't get it. The question is not important enough?

I'm gonna say, "yes," caster will effectively change with a change in the rear height of the vehicle. Not only does it simply "tilt" things, including the spindle, but raising the rear will transfer some weight towards the front, causing the T bars to compress. It might not be very much, depending on how much it's raised
 
I don't get it. The question is not important enough?

I'm gonna say, "yes," caster will effectively change with a change in the rear height of the vehicle. Not only does it simply "tilt" things, including the spindle, but raising the rear will transfer some weight towards the front, causing the T bars to compress. It might not be very much, depending on how much it's raised
No, Dell.

My answer will get butchered, so there is no reason to respond! Caster and rebound can be a tricky subject so I stand aside!
 
Absolutely rear ride height affects caster. This is why our hot rods of the 70s and 80s handled like crap when we used air shocks and jacked them to the sky. It cause the caster to fall off.
 
The Op's Thread "Title is about Camber", However all the question's in the Op's post are about Caster! The Current Posters know that ride height, either front or rear will have an effect on either measurement.
Personally I am not intrested in putting a ratio on it. Just Figured there were some that would!
 
It's called "frame angle" and it measured like any other angle, with an angle finder. No ratio needed. It's more critical when dealing with trucks that carry loads. The wrong angle can cause ill handling when loaded to maximum gross vehicle weight, usually too much caster. It's pretty easy math. Add or subtract frame angle from caster. It aint perfect but should be close. Passenger cars usually start out with zero frame angle.
 
The Op's Thread "Title is about Camber", However all the question's in the Op's post are about Caster! The Current Posters know that ride height, either front or rear will have an effect on either measurement.
Personally I am not intrested in putting a ratio on it. Just Figured there were some that would!
I think we've all figured out he meant caster and said camber from the context of his post. The height of the rear though, will not effect camber in the least.
 
The ratio I get is 0.016. That is negligible, so the caster would change, but would be almost unmeasurable. Lifting the rear might transfer a little more weight onto the front axles, which would raise the upper control arm, causing a small camber change that also would be hard to measure.
 
Your Thread Title is going to cause some confusion if you do not edit it! Camber is a different angle of measurment in front end geometry! Yes I was a Certified ASE Master!

I will refrain from answering your "Caster" question directly, due to the fact that there are so many experts here on the ForAbodiesonly.com site!

They should Chime in shortly!
Yep, that was a good start!
 
Pretty much as in the title, curious as to whether a change in the rear ride height approx plus 1.5” would make a significant difference to the caster, I.e. if the rear is lifted it is tilting the frame forward so the top ball joint in theory is moving forward relative to the contact patch of the front wheel?
Doing some basic calculation, if the wheelbase is 108” and the frame relative to the rear wheel has raised 1.7”, then the incline from the original ride height as a ratio is 1.7:108.
Using an online calculator that converts to 0.9 degrees forward tilt of the frame and correspondingly the front suspension, so presumably a 0.9 degree reduction in caster?

Raising the rear of the car will result in a loss of positive caster.

It's not "unmeasurable" either. Having checked the caster on my Duster with and without rear slip plates in place to match the height of the front turn plates I know on my car the ~2" change in height from the presence or lack of slip plates on the rear resulted in about a .5° difference in the caster measurements. Some of that obviously depends on the alignment settings, ride height and frame angles you're starting with and spring rates for the springs and bars on the car, but most of those would be a fairly minor effect. So for a change in ride height of ~1.5 to 2" at one end only I would say .5° of caster change is in the ballpark.

Doesn't sound like a lot but if you're running stock UCA's the positive caster is already pretty limited, so losing another half degree by raising the rear end of the car ~2" could be significant. If you're running stock UCA bushings you might only be getting +1.5 to 2° of positive caster to begin with so losing half a degree would be important. Even with stock UCA's and offset UCA bushings you might only be looking at ~+3.5° of caster, so a half a degree loss could still result in less than ideal steering characteristics.

So the next and separate (but related) question is when the front ride height is raised using the TB adjuster bolts does the change in the control arm geometry add more or less positive caster.

Here's a plot of suspension geometry changes over the range of suspension travel, which would be similar to the suspension geometry changes that occur when you raise or lower the front ride height. This is from Bill Reilly's article "Debated Usage" originally published in Mopar Muscle in March 2005. These are changes directly from suspension geometry changes from the control arms moving, not a change in the frame angle (which is held constant to plot these numbers).

Now, these exact numbers are not set in stone, the initial static alignment and ride height plays a role in how much they change too. This chart is plotted for a car that was about 1"lower than the factory ride height with the static alignment numbers listed. The car also had a ~1.5" rake with the rear being higher.. But in general the trends should be similar unless you really change the ride heights or alignment numbers dramatically.

So if you held the frame angle constant and raised the front suspension, that would be "negative dive" on the chart. Meaning, you would lose caster adjusting the control arms to raise the car. So, if you raise the back of the car you lose positive caster because of the change in frame angle, but if you raised the front to keep the frame angle the same you'd still lose caster because of the suspension geometry changes. And with little caster adjustment to begin with you won't be able to adjust all of that out.

IMG_5618.jpg


This explains the method for getting the numbers, also, a direct comment from Bill Rielly that rear ride height directly affects caster.

Screenshot 2025-07-30 at 12.26.46 AM.png


Yep, that was a good start!

I believe you can still edit the thread title...
 
So I thought I would try and plot this out - it's more for curiosity than anything else, so a very simplistic representation of how I see it. So the ratio to degree online calculator seems to be correct - 1.7" : 108" = 0.88degrees, but my assumption that it would equate to a 0.88 degree reduction in caster was not right at all, it would appear to be aprox 0.3 degrees.
Thank you Blu that is a very clear summary which from the various threads I had searched on FABO I was begining to understand. A basic assumption that raising the front ride height would dial out the change in caster doesnt account for the much more direct change that altering the front ride height makes to the control arm geometry.

In the real world for me, I guess that maybe it was a good thing that when I ordered my plus 1" springs from ESPO I also ordered some adjustable hangers from Uncle Brians Speedshop! Firstly because the back of the car is sitting waaay too high now which looks a bit dumb and much more importantly because it definitely has changed the handling - it tramps over bumps and is a lot looser than before. So I will drop down 1" on the hangers to dial out most of the lift, hopefully as the springs settle and flatten as well that will improve things further. Thanks all.

Caster.jpg
 
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I wont be doing this anytime soon, as according to my wife I have other much more important non Mopar things to take care of right now.
Again from looking at other threads on this subject, although offset bushings from Moog offer the ability to add some caster, that is limited and might still be reduced somewhat in then adjusting for negative camber and I guess also from an engineering POV they are a bit of a compromise. It looks like the fixed UCAs from QA1 which have a built in additional 3degrees of caster by shifting the ball joint location back would be the KISS way to go as this additional caster is not reduced by adjusting for camber (total caster from the QA1 arms and adjustments to the control arm mounts obviously would change) and it doesnt involve compromising the structure of the bushings or extreme settings on the control arm mounts. Would that be about right?
 
I used the Moog off sets on my OEM equipped '71 Demon and ended up with -.25* of Camber and +4* of caster with a slight rake on the car. It handles the road well.
 
Point to consider, this is why before ever doing an alignment, step 1 is set ride height.
 

Yes and also understand the knock on effects of ride height changes. I have to confess until I noticed the change in the handling and started looking into it on FABO, I really had not paused to think through what effect the increase in ride height and rake from the new springs would have, or that the "obvious" solution of raising the front ride height would in fact achieve the opposite. So I think I'll try to get the rear set slightly lower with the adjustable hanger brackets, then I will set the front at factory height using the measurments from the FSM, then I'm going to take it into my local shop and see where we can get it to on caster and camber and possibly look initially at replacing the bushings with the Moog adjustables.
 
Righty,
How are you getting the 0.88* number? I see a right angle triangle, as shown in post#13, with the long side[ lower ] being 108" & the short [ vertical ] side of 1.7". Dividing, my calculator gives me 0.016, & the sine of that angle is also very small, 0.01599, & that would be the change in caster.
 
Righty,
How are you getting the 0.88* number? I see a right angle triangle, as shown in post#13, with the long side[ lower ] being 108" & the short [ vertical ] side of 1.7". Dividing, my calculator gives me 0.016, & the sine of that angle is also very small, 0.01599, & that would be the change in caster.
Yes I agree, dividing the 1.7 by 108 does give that figure, which as you say equates to a tiny angle change. Thats the reason i ended up plotting it out in my CAD programme (I design exhibition stands), because when I put the ratio of V 1.7 (43mm) to H 108 (2743mm) into an online calculator it returned the degree value of 0.898.

Online calc.jpeg



So I drew up a very basic representation of the frame rails at horizontal and sitting at the current rear height, with a representative upper BJ set horizontally back from the contact point of the tyre to give a nominal caster of 3 degrees. Then using the centre of the front wheel as the pivot point I rotated the frame to reach the new height at the back +1.7" so the dashed horizontal line on the second drawing is the original line of the frame rail and the angled dashed line represents the frame angle with the rear lifted +1.7 the dimensioning tools in the CAD programme are generated by the programme not my maths so it automatically finds the angle between those 2 lines.

Also another thing I wasnt expecting, I dont know if you saw on the drawing, but the change in frame angle does not directly corelate to the reduction in caster, so the frame angle is +0.88deg but this only reduces caster by -0.29deg. I had assumed that it would be like tilting a table and the top and the legs would rotate by the same amount. In this case I believe that the reason it doesnt is that the caster angle is from the contact patch to the upper BJ whereas the frame angle is from the rear of the wheelbase to the centre of the front wheel so the origin points of those 2 angles are in different places creating 2 differntly proportioned triangles.

It was interesting Blu's comment above seems to tally in roughly with what I found from the drawing.
It's not "unmeasurable" either. Having checked the caster on my Duster with and without rear slip plates in place to match the height of the front turn plates I know on my car the ~2" change in height from the presence or lack of slip plates on the rear resulted in about a .5° difference in the caster measurements. Some of that obviously depends on the alignment settings, ride height and frame angles you're starting with and spring rates for the springs and bars on the car, but most of those would be a fairly minor effect. So for a change in ride height of ~1.5 to 2" at one end only I would say .5° of caster change is in the ballpark.

Anyway for all the drawings and calculators, the reality is I need to drop the rear height using the adjustable spring hanger because it looks silly and isnt as nice to drive as before. I doubt ESPO sent the incorrect springs their reputation tends to make me think not, but the springs that were on there must have been really worn out as the difference in height now is pretty big. To be honest going out and re checking from axle centre to arch with the wheel off its probably more like 2.5". Lucky I fitted adjustable hangers!

EDIT: SO I THINK I HAVE THE ANSWER!

SOH CAH TOA. sine would be for if i knew the opposite and hypoteneuse sides, I dont, I know the opposite and adjacent so I need tan, actually I need inverse tan. School was worth something.

Calculator 31_07_2025 09_46_52.png
 
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When you lift the rear end, you are rotating the front of the car around the front axle, the spindles. Of course, that also happens to be the caster angle.

Maybe I am missing something, but I see the caster angle change to be the tan of angle 0.016, which also happens to be 0.016 degrees.


img012.jpg
 
So not sure if it's that clear on this screenshot, sorry it's probably to small to read but the history shows the calculation using the true dimensions so 43mm / 2743mm and then by inv Tan. It does give the same result as the online calulator, so the key is using inverse tan. I'm glad i'm not a suspension technician.

Calculator 31_07_2025 09_58_36.png
 
As Rusty Rat Rod often says a picture is worth a thousand words. Sorry its raining here so the afters are garage pics. Here is a before on the left and after on the ride height with the ESPO +1" springs, as i said either they sent me +2" by mistake, (unlikely but possible) or my old springs were totally FUBAR. Its about 2.5" difference using the basic measurement of floor to arch lip. Shackles are very upright I loosened them and gave it a bounce but no change. I might loosen up the U bolts to see if its bound up. On another note that touch up spray around the back corner of the door makes me dread what I'm going to find under there. Although the rails look pretty solid from underneath.

IMG_0348.jpg
IMG_0740.jpg
IMG_0741.jpg
 
So I just checked the suspension height at the front, from the bottom of the adjustment blade to ground is 8.7" and from the bottom of the LCA knuckle is also 8.7". According to the FSM the suspension height for the Barracuda should be 1 3/8" +- 1/8". So unless i am taking my measurements in completely the wrong place that would be 1 3/8 lower than factory spec interesting.
 
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