Rear window defroster

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moparisbest

moparisbest

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Ok from what I can tell from the pat# on the switch b is for battery,L is for low ,and H is for high so now all I need to know is we're should I hook the wire for the defroster ? Low or high ?
 
Well, how many connections does your rear window element have?

Probably only 2. One for ground, the other for power.

If the switch has some sort of power reduction resistor (which I doubt) then you could have a two setting rear window.

I would recommend running a relay to power the window unit and use the switch to actuate the relay so as to protect the switch and keep it from melting or the contacts from burning out prematurely.
This way you would just hook H to the relay to trigger the relay, and the relay would have its main to power the window.

Very cool setup you have there.

Where did you get the rear window? Where did you get the switch?

If you have questions about setting up the relay (if interested), I can draw a wire diagram for you and post it here. There are lots of folks on here running relays these days since they allow full power and amps to the peripheral with out being hard on your switches.
 
Rice Nuker said:
Well, how many connections does your rear window element have?

Probably only 2. One for ground, the other for power.

If the switch has some sort of power reduction resistor (which I doubt) then you could have a two setting rear window.

I would recommend running a relay to power the window unit and use the switch to actuate the relay so as to protect the switch and keep it from melting or the contacts from burning out prematurely.
This way you would just hook H to the relay to trigger the relay, and the relay would have its main to power the window.

Very cool setup you have there.

Where did you get the rear window? Where did you get the switch?

If you have questions about setting up the relay (if interested), I can draw a wire diagram for you and post it here. There are lots of folks on here running relays these days since they allow full power and amps to the peripheral with out being hard on your switches.
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Where did you get that x's 2, tried to get one at the auto parts store. Knew I installed one of those years ago.
 
They are factory setups in 75 and 76 for Duster and Dart Sports and also Scamp, Valiants And Darts.
They are fairly hard to come by as not many were used.
They are better than the blower type cause they actually use heat
 
Well I work at a place that at one time was a huge junk yard . The junk yard went out of buisiness along time ago . And now we run a used appliance store and appliances scrap yard . When I started there was 3 or 400 pieces of glass in the basement . And the heated glass was one of them . I have barracuda back glass two years and three dart front glasses . So I have planed to put the heated back glass in from the start of my build . I searched ebay a found the switch for 10 bucks . I was able to find the patent Form on the switch and it has a lot of detail but not how to wire it . The switch is one that there on and off . Not high and low setting so I'm guessing you would just have to chose from one or other . As for running it threw a relay guess I could do that I'm running fan , fuel pump , and msd box threw relays all ready and have an extra relay on my board so guess I could do it that way use high for the glass and low for the light on the switch so that it only lights up when on . Hoping some one will chime in that has this option on there car and let me know how it wires from the factory for I don't find any info on the web except the patent info thanks for your input. P.s the company that made the switch is still in business maybe I will try and contact them

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That switch the light is only on when switch is on. And if I remember correctly it is only on for 15 mins and shuts itself off but can be turned back on. Not 100% on that tho
 
My 1970 Swinger came with a rear window defogger from the factory. Pulls air through one of the rear deck speaker grilles and blows it out through a long slot vent in the center of the rear deck. No heat involved, but it does a great job of circulating the warming air in the cabin to blow on the back window. Clears condensation quickly and does defrost the back window, but it takes some time. I like it well enough that I put one in my Dart GT which is where the under deck photos are from. It all plugs into the harness that runs under the drivers sill plate to the trunk. 2 speed switch.
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Original stuff in my 70 Swinger, below
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below - 2 small switches on the bottom of the dash frame below the headlight switch are factory switches for Map Light and Rear Air.
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The ones with the recirculating interior air non heated don’t work nearly as well as the heated grid.

The one in my 68 Barracuda has two round vents. Takes a long time but you’ll start to see two unfrosted circles eventually.:rolleyes:

I added one when I lived in Iowa. It was better than nothing… barely.

Not very common in SoCal at least. Rarely see them in cars from around here.
 
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autoxcuda said:
The ones with the recirculating interior air non heated don’t work nearly as well as the heated grid.

The one in my 68 Barracuda has two round vents. Takes a long time but you’ll start to see two unfrosted circles eventually.

I added one when I lived in Iowa. It was better than nothing… barely.

Not very common in SoCal at least. Rarely see them in cars from around here.
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I live in that great state and added a aftermarket grid to my wife's car back in the 80's. It worked quite well. It wasn't as pretty as the oem ones but it worked.
 
With the heated grid there is a timer module that ties into it. Mounts under the dash somewhere. I was able to find a NOS one for my car and there seemed to be a few of them out there still.
 
toolmanmike said:
I live in that great state and added a aftermarket grid to my wife's car back in the 80's. It worked quite well. It wasn't as pretty as the oem ones but it worked.
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Scraping windows to go the the grocery store in the snow.:steering:

Bought my scraper at Jockos auto parts

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