I have done some searches and not found exactly what I'm looking for. I am going to have to remove the rear glass in order to install the headliner the correct way and not look like chit. Any clear write -up's tips and tricks to get it done without any damage to anything. Doesn't look like it was sealed with anything other than the gasket. Good place to acquire the locking strip and gasket on the cheap? Doesn't look like the strip on mine is original. The glass was removed by the PO to have the car painted. However the morons didn't put the headliner in before the glass went back in.
rear window removal 64-66 barracuda
- Thread starter 64cudaV8
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KitCarlson
Well-Known Member
I think it takes two people. Pull lock strip, wife with tennis shoes pushes up from inside. Outer person holds it, while inner goes around to hold and carry. The top is where you make the split first.
95teetee
Well-Known Member
and loosen the gasket from the glass before pushing by running something under it (although since the glass was out recently it won't be stuck down as hard as it would be otherwise)
Treblig
Well-Known Member
If the rubber is hard (or even stiff) it's usually best to cut (box cutter) as much of the gasket off as possible. On my '69 Barracuda FB I didn't want to risk breaking the glass so I bought a new gasket in advance and cut off as much of the old gasket as possible. If you're going to replace the old gasket then don't be afraid to cut off as much as you possibly can because even if you cut off as much as possible the glass will still be stuck to the gasket that remains. It's almost like it was glued on but in reality it gets stuck after many years of being in contact with the rubber. Once you get everything removed and cleaned I would strongly suggest applying a couple of coats of brush-on undercoating inside the trough. The trough is where water collects and this is where they all begin to rust. On my '69 the trough will hold water and the stainless trim actually keeps the sun from making the water evaporate. So water just sits under there rotting its' way your precious car. By the time you actually see corrosion in that area it's already eaten a hole into the trough.
Truth be told, I actually removed the pegs that were put around the through. You know, the small clips that the stainless attaches to. I removed all those things that give corrosion a place to begin. I sold the stainless (for good money) and installed the glass like all new cars...Urethane. Now with no stainless to hold the water, and no clips to start corrosion, undercoat to prevent rust, it should last forever!!! Did the same thing to the front glass.
Kinda makes the car look more like a drag car!!
GOOD LUCK,
Treblig
Truth be told, I actually removed the pegs that were put around the through. You know, the small clips that the stainless attaches to. I removed all those things that give corrosion a place to begin. I sold the stainless (for good money) and installed the glass like all new cars...Urethane. Now with no stainless to hold the water, and no clips to start corrosion, undercoat to prevent rust, it should last forever!!! Did the same thing to the front glass.
Kinda makes the car look more like a drag car!!
GOOD LUCK,
Treblig
I did my own, cut the gasket, got the new gasket and expansion strip from Deutchmann Automotive (419-352-7894, ask for Jeff)! When I put the new gasket on I used 3M window sealant (black) on the pinch lip channel and installed the gasket on the body about a day ahead of time! I also used the same sealant in the window channel of the seal before I put the window in! Yes, it got a little messy, but it also acted somewhat of a lubricant to get the window into the channel! A little cleanup, the expansion strip, and about 10 years later, not a leak!! Geof
pishta
I know I'm right....
as said, remove locking strip. fold down rear seats and get in there with your shoes up against the top edge of the window and just push, the chances of breaking the window using this approach is nil. Youll feel the window start to peel out of the gasket, then move down to the lower edge as it officially comes out from that side. Keep a helper up top to prevent you launching the window off the body. Installing was not that difficult: lay window on gasket and start popping gasket lip over window with string method (good luck) or plastic tools. I had my buddy sit on window (thats correct!) so it had firm pressure while I worked gasket about 1/2 inch at a time. It sucked right in. then install lock strip. Use sealer if you want, Gojo works great as a lube and gasket softener.
So I think you have a 64 from your name. Which is the same year I have and I have actually done this. First thing you must do is remove the rear chrome band, you do this from the cargo area, there are 4 nuts that must be removed, and slowly pry that off, taking the trunk hinge covers off will help you out.
Ok so now take the lock strip out, there are 2 pieces if its factory and not been done before, and 2 corner pieces, save the corner pieces and lock strip. At least the corners!!
Now you will need to get a non-marring chisel set, they are plastic. You can get them at harbor freight (etc). Slowly work the seal from the glass all the way around. The factory use a primitive form of buele, so be careful and slowly work that all the way around.
Here you go, takes three people. One will get in the cargo area in the middle of window toward the front. Second two each on one side where the window curves. GENTLY, have the person inside push up as you use your non-marring chisel to get underneath the gasket, this should be easy enough once you have separation each person uses chisel from center outboard, then you should be able to lift up and let the inside person go to the back and support back as outside people lift from front to back until glass is separated from gasket.
Thats how I did it. To install reverse except get some Buetel and use it but watch out its very messy, painters tape is your friend.
Ok so now take the lock strip out, there are 2 pieces if its factory and not been done before, and 2 corner pieces, save the corner pieces and lock strip. At least the corners!!
Now you will need to get a non-marring chisel set, they are plastic. You can get them at harbor freight (etc). Slowly work the seal from the glass all the way around. The factory use a primitive form of buele, so be careful and slowly work that all the way around.
Here you go, takes three people. One will get in the cargo area in the middle of window toward the front. Second two each on one side where the window curves. GENTLY, have the person inside push up as you use your non-marring chisel to get underneath the gasket, this should be easy enough once you have separation each person uses chisel from center outboard, then you should be able to lift up and let the inside person go to the back and support back as outside people lift from front to back until glass is separated from gasket.
Thats how I did it. To install reverse except get some Buetel and use it but watch out its very messy, painters tape is your friend.
grimreaper
Cross Member
No one makes the correct lock strip. Your local glass shop will have one that works. The same one that fits older Chevy pickups.
Oh the other thing, the lock strips that you get are mid 80's chevy s-10 lock strips. Not identical but work just fine.
grimreaper
Cross Member
Precision or CRLawrence WLS848 for 73-90 Chevy PU
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