I am going to power my electric choke with a relay. I have a 68 Dart with electronic ignition. I found this schematic online. Is this how it's done? Any advice will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
I am going to power my electric choke with a relay. I have a 68 Dart with electronic ignition. I found this schematic online. Is this how it's done? Any advice will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.View attachment 1715074420
OK, maybe I'm just stupid, but why not just run a decent wire off the big alternator stud over to the choke? I've seen this done many times.
View attachment 1715075001
The factory powered its electronic chokes from the field circuit of the alternator, NOT the ignition.
A relay is pointless. What you need is a thermal limiter.
Tap into one of the field wires, run it to a limiter and then to the choke itself.
Simple and foolproof.
I have tested, factory limiters for $25 shipped.
Opposite sides of the regulatorThe field and the ignition amount to the same place, electrically
Opposite sides of the regulator
My choke is currently hooked up where IGN1 connects to the ballast resistor. My car would not start. The problem was the connection in the bulkhead. The female side of that connection was slightly deformed from heat. Before I bypass that connection thru the bulkhead, I thought I would run the choke somewhere else.Electrically they are the same point, there is ONLY ONE switch "run" wire coming out of the bulkhead. Depending on the year, that feeds ignition, field "blue" regulator "blue" power, the smog doo dads if used, the electric choke, all of that
On that note if he wants a relay, I'd cut the switched IGN1 coming out of the bulkhead, use the bulkhead end to key a relay, and put the other end on the load contacts.
Before I bypass that connection thru the bulkhead, I thought I would run the choke somewhere else.
On that note if he wants a relay, I'd cut the switched IGN1 coming out of the bulkhead, use the bulkhead end to key a relay, and put the other end on the load contacts.