I was given a low mileage Remanufactured 360 short block still assembled already 0.040" over still got the cross hatches and the crank is already .010/.010", the guy I got it from say it has a spun rod bearing, What would I have to do to repair it? I like to put it in my 5th Ave, I've got a set of J heads and stock 4bbl intake and carb for it plus want to buy a mild 262ish cam for it.
Remanufactured 360 with spun bearing.
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67Dart273
Well-Known Member
I'd be tempted to buy a new rod, or at least a known good used one. Years ago I had a rod "reconditioned" and the machine shop ASSURED me that it was "better than new." I can't prove the rod was the problem, but the next time around the engine grenaded. This was the original 6 pack block in my 70 RR. I removed the Edelbrock, distributor, and valve covers, and threw the rest in the garbage.
bsad67
Well-Known Member
I couldn't do just one! That's a band aid if one spun what makes you think the rest are ok without having them checked??? IMO money well spent to have the crank and rods resized if for anything piece of mind so you know it's not going to grenade. Do it right once less money and less work!!
OwdKasd
Well-Known Member
It's strange that a Bearing spun in a newly rebuilt engine. First thing I'd want to know is why? Then you'd be able to decide if the other bearing's may end up doing the same thing. Did they not replace them? were they the wrong size? You get the Idea....
412 Stroker
Well-Known Member
theres some good info right there X2
I know your right but now the builds gonna snowball, If I'm gonna redo the crank and rods might as well go for new crank and rods plus grab a 4" stroke for the same cost as 3.58" now I have to get new piston which I would do anyways if I'm gonna tear the short block apart for some decent CR, I guess i'll stick with the mild 318 that's in her for now until get the parts to do her right, IF getting new piston should I step up to 0.060"?
swinger340
Well-Known Member
How long was it run w a spun rod bearing? I have a 360 that spun a rod bearing and was only run for 5 min but the crank and 2 rods are spent. I also have a 340 that was over revved and spun # 5 rod bearing. Was shut rite off and was able to clean the crank up @ .010 mains .020 rods and replaced # 5 and 6 connecting rods. They were pounding so hard w the spun bearing that the caps had to be pried off.
I'm not sure how long it was ran with the spun bearing it was used as a temp engine one night in a late model car the only info I got it has a spun bearing don't even know which one.
66plyValiant
Well-Known Member
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Why would you think if one bearing spun that all the rest are going to? You EXAMINE, INSPECT, and CHECK the clearances. You LOOK at them. You look for dirt, debri, lack of oil, signs of overheating. You go back and recheck where the rods came from and their history. You double check the fasteners, and where they came from.
You do NOT just jump in with both feet and throw out 7 perfectly good rods just because one spun.
And if the crank checks out, there is no need to turn the whole crank, either. Hell even the factory put out cranks with one odd journal.
bkbond12
Old ones need lovin too..
x2.....my uncle spun a rod bearing once, replaced just the bearing and gaskets and put over 20k on the engine before the tranny gave up the ghost.
19DART66
Well-Known Member
I pick up a 360 short block back around 1998 with #5 rod spun with .030 over keith black pistons, stock rods with m.p. rod bolts stock crank and balanced. It had about a 100 miles on it when the guy who gave it to me hit it with a 150 shot of nitres, blew the head gasket and filled the pan with antifreeze. Poped the crank out and got a reman crank with bearing from Napa(at time was around 125 bucks) took #5and6 rods and pistons out(did not disturb the ring packs) ,took 2 rods from another 360, had new rod bolts installed and resized and set to the same weight or balance as the old rods pistons and pins pressed back on and new gasket set. Put it back together the next week end and in my buddies car and running by end of week end. Cost my buddy less than $250 at the time , he sold the car in 2008 and as far as I know it is still running today.
p.s. I put a set of ported x heads on it , a .550 lift hyd cam, single plane intake, 3800 converter with 4.56 gears and it was shifted at 6500 rpm.
p.s. I put a set of ported x heads on it , a .550 lift hyd cam, single plane intake, 3800 converter with 4.56 gears and it was shifted at 6500 rpm.
OwdKasd
Well-Known Member
I agree 100% with this. Coming from a line Tech Backround, My hands were usually tied as far as how far I could go with a rebuild. Lot's of warranty work on Ferd Truck engines and they would only let you fix what was broke. 1 Push rod, 2 valves, 1 piston, etc... Heck it may be an easier fix than you think. but once you get in there and check it out you'll know for sure. I would definitely plasti-gauge all the other bearings if just one spun. Good oil pressure and you should be good to go. If you're gonna Drag race it then maybe do things differently.
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