remote oil filter fittings tapped right into the block UPDATE in post 58 and the whole idea got 86ed

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diymirage

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I know ive seen a picture of a member who had tapped the oil passages in the block and installed fittings right in there, but I cant seem to find it now

I'm having an issue with my oil filter plate and I think this might be the best option for me now (short of pulling the motor and having the sealing surface machined)

so, if this was you, I would like to know how you went about it
(and everyone's elses general thoughts on this)
 
I wouldnt attempt to drill and tap those holes on a compleated engine. Getting the plate to seal isnt hard though in my experience.
 
I wouldnt attempt to drill and tap those holes on a compleated engine. Getting the plate to seal isnt hard though in my experience.

feel free to drop by and show me how its done
I tried it several times with a stock plate, two different canton plates, the 90 degree adapter and probably about a dozen sets of gaskets
 
feel free to drop by and show me how its done
I tried it several times with a stock plate, two different canton plates, the 90 degree adapter and probably about a dozen sets of gaskets
Man, if you were closer I would! is it a magnum block or LA? I think the plates are slightly differant. Have you got any pictures of the block? I know people have trouble, but I just have never had a issue sealing those plates. Block damaged in that area, old peice of gasket material? just tossing out ideas
 
its a 75 LA
here is most of what I went through
canton oil plate...still leaking

I tried to reseal the 90 degree adapter again today and this time I know I got it clean
I used a wirebrush on a dremel and some 220 sand paper, glued to the old adapter plate
then cleaned it all with alcohol

I think at this point I need to consider there may an issue with the sealing surface
 
WOW, just read the other thread. my next question is was it leaking from the start or did it develop later? I know you said it was dyno ran, should have shown up then, or perhaps its not the plate? is it possible the pan is leaking, (long shot)
 
no, I put about 1000 or so miles on it before it started to leak, about a half a year

everything above the adapter is dry
the filter is wet
 
no, I put about 1000 or so miles on it before it started to leak, about a half a year

everything above the adapter is dry
the filter is wet
OK, well there will be oil pressure around the ENTIRE circumference of the plate, so if its only on the bottom side, it has to be there that its leaking. I would look real close for a crack, and look at the pan rail area after drying everything off with brake clean. When you install the plate, how many rounds do you have to tighten the filter nipple AFTER finger tight?
 
not sure how many turns it took past finger tight
ive tried so many of the different set ups, they all blend together
 
So the Canton plate still leaks? That's a bummer. Plenty of people have tapped the hole on the oil filter boss. I think you only have to tap one. The center one is already threaded. Have you had that area magnafluxed? I would almost suspect a crack at this point......not trying to give you an omen.
 
yep the canton plate leaks
the second canton plate leaks
the 90 degree adapter leaks
only thing that is consistent is the block

so the center hole is the one the main bolt goes into, 3/4-16, correct?
any idea what I should tap the other hole to?

and the center hole is the pressure side, correct?
 
Yeah. I think the other hole gets tapped to 1/2" NPT. I cannot remmeber.......forgive me, it's been like 30 years since I have done one.
 
no problem

I just might have a 1/2 NPT tap kicking around the garage


so what are your thoughts on this, sound like a viable option or am I wasting my time?
 
no problem

I just might have a 1/2 NPT tap kicking around the garage


so what are your thoughts on this, sound like a viable option or am I wasting my time?

Well, something, somewhere is WRONG. If it was mine, I would try to find out WHAT. You say the only thing that's consistent is the block. That's not true. The only thing that's consistent is the LEAK. You need to confirm WHERE it's coming from. Do you honestly think the stock plate and TWO Canton plates were ALL bad? I sorta doubt it.
 
no, I don't think the stock plate, the two cantons and the 90 degree adapter are all bad, and I refuse to believe I'm so stupid I cant put this together (I can see me screwing it up once or twice, but I must have had bout a dozen attempts by now)

that's why I'm thinking the leak is coming from the block
 
no, I don't think the stock plate, the two cantons and the 90 degree adapter are all bad, and I refuse to believe I'm so stupid I cant put this together (I can see me screwing it up once or twice, but I must have had bout a dozen attempts by now)

that's why I'm thinking the leak is coming from the block

Are you aware that the gaskets go on the stock plate and the 90* adapter in a certain order? The paper one and the cork one have to be in the right place, or it will leak. I forget what order they go in but if you don't get them right.......leak.
 
a real,long shot try to wrap it with pipetape 1nce , clamp a hose on it over the weekend and see if its leaking , might tell you a little more of the story
 
The steel plate gets only 1 gasket........if the surface is clean, and undamaged, and the plate has some "bow" in it before you tighten it, it will not leak. UNLESS there is a crack, or the pan is leaking
 
Are you aware that the gaskets go on the stock plate and the 90* adapter in a certain order? The paper one and the cork one have to be in the right place, or it will leak. I forget what order they go in but if you don't get them right.......leak.

yes sir, and I know for certain I had them on, correct, each time

a real,long shot try to wrap it with pipetape 1nce , clamp a hose on it over the weekend and see if its leaking , might tell you a little more of the story

I'm not picturing this, by pipetape you mean Teflon thread sealer tape?
and where would I attach the hose?
 
ok skip the hose but try the tape yes just the white film tape wrapped counter clock wise as to not strip it off as you screw in just like your carb tape for fine pinching the threads for gas leaking , might have 1 crossed thread????
 
ok skip the hose but try the tape yes just the white film tape wrapped counter clock wise as to not strip it off as you screw in just like your carb tape for fine pinching the threads for gas leaking , might have 1 crossed thread????
WTF are you talking about?
 
ok skip the hose but try the tape yes just the white film tape wrapped counter clock wise as to not strip it off as you screw in just like your carb tape for fine pinching the threads for gas leaking , might have 1 crossed thread????

gotcha, but if I was leaking around the main stud, it would bypass the filter and accumulate in the main housing area, so to speak, before it drains back in the block again through the return hole

the main sealing area would still be the main seal
 
yes sir, and I know for certain I had them on, correct, each time



I'm not picturing this, by pipetape you mean Teflon thread sealer tape?
and where would I attach the hose?

Ok, I just wanted to make sure. A lot of people either don't know or forget and they end up with a leak.
 
understandable...but I made sure I did it right
specially after about the 3rd time around :banghead:
 
ok I'm lost sorry its sneaking past the gasket I have to go back and
look at is it getting tight enough or stripping that the gasket isn't sealing ?, or over tightend to twist the gasket and make it leak did you try a diff 90 or same adapter other wise I would think like RR very minute frature to the block
 
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