remote oil filter fittings tapped right into the block UPDATE in post 58 and the whole idea got 86ed

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thanks Rusty
it looks like in the first picture (post #4) they ran it through the center hole
in the other pics they block it, like you mentioned

I wonder why the inconsistency
 
I've tapped a couple blocks and the lower hole is all you need to tap and 3/8" NPT is the biggest you can go because right next to the hole the block starts turning outward for the trans mounting flange. I know I took some pics but I can't seem to find them. If I locate them I'll post them
 
Ok, im out. the info for making it a remote setup has been in the mopar engine manuals since about 1973. It would be crazy to drill and tap a oil galley on a assembled engine. diagnosing a leak isnt very difficult. good luck to you sir.
 
replicaracer43 said:
Ok, im out. the info for making it a remote setup has been in the mopar engine manuals since about 1973. It would be crazy to drill and tap a oil galley on a assembled engine. diagnosing a leak isnt very difficult. good luck to you sir.
Click to expand...

I tend to agree. I was only trying to give him what he asked for. Didn't mean to ruffle any feathers.
 
replicaracer43 said:
Ok, im out. the info for making it a remote setup has been in the mopar engine manuals since about 1973. It would be crazy to drill and tap a oil galley on a assembled engine. diagnosing a leak isnt very difficult. good luck to you sir.
Click to expand...
I don't see a problem with it since the only hole you need to tap is the output coming from the pump. Grease your tap up good and most of the tappings will stick to it then when you remove it crank the engine over and the oil pump will flush the rest out.
 
trust me guys, if I could figure out how to fix this the proper way, I would

fishy68 said:
I've tapped a couple blocks and the lower hole is all you need to tap and 3/8" NPT is the biggest you can go because right next to the hole the block starts turning outward for the trans mounting flange. I know I took some pics but I can't seem to find them. If I locate them I'll post them
Click to expand...

would love to see a few more pics of you can find them

so, the small hole is the output?
I always figured the big center hole was

that's good to know
 
diymirage said:
trust me guys, if I could figure out how to fix this the proper way, I would



would love to see a few more pics of you can find them

so, the small hole is the output?
I always figured the big center hole was

that's good to know
Click to expand...
Yeah the lower small hole is the output. I'll keep looking for the pics. I have a bazillion and need to go through and organize them
 
fishy68 said:
I've tapped a couple blocks and the lower hole is all you need to tap and 3/8" NPT is the biggest you can go because right next to the hole the block starts turning outward for the trans mounting flange. I know I took some pics but I can't seem to find them. If I locate them I'll post them
Click to expand...

do you remember if that hole is the right size to tap it 3/8 NPT ?
because I think I can sneak a tap up there, but I doubt I can get a drill in there
 
If you suspect a crack in the block, what makes you think using a remote filter will fix it? Did you change the oil filter after changing the plates? Changed brand of oil filter then got a leak?
 
I suspect a crack on the sealing surface of the block
by installing a remote filter set up like this I can bypass that sealing area, hopefully fixing the leak

I have tried several different filters and brands, al with the same result
 
I doubt the block is cracked in that area, cuz it did not leak for 1000 miles and in that area the block is very thick. I have seen many cracked blocks, never there. the hole U need to tap is the pressurized oil out from the pump, it is about 1/2" diameter, assuming the fitting U are going to put in there is 3/8" npt-use a 3/8" npt tap-if that is correct for a 1/2" hole. I have seen this done years ago in a magazine, it may be tough finding a fitting for the 3/4 sae thread going in
 
diymirage said:
I suspect a crack on the sealing surface of the block
by installing a remote filter set up like this I can bypass that sealing area, hopefully fixing the leak

I have tried several different filters and brands, al with the same result
Click to expand...
doubt very much it's cracked. plate/MINIMAL sealant/torque to 15ft-lbs, no leaks.
 
DARTH V8R said:
doubt very much it's cracked. plate/MINIMAL sealant/torque to 15ft-lbs, no leaks.
Click to expand...

you are probably right, but I can NOT think of anything else that could cause this leak, so by building the remote filter setup like this, at least I can eliminate the machined sealing surface

for the center I was thinking of using the plug you would use to install the stock filter plate, with one of these attached

Aluminum F5 flare 3/4”-16UNF (Flare nut) to 1/2” barbed hose fitting
 
You can get an affordable crack check kit that uses dye penetrant to find the crack if there is one. I don't think I would move forward until I found a crack, or ruled one out.
 
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