Is anyone willing to list the steps required to remove the heater/AC box from a 74 Duster. I need to replace mine
Thanks in advance.
:burnout:
Thanks in advance.
:burnout:
Removal of heater box
- Thread starter DusterDaddy
- Start date
-
ken5124
65 Valiant Signet
Recently did mine in a 65 A body Valiant. Not AC, but should be close.
Drain radiator coolant
Disconnect heater hose clamps and hoses from firewall area
Use a plastic tube and syphon as much coolant as possible from the radiator core
Remove small metal cover from firewall side which holds the heater line hose fitting in place
From the inside remove glove box cover, remove glove box. Probably 2 small screws on the side holding it in place
There are 3 cables that control air flow , temp and defrost. they are top of the heater box inside the car. I suggest labelling them so you know which one goes where on reassembly
They have a small metal clip on top of them where they hook onto the control shaft.. they need to be gently pushed up and off. Don't loose them.
Each of the cables has a clip to hold the cable end in place. this clip is secured with a small screw into the bracket.. Once the screw is out, use a small screwdriver to pop the clip off of the metal tang, from the bottom or side.
remove the 3 cables from the heater box and secure them out of the way.
remove the heater air tubes from the heater box, secure out of the way.
At the bottom right corner of the heater box under the vent door, is a small bolt. It is connected to a shaft, which goes up inside the vent and hooks on top of the air hole.. Reach up in there and see how it is set up. As you unscrew that bolt.. the rod will come free and you can un hook from the inside of the heater box vent and remove.
Make sure you hold that shaft with pliers or something as the bottom has a metal L shaped tang which could spin if the bolt is rusted in there and could damage your heater core.
Un hook electrical power at the heater resistor. It is right on top of the heater box.
Disconnect the ground wire.. On mine it was screwed to the body behind the kick panel on the passenger side.
You are almost there
Go back under the hood.. There are 4 nuts holding the heater box fan motor in place. remove them and gently push the heater motor to the inside. There is a metal ring, and a rubber washer behind it.
Now go back inside and gently work the whole box inwards until it basically falls toward you.
You did get as much of the coolant out as possible right...? Otherwise this is where you get antifreeze on your carpets.
Watch out for 4 small metal spacers which seem to get hooked out and fall behind the insulation.. They go on the blower mounting studs to seperate the box from the firewall. They are about 3/4 inch long.
That should be it
On mine I put in a new blower motor, then wired in a 4 speed resistor, new 4 speed fan and on and off switch from a different make to provide a few different levels of fan speed. If you want details let me know
If you need some pictures , log into Classic Auto air and download their installation manual for the late 60 a body mopar install.. It shows lots of pictures as you take the original unit out.
Happy Holidays
Drain radiator coolant
Disconnect heater hose clamps and hoses from firewall area
Use a plastic tube and syphon as much coolant as possible from the radiator core
Remove small metal cover from firewall side which holds the heater line hose fitting in place
From the inside remove glove box cover, remove glove box. Probably 2 small screws on the side holding it in place
There are 3 cables that control air flow , temp and defrost. they are top of the heater box inside the car. I suggest labelling them so you know which one goes where on reassembly
They have a small metal clip on top of them where they hook onto the control shaft.. they need to be gently pushed up and off. Don't loose them.
Each of the cables has a clip to hold the cable end in place. this clip is secured with a small screw into the bracket.. Once the screw is out, use a small screwdriver to pop the clip off of the metal tang, from the bottom or side.
remove the 3 cables from the heater box and secure them out of the way.
remove the heater air tubes from the heater box, secure out of the way.
At the bottom right corner of the heater box under the vent door, is a small bolt. It is connected to a shaft, which goes up inside the vent and hooks on top of the air hole.. Reach up in there and see how it is set up. As you unscrew that bolt.. the rod will come free and you can un hook from the inside of the heater box vent and remove.
Make sure you hold that shaft with pliers or something as the bottom has a metal L shaped tang which could spin if the bolt is rusted in there and could damage your heater core.
Un hook electrical power at the heater resistor. It is right on top of the heater box.
Disconnect the ground wire.. On mine it was screwed to the body behind the kick panel on the passenger side.
You are almost there
Go back under the hood.. There are 4 nuts holding the heater box fan motor in place. remove them and gently push the heater motor to the inside. There is a metal ring, and a rubber washer behind it.
Now go back inside and gently work the whole box inwards until it basically falls toward you.
You did get as much of the coolant out as possible right...? Otherwise this is where you get antifreeze on your carpets.
Watch out for 4 small metal spacers which seem to get hooked out and fall behind the insulation.. They go on the blower mounting studs to seperate the box from the firewall. They are about 3/4 inch long.
That should be it
On mine I put in a new blower motor, then wired in a 4 speed resistor, new 4 speed fan and on and off switch from a different make to provide a few different levels of fan speed. If you want details let me know
If you need some pictures , log into Classic Auto air and download their installation manual for the late 60 a body mopar install.. It shows lots of pictures as you take the original unit out.
Happy Holidays
whitepunkonnitro
Well-Known Member
You're going to have to drop the steering column from the dash frame, then remove the bolts from the bottom corners of the frame, and pull it forward several inches to make room for the A/C unit.
California Dart
Dont List Websites Here
is it this complicated for a plain heater box?
A factory service manual is your best reference for this and many other proceedures.
You may find the manual as free download here somewhere but if not it will be worth every penny spent if you plan to do these type repairs yourself.
The advantage of a forums members and their experience is best limited to tips.
here's an example... Someone may have mentioned a J bolt that goes through the right vent box from the bottom up. It hooks to the cowl and draws the vent box up.
They and the service manual wont mention that the bolt has a predetermined thread length so it cant be over tightened or even tightened a tad more than before removal.
The service manual wont remind you this is a 30+ year old car and that vent box seal will probably need replaced. It's a 5 dollar piece at Detroit Muscle Technologies.
To clean the surface with alcohol before attaching the seal helps but the adhesive supplied on that seal really is pitiful. It will peel off the seal about as easy as its paper backing peels off Use 3M weatherstrip adhesive instead and let it cure a while so the seal stays in place.
You may find the manual as free download here somewhere but if not it will be worth every penny spent if you plan to do these type repairs yourself.
The advantage of a forums members and their experience is best limited to tips.
here's an example... Someone may have mentioned a J bolt that goes through the right vent box from the bottom up. It hooks to the cowl and draws the vent box up.
They and the service manual wont mention that the bolt has a predetermined thread length so it cant be over tightened or even tightened a tad more than before removal.
The service manual wont remind you this is a 30+ year old car and that vent box seal will probably need replaced. It's a 5 dollar piece at Detroit Muscle Technologies.
To clean the surface with alcohol before attaching the seal helps but the adhesive supplied on that seal really is pitiful. It will peel off the seal about as easy as its paper backing peels off Use 3M weatherstrip adhesive instead and let it cure a while so the seal stays in place.
cudamark
Well-Known Member
For an A/C setup, add this to the above......Evacuate the freon, disconnect and plug the A/C hoses, and disconnect the vacuum lines under the dash that operate the flaps in the heater box. It's a toss up as to which is better to do......remove each individual hose off each servo or to unplug the hose harness from the control. If you tag the individual hoses, that's the way I would recommend. The problem with pulling the plug is that you're likely to break off the vacuum nipples on the switch. If course, if the nipples are already broken, you'll want to replace the switch anyway but if it's working properly now, I wouldn't mess with it. The A/C heater suitcase comes in two sections so be carefull to support both sides or you could break the housing where they connect.
ram250098
69 Barracuda
After doing a couple of them, I have always found it easier just to sell the car and buy one with one that works LOL.
AL
oooh this does not sound good.....
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