Removing axle from Dana 60

-
RockinRobin

RockinRobin

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 15, 2013
Messages
1,251
Reaction score
911
Location
Corsicana, Tx
So I have a broken wheel stud and need to pull the axle to replace it..Does the axle just pull out like an 8 3/4 or does it have a clip inside the center section? I confess I've never been inside one before.
It is a Moser Engineering Dana 60, but I assume they would all have the same internal architecture.
 
My S60 you unbolt at the hub and pull them out. I can’t imagine a race rear still utilizing C clips.
 
Works the same as 8.75 axles. just heavier.

No stinking C-clips on a Dana 60.
 
My question, why do you need to pull an axle to change one stud? Hammer it out, and use nuts/ spacers to pull the new one in
 
Never use this method ( Nut with washers) on a fastener that is torque sensitive ( stretch).The stud is subject to stretching when trying to pull it in with the threads of the nut.
Like installing any other fastener that is torqed to a specific spec for safety.
Removing the axle is the correct way to do it. Just be careful when sliding the axle out to protect the inner housing seal.
Unless you are on the side of the road in Mexico...
 
Last edited:
UPDATE: Took a little persuasion but it (the axle) eventually popped out. The broken stud came out easily with an impact wrench. Now I just need to get some Moser 3" threaded studs and I'm back in business. It looks like the Weld lug nut failed and stripped. I wonder if I should switch brands of lug nuts, but they are Weld wheels. I ran a thread chaser over all of the other studs and removed any bad spots.
 
RockinRobin said:
UPDATE: Took a little persuasion but it (the axle) eventually popped out. The broken stud came out easily with an impact wrench. Now I just need to get some Moser 3" threaded studs and I'm back in business. It looks like the Weld lug nut failed and stripped. I wonder if I should switch brands of lug nuts, but they are Weld wheels. I ran a thread chaser over all of the other studs and removed any bad spots.
Click to expand...
I just had the same thing happen 2 weeks ago.
Brand new f'n lug nut. Those things aren't cheap...studs or lug nuts. I bought some arp screw in studs
 
RockinRobin said:
UPDATE: Took a little persuasion but it (the axle) eventually popped out. The broken stud came out easily with an impact wrench. Now I just need to get some Moser 3" threaded studs and I'm back in business. It looks like the Weld lug nut failed and stripped. I wonder if I should switch brands of lug nuts, but they are Weld wheels. I ran a thread chaser over all of the other studs and removed any bad spots.
Click to expand...
The quality of the shouldered lug nuts for Weld style wheels is down these days. Maybe now would be a good time to upgrade to 5/8" screw in studs and the flat flanged style lug nuts, since you already have it apart.
 
Bobzilla said:
The quality of the shouldered lug nuts for Weld style wheels is down these days. Maybe now would be a good time to upgrade to 5/8" screw in studs and the flat flanged style lug nuts, since you already have it apart.
Click to expand...
Yes, it's definitely the lug nuts that are stripping, but then you have to break off the stud to get it off the axle. I already have Moser screw in studs, 1/2". I just need to find some better quality lug nuts that work with Weld draglites.
 
A good example of giving removal advice without knowing all the facts. ( screw in studs) .
It was best to remove the axle.
Contact Moser about lug nut compatibility and torque specs with their studs and Weld wheel as well.
The manufacturers should have this info especially since they are well known performance companies.
 
MoparLeo said:
A good example of giving removal advice without knowing all the facts. ( screw in studs) .
It was best to remove the axle.
Contact Moser about lug nut compatibility and torque specs with their studs and Weld wheel as well.
The manufacturers should have this info especially since they are well known performance companies.
Click to expand...
Great idea!
 
RockinRobin said:
Will be going online with them, then calling Moser about what lug nuts they recommend.
Click to expand...
16842945600298126968149217524498.jpg

These are what I got
 
Last edited:
I called Weld and they say the torque specs for the 1/2" lug nuts is 85-95 ft. lbs. I've always torqued them to 100, so this may be on me, but it doesn't seem like that much more. Will do 90 from now on.
 
RockinRobin said:
I called Weld and they say the torque specs for the 1/2" lug nuts is 85-95 ft. lbs. I've always torqued them to 100, so this may be on me, but it doesn't seem like that much more. Will do 90 from now on.
Click to expand...
Did moser say anything in particular about the studs and which the recommended?
 
MOPARMAGA said:
Did moser say anything in particular about the studs and which the recommended?
Click to expand...
I just confirmed the part number for the studs that I have on the axle. Since the studs are fine and it was the lug nut that stripped, I figured I would just replace it with the same one Moser put in originally. The issue was the lug nuts, not the studs. I ran a thread chaser across all of the studs on both wheels today and found no issues. It's all put back together and lugs are torqued to 90 ft. lbs. instead of 100 that I used to do. I will watch things very closely the next time I rotate slicks.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top