Removing Clutch/Brake Assembly- 69 Dart

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Franko

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Does anyone have any experience removing the Clutch/Brake Assembly on a 69 Dart? I have removed all the bolts, but the assembly hits a bracket in front around the speedo cable, before the bolts that attach the master cylinder clear the firewall. This bracket appears to be attached somewhere higher up in the dash. Do I have to remove the instrument cluster to remove this bracket or am I missing something simpler? Also I've loosened the steering column and I was hoping to lower it to get this assembly out? Or do I have to remove it?

Thanks for any advice.
 
Has anybody else removed the clutch/brake assembly on a 67 - 69? I'm stuck. I can pull the assembly a little to the interior but it hits the bottom of the dash and a bracket that doesn't seem to be removable. Do I have to remove the dash and instrument cluster to get this assembly out?
 
There is a bracket on the pedal assembly

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make sure to take it off it will make things way easier. I got to all the bolts with the cluster in but, maybe it is easier without it in there?

You might also want to yank the steering column out so there is more room. I did manage to get my pedal assembly in with the column on but It was a real pain.
 
I just removed and installled another assembly. Like mentioned earlier, remove the plate pictured from the top of the pedal assembly. I removed the 3 bolts that hold the steering column to the firewall. It was tight getting the studs through the firewall withoutit binding on the dash bracket. I also had to drop the emergency brake handle down.
 
I did have that bracket removed. But, I think I see what you guys are saying about how to work that assembly out. I think I will remove the steering wheel column because it doesn't look like I can get the assembly out with it in place. There is a pin I have to remove by the steering box. It looks like a pin with a sleeve around it. Do you know if I just drive the pin out and then the sleeve comes out or do I get a larger punch and drive the sleeve and pin out in one fell swoop? When I remove the pin and sleeve will that column easily separate there or will it be tricky?
 
I did have that bracket removed. But, I think I see what you guys are saying about how to work that assembly out. I think I will remove the steering wheel column because it doesn't look like I can get the assembly out with it in place. There is a pin I have to remove by the steering box. It looks like a pin with a sleeve around it. Do you know if I just drive the pin out and then the sleeve comes out or do I get a larger punch and drive the sleeve and pin out in one fell swoop? When I remove the pin and sleeve will that column easily separate there or will it be tricky?

It's a roll pin, take a punch and drive it out. Remove the bolts from the plate at the fire wall and the 3 (I think) at the dash area. Disconnect wiring, grab steering wheel and pull. It should hopefully come out if the knuckle isn't bad or loose. Now finish pulling the pedals.
 
I got that roll pin out. I went to Harbor Freight and bought a set of punches, which was recommended in an old post. That worked like a champ. But before I pull the steering column out I was wondering if I have to make a couple of marks where that pin was so things will line up the same again or can it only go on one way. I looked in the service manual but I don't see that mentioned. Also I assume I reuse the same pin.
 
Mine had a notch on the steering shaft coupling that lined up with a flat spot on the steering gear shaft, so like gdrill said it only goes on one way.
 
You guys RAWK!!! I read this thread yesterday, and look what I was able to do today after work.....
100_1057.jpg

Came right out of the 69 Valiant!!! Thanks!!!
 
YAH! I finally got that clutch assembly out. Thanks for all the suggestions. But now I have another couple of questions. I've read some threads about removing the clutch spring but it is not crystal clear to me. Like using washers between the coils. Do you pound them in with a hammer? I ruined one once on a 55 Chevy doing that. Does it work best with the clutch pedal up not depressed? Does anybody have any gems of advice for getting that spring off?

Also the clutch pedal is bent and that arm doesn't hit the stop with the bumper. Does anybody know if I should just take a torch, heat it red hot and bend it back or should I can I beat it with a hammer without the torch. Is that metal tempered and will either of these techniques affect that.
 
Push the pedal so the spring will stretch out and have openings between the coils. Then put the washers in and pull the pedal back and the spring will come off easily. As for the bent pedal, mine was bent and I put it in a vice and just pull on the pedal and it will bend without heat..
 
The first photo shows why I had to remove the Cluch Pedal Assembly. Before I bought the 69 Swinger, the C clip and washer must have fallen off and allowed the clutch king pin to work its way out of the bearings which caused the clutch pedal arm and stop arm to bend away from the rubber stop.

Does anybody have an A body heavy duty clutch pedal assembly laying around so that they could take a picture of the end with with the C clip and get a measurement of the thickness of the washer behind the C clip? The second photo shows mine. The washer I used was about 3/32" thick and I used a really large one. But I didn't have the original one to use or look at. I've heard that there wasn't any washer on the other end of the king pin, where it is welded in to the clutch pedal arm. If I push on the king pin from the C clip side I have a couple of thousandths of clearance on the welded side. I didn't want this to fail again because it was a bear to take it out and I'm sure I'll have lots of fun getting it back in.

Thanks for any help.
 

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