Replace all wiring?

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Newf

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Hi all,

I'm doing a full resto on my 72 Demon and I am getting it ready for blasting. What I'm wondering is should I replace all the wiring in the car as it will be the best time do it with it stripped to the shell and being 40 years old.does anyone know if you can buy full wiring kits for this year and model? Thanks in advance,

Joe
 
if your gonna do now is the time....

as for a kit i guess it depends on what your going to do with the car. if its going to be all stock and your not adding accessories to it then check out what year one sells for it.. they have the best quality harnesses for a stock style harness.

if the car is going to be a more modified type of car with electric fans, electric fuel pump, a/c, good sound system and other accessories then i would recommend something like the american autowire highway 22 kit.. its a very high quality and complete kit..
 
Is this a concours restoration for show or do you want to build a better than original car ? Sorry I anwered your question with a question but...
If we assume someone does offer a complete and exact reproduction wiring harness for your car we can expect the same flaws and/or short commings found in the original.
 
Is this a concours restoration for show or do you want to build a better than original car ? Sorry I anwered your question with a question but...
If we assume someone does offer a complete and exact reproduction wiring harness for your car we can expect the same flaws and/or short commings found in the original.

Thanks for the input, as I am unfamiliar with the shortcomings of the factory setup. It sounds like an upgrade is in order. I am not planning on much more than stock except for maybe a decent sound system. My decent may be low end for some though so I'm talking $500 most. Other than that, stock. Thanks again.

Joe
 
Thanks for the input, as I am unfamiliar with the shortcomings of the factory setup. It sounds like an upgrade is in order. I am not planning on much more than stock except for maybe a decent sound system. My decent may be low end for some though so I'm talking $500 most. Other than that, stock. Thanks again.

Joe

then go with the highway 15..
 
I replaced the entire engine harness in my 65 Dart, using the lamp harness from a 74 Dart. My engine wires were too hard and hacked up to restore, plus I installed a PDC from a modern car (took a long time).

An after-market engine harness depends on many things, like little support for a slant six. If you are going EFI or electronic ignition, now or future, it changes things. Ditto for a newer alternator or fixing the "ammeter-bulkhead" issue or "weak headlights" issue. After-market harnesses are very expensive and you may have to customize anyway.

I kept my under-dash harness since the wire insulation was still flexible, and just restored it. I removed all prior hacks (many ugly butt splices), added a few wires for new components, added a relay for the accessory switch output, and covered with new loom. Ditto for the body wiring to the trunk. I removed the terminals and pulled the wires thru PVC sheath since the woven cloth cover was falling apart. You could also use plastic loom. While your cluster is out, restore that. I removed the clear lenses and polished, had the face chromed, and used LED bulbs. It was quite ugly before and looks very nice now.
 
I replaced the entire engine harness in my 65 Dart, using the lamp harness from a 74 Dart. My engine wires were too hard and hacked up to restore, plus I installed a PDC from a modern car (took a long time).

An after-market engine harness depends on many things, like little support for a slant six. If you are going EFI or electronic ignition, now or future, it changes things. Ditto for a newer alternator or fixing the "ammeter-bulkhead" issue or "weak headlights" issue. After-market harnesses are very expensive and you may have to customize anyway.

I kept my under-dash harness since the wire insulation was still flexible, and just restored it. I removed all prior hacks (many ugly butt splices), added a few wires for new components, added a relay for the accessory switch output, and covered with new loom. Ditto for the body wiring to the trunk. I removed the terminals and pulled the wires thru PVC sheath since the woven cloth cover was falling apart. You could also use plastic loom. While your cluster is out, restore that. I removed the clear lenses and polished, had the face chromed, and used LED bulbs. It was quite ugly before and looks very nice now.

Any pics of your work?? Thanks for the input.

Cheers,

Joe
 
I have replaced every wire under the Dart’s hood, and modified the system with relays operating headlights, electric choke, o2 sensor, and charging circuit. The Dash just needed a few hacked up conductors replaced, a new fuse block, and a pair of relays operating the convertible top pump. Also I replaced every brass connection to eliminate any corrosion resistance problems, and installed a new OEM bulkhead connector.

Rear of car is all original, but I did rebuild light sockets clean all lamp housings, remake all grounds, reinstall tail light assemblies with new body gaskets.

The electrical system is now very reliable.

Price a new harness replacement (several sub harnesses needed), and you’re looking at a thousand bucks to do the job in just parts.
 
Thanks for the input, as I am unfamiliar with the shortcomings of the factory setup. It sounds like an upgrade is in order. I am not planning on much more than stock except for maybe a decent sound system. My decent may be low end for some though so I'm talking $500 most. Other than that, stock. Thanks again.

Joe

30 plus years after production and its a safe bet that every issue in the cars electrical has been discovered and addressed. To refurbish the original woring and upgrade potential faults is not extremely complicated or expensive. It is time consuming.
Replacing all of the electrical components would be expensive.
Most any owner/operator would appreciate brighter headlights, wipers that run smooth and quietly, etc...
When I alter a wiring harness I document the changes. A digital copy of the factory schematic is edited to show my changes. Revised schematic is printed and placed in the car. This is for my reference and future owners.
 
I've rewired my Demon with Painless #10127 Mopar 14 Circuit kit and it was easy and straight forward so far, its just time consuming is all. I bought it before researching others and I think I would have went with AbodyJoes suggestions since its less $$$ and has good reviews. I have finished all lighting and tying in gauge panel. I still need to finish ignition section.
I believe a complete yearone one factory replacement gets pricey, $800-900. I paid $420 at Mopac for mine, and $120 for the gauge harness for autometer (or other aftermarket) gauges which made life easier.
Wiring is tedious and no friggin fun, has no "WOW" factor for the time you spend on it,,,but if done right you will never have issues.
Definately go with new stuff of one brand or the other, reusing that 40 yr old harness or any part of it will be trouble later. My $.02
 
I used a Painless Mopar specific kit and it worked brilliant, even stood up to an alternator field short without incurring any damage, I saw a cheaper wiring kit melt under the same circumstances so I wouldn't scrimp on cost.
I honestly think that a modern wiring system is the best improvement you can make on an old Mopar
 
Any pics of your work?? Thanks for the input.

Cheers,

Joe

I'll post with photos when I get time and have more data. Some will be interested how I designed in dual diodes as a shunt across my ammeter, so it operates normally at low current, but bypasses at high current. I have a square-back alternator (70 A?) on a 65 Dart.
 
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