replacement B&M and Hurst shifter cables

[65TerrorCuda]

Anybody have a good experience with replacement cables? I tried a couple Speedmaster cables and they're terrible. Got a B&M on order but heard they've got a bunch of slop built into them as well, minumum 0.150". The 30 year old Hurst V-matic 2 cable had 0 slop but a ton of resistance once installed. If I hadn't burned it on the exhaust, well, I wouldn't be asking. The Hurst replacement is over $110, not much more than the whole shifter cost in the 90's.

 

[junkyardhero]

The Hurst replacement is over $110, not much more than the whole shifter cost in the 90's.

well at 110 that's only like 1/4 what a new V matic costs, so you buy a new v-matic and it comes with the cable-- that's technically money ahead!

 

[65TerrorCuda]

well at 110 that's only like 1/4 what a new V matic costs, so you buy a new v-matic and it comes with the cable-- that's technically money ahead!

I like your way of thinking. Wonder if the V matic is still made in USA

 

[Oldiron440]

I’ve seen the cables on Summits website before, at least B&M cables…

 

[65TerrorCuda]

I’ve seen the cables on Summits website before, at least B&M cables…

I've got a B&M on the way, just curious if it's decent. I read it's around .100" of slop, which is not good. All 3 cables I've received so far appear to be made in the same factory to various levels of junkiness.

B&M and Hurst are owned by MSD as I recall, and the Hurst says made in China so I'm guessing they're all in that boat now.

 

[str12-340]

B&M cables work great with B&M shifters, not sure paired with other brands. Heat resistant sleeve recommended.

 

[Duster346]

The majority of Holley's products (and all of the umbrella companies, Hurst, b&m, msd, etc, etc) are made in china. They have been owned by a private equity firm for the last several years.

 

[junkyardhero]

I like your way of thinking. Wonder if the V matic is still made in USA

i am undefeated in the free marketplace of ideas.

i got a V matic 3 with some parts a few weeks ago, it's not very old and it's still made in yoosah

*i should clarify there is a USA stamp on the **** lever. how much of it is made here and with what parts, i'm unsure of.

 

[CRUZE 418]

Are we talking Morse control type cable here? Or something else? I had to get a longer cable for my B&M rachet shifter. Control Cable in California. They will make one if you need something special.
Just Google it.

 

[Oldmanmopar]

I melted mine and fixed it. Mine spread out like a peacock when the heat melted it . I took it off and heated the area where it spread. Then took lashing wire and wrapped it tight around the affected area like a spring keeping the wraps as close as possible for about a foot. Stopping it from spreading. Then doubled up heavy duty shrink wrap.

The way I kept it from the heat again was I ran it out the passenger side of the hump . Up over the bell and held it against the trans with holders on the bell bolts. I install all of them like that now and never had an issue. Also run it through a good quality heat wrap.

I also have seen the shifters installed backwards and ran the cable from the back front. This is a 4L80 Cable goes through the center of the bench seat, This puts park all the way back.

 

[65TerrorCuda]

Are we talking Morse control type cable here? Or something else? I had to get a longer cable for my B&M rachet shifter. Control Cable in California. They will make one if you need something special.
Just Google it.

Yeah it's a Morse cable. It melted near the middle and got a bunch of resistance.

Decided to try to fix it myself, got soooo close. But then I melted the inner cable with too much heat to the cable end.

I melted mine and fixed it. Mine spread out like a peacock when the heat melted it . I took it off and heated the area where it spread. Then took lashing wire and wrapped it tight around the affected area like a spring keeping the wraps as close as possible for about a foot. Stopping it from spreading. Then doubled up heavy duty shrink wrap.

The way I kept it from the heat again was I ran it out the passenger side of the hump . Up over the bell and held it against the trans with holders on the bell bolts. I install all of them like that now and never had an issue. Also run it through a good quality heat wrap.

I also have seen the shifters installed backwards and ran the cable from the back front. This is a 4L80 Cable goes through the center of the bench seat, This puts park all the way back.

View attachment 1716493380

That's a nice setup! Always wondered how you could have a race shifter along with a bench.

B&M cables work great with B&M shifters, not sure paired with other brands. Heat resistant sleeve recommended.

Speedmaster has sent me 2 "Hurst" cables but are definitely B&M. The only difference I can see is the hole in the eyelet is larger in the B&M. I made an itty bitty sleeve adapter so I can use either.
I did install heat sleeve after I melted it. Wrong way to do it but I'm good at that.

 

[65TerrorCuda]

I've got a big favor to ask: Does anyone have a loose cable they would check backlash on?

 

[CRUZE 418]

Backlash? I have two mistakes, 5' & 6 ' new cables.

 

[mbaird]

There are 3 different length cables and 2 versions ( Reg and HD) you will need to specify which because they backlash is most likely different for each .

 

[65TerrorCuda]

Backlash? I have two mistakes, 5' & 6 ' new cables.

If you hold one end steady and move the other end in and out, I'm asking how much internal slack is there before you get movement. Hope I made better sense.

There are 3 different length cables and 2 versions ( Reg and HD) you will need to specify which because they backlash is most likely different for each .

These are standard cables, not HD or anything special. 4' or 5' would work.

The Hurst cable is by far the wimpiest looking one at least internally. It's a solid .081" stainless wire but by far the most precise. Maybe melting it made it that way?

All the replacements are a really stiff but thick as hell stranded inner cable. Way way more burly.

 

[CRUZE 418]

I will see if I can get the backlash tomorrow afternoon. Will check both of my cables. I have an 8' ter on my Hemi. I was just a little short with the supplied 5'. The 6' was into the back of the pan, so I went longer, 8' all the way around the front of the pan. I have heat shield on the cable, my headers are so close to everything, I will be surprised if it all works.
It's new, took the 4-speed out. Would be nice if the cable was out the back and regular shift pattern!

 

[65TerrorCuda]

The way I kept it from the heat again was I ran it out the passenger side of the hump . Up over the bell and held it against the trans with holders on the bell bolts. I install all of them like that now and never had an issue. Also run it through a good quality heat wrap.

Already got the clamps and heat wrap as I read about your install in another post. Figure since the trans is out I'll mock it up on the bench so I'm not crawling around so much. Much appreciated!

I will see if I can get the backlash tomorrow afternoon. Will check both of my cables. I have an 8' ter on my Hemi. I was just a little short with the supplied 5'. The 6' was into the back of the pan, so I went longer, 8' all the way around the front of the pan. I have heat shield on the cable, my headers are so close to everything, I will be surprised if it all works.
It's new, took the 4-speed out. Would be nice if the cable was out the back and regular shift pattern!

4 speed manual? I thought about getting a rear exit shifter but don't know how I'd route the cable. Maybe I'm just lazy.

 

[mbaird]

Overheating will make them spongy. Been there .

 

[CRUZE 418]

Probably should start another thread, but what is the answer? I tried going over the top of the bell, that didn't work. This is my first rodeo with this heat issue. So what I am reading here, it won't be if , but when it happens. There is a rear exit shifter available? What does that do to the shift pattern?

 

[CRUZE 418]

Okay, just checked the cables that I have. The 5' cable supplied with my B&M shifter probably has 50 to 60 ths backlash. My Cable Control's 6' er has about 40 to 50. As close as I can check it. At first glance, I didn't think that there was any, but then marked a line and used a vermier caliper. Hope this helps, but does seem that each cable may be different.

 

[65TerrorCuda]

Okay, just checked the cables that I have. The 5' cable supplied with my B&M shifter probably has 50 to 60 ths backlash. My Cable Control's 6' er has about 40 to 50. As close as I can check it. At first glance, I didn't think that there was any, but then marked a line and used a vermier caliper. Hope this helps, but does seem that each cable may be different.

Those are well within spec, if going by what Speedmaster has on their website. They state .015" per foot of cable.
Helps a bunch, thank you! That's how I measured mine too.

Probably should start another thread, but what is the answer? I tried going over the top of the bell, that didn't work. This is my first rodeo with this heat issue. So what I am reading here, it won't be if , but when it happens. There is a rear exit shifter available? What does that do to the shift pattern?

Over the bellhousing is the standard config that Hurst gives in their instructions. No idea how the rear exit works, I can just imagine the cable going near the driveshaft.

The cable really never got hurt until it moved and made contact with the exhaust. Zip ties are crude but kept it from getting worse along with heat wrap.

Got my real B&M cable coming in soon, I'm hoping it's not a total POS like these other ones.

 

[CRUZE 418]

Damn, I tried over the bellhousing, if I remember, the turn into the bracket was just too tight. I will run what I have to see if heat gets to it. If so, maybe altering the bracket a little and a heim joint at the lever will help the angle. Thanks. Hope yours works out too.

 

[65TerrorCuda]

Damn, I tried over the bellhousing, if I remember, the turn into the bracket was just too tight. I will run what I have to see if heat gets to it. If so, maybe altering the bracket a little and a heim joint at the lever will help the angle. Thanks. Hope yours works out too.

Much appreciated. It was functional but not perfect for a bunch of years. The original setup is pretty basic. Share whatever you end up with!

The cable is definitely not ideal. It needs to go forward, make a 180 and come back into the trans without kinking or binding up. I flattened the tunnel pinch weld this time around and will be taking my time with an empty 904 bell to get it tits perfect.

I'm stealing Oldmanmopar's ideas because he already did the research.

And Speedmaster isn't responding to my return requests. Oh boy.

 

[MV8]

These are morse cables. The "slop" is not the cable, but the necessary clearance between the cable and the housing to keep friction and wear reasonable. The clearance is reduced when bending/curving the cable. Check it straight then again looped to see the difference.

The cheap ebay blue cables work fine if long enough. Large radius curves are less friction than small tight curves. More "slop" allows tighter bends to the cable for the same amount of friction.

You can prelube the cable with a motorcycle cable lube tool and aerosol graphite or other lube.

Fire sleeve (silicone coated braided fiberglass tube) works well to insulate from exhaust if not touching it. Size the sleeve based on the largest part of the cable it must fit over. If you need a support under there that won't melt like a zip tie, use a short piece of 12ga steel fence wire.