replacing cam bearings?

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highwaystar

highwaystar

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Well I have a 318 with a few miles on it and I wanted to warm it up with a new cam, lifters, timing chain, and 4 barrel manifold. When I pulled the old cam out the 2nd to last bearing had broke down a bit and was losing some of its shelac or coating? So I feel I should be replacing the bearings as well. The last time I replaced cam bearings a long time ago, I had a piece of threaded rod that reached the back of the block with a couple of washers the size of the bearing to pull them out toward the front of the block. I don't have that now. Do they make a tool, or is there a better way. Looking for some experience from the back yard mechanics.

Thanks for any replys.
 
They make a cam bearing installation tool.That is what I always used.How ever you do them remember to line up the oil holes with the oil passages. Mark
 
A lot of the rental places have a cam bearing installation tool. And you can usually drive out the old and drive in the replacements within the minimum rental time.
 
You know, the engine will have to come out in order to do this.

The cam bearing tool is approx. a $300 tool.
 
Motor is on garage floor currently. $300. I think I will see if I can rent the tool.
There easy to change with the right tool. I will stay away from machine shop for this task.
 
A local shop here charges $120 for the bearing change out. How is it by you?
 
I have to do this same task on my 318...I need an installer as well..I do not want to pay no shop, but I don't wanna spend 300 on the tool either...lol...IS there a way to make one? OR possibly if anyone on the site has one, could we borrow it and of course I'd pay to use it.....
 
My cam installation tools are $200. toolman
 
i paid 40.00 for hot take and install my bearings. and hone job.

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So I went to the local advanced auto parts, they don't rent the tool. I went to my local chivy machine shop. $30.00 plus bearings and rear cap for $2.00. Great that is cheap enough. He says bring him the bare block? I said why. He says you can not line up the oiling hole with the hole in the bearing unless the crank is out. What?? It's in plain view with the intake off. He was giving me 350 this 383.440 this. The end result; He won't do it unless the crank is out. Am I missing something???
 
Now, this is real shade tree; did it on buddy's 400 GTO, 1968 model. Cam and dissy went out on the way home from work ( Jax to Gainesville, Fl)
Pulled the engine. Pulled the cam. Found a pvc pipe that was close fit. Knocked out the front cam bearing, drilled a hole in the pvc, put a nail in it, then proceeded to drive out the rest of the bearings, using the next old bearing as the driver.
Installed the new bearings the same way. Last I heard, after he lost his license over that car, it was still screaming (heard next owner lost his too).
 
Hey, that works. Seems very clever. I got a tool from my local Ford guy tonight. It seems Ford cam bearings are different sizes. It had 10-12 presses in it, but none the right size. It was a real old set in a wooden box. I have a good friend tonight that is going to hook me up with a real Mopar tool tomorrow. Mopar friends rule....
 
highwaystar said:
So I went to the local advanced auto parts, they don't rent the tool. I went to my local chivy machine shop. $30.00 plus bearings and rear cap for $2.00. Great that is cheap enough. He says bring him the bare block? I said why. He says you can not line up the oiling hole with the hole in the bearing unless the crank is out. What?? It's in plain view with the intake off. He was giving me 350 this 383.440 this. The end result; He won't do it unless the crank is out. Am I missing something???
Click to expand...

Yes you are missing something, sorry to say. Just because the bearings are visible with the intake off doesn't mean squat. The problem is when you slip the bearing onto the installation collar and place it in the block you can no longer see the oil hole very well so he's right that the engine needs to be taken apart to do it correctly. This hole were talking about aligning is only about 1/8" diameter and I can tell you by experience (I've installed numerous cam bearings) aligning the oil holes isn't as easy as it sounds. Even with the engine apart you have to be careful to get the holes aligned. I even go as far as making sure all 3 holes are aligned because several blocks I've seen aren't drilled perfect so you have to do a little compromise to get all 3 holes aligned as close as you can. This applies to LA engines of course as Magnum blocks don't use the upper holes to send oil to the top.
 
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