Replacing Center Link

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gtxdude

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Just got car back from shop, they recommend replacing center link. Any recommendations on where to get one? 65 Dart with 318. Thanks
 
Just got car back from shop, they recommend replacing center link. Any recommendations on where to get one? 65 Dart with 318. Thanks
We can't be sure they know the difference, idler arm or center link. Wheres the rack? I think center link vary straight or drop in early A. Good luck
 
Car has some flex (binding) on both sides at pitman & idler. Everything else has been replaced over the years except that. They said it's not the box, that was my main concern
 
Car has some flex (binding) on both sides at pitman & idler. Everything else has been replaced over the years except that. They said it's not the box, that was my main concern
It sounds like the idler arm and/or pitman arm may need to be replaced. The centerlink is just a hunk of solid bar with some holes in it and is likely fine. If the shop can't tell you exactly what it needs, get a new shop.
 
The center link is a solid steel bar with tapered holes in it. There's nothing to wear out. Find a new shop.
 
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The centre link is a solid steel bar with tapered holes in it. There's nothing to wear out. Find a new shop.

Agree... if it were a slant link, it would hit the pan. If the link is inverted, (ends flipped so taper is wrong way) would it have that similar effect the OP described?
 
Agree... if it were a slant link, it would hit the pan. If the link is inverted, (ends flipped so taper is wrong way) would it have that similar effect the OP described?
Sometimes. They don't always hit. I had one that did not. It depends on which pan and which mounts.
 

If the link is inverted, (ends flipped so taper is wrong way) would it have that similar effect the OP described?

You can't put them on upside down unless the tapers have been bored through. With the center link taper upside down the pitman and idler would bottom out almost immediately, and then you don't have any threads sticking out to put a nut on.
 
If the center link is hitting the oil pan either it's a slant 6 center link or the wrong oil pan for an early A body or another possibility is a bent center link. Sounds like you got mixed match parts. A 65 would not have originally had a 318, it would have had a slant 6 or a 273 V8.
 
Car has some flex (binding) on both sides at pitman & idler. Everything else has been replaced over the years except that. They said it's not the box, that was my main concern

our dart had something binding after replacing everything in the front end. drove me nuts for a while. ended up being a brand new moog lower ball joint causing the problem.. not sure how a Center line would cause binding being its a solid piece of metal..
 
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our dart had something binding after replacing everything in the front end. drove me nuts for a while. ended up being a brand new moog lower ball joint causing the problem.. not sure how a Center line would cause binding being its a solid piece of metal..
Rubbing the oil pan due to miss matched parts.
 
our dart had something binding after replacing everything in the front end. drove me nuts for a while. ended up being a brand new moog lower ball joint causing the problem.. not sure how a Center line would cause binding being its a solid piece of metal..

This!

New does not necessarily mean “good”, especially with Moog.
 
You can't put them on upside down unless the tapers have been bored through. With the center link taper upside down the pitman and idler would bottom out almost immediately, and then you don't have any threads sticking out to put a nut on.
I should clarify. Not upside down... left/ right swapped. It'll fit... Ask me how I know :lol:
 
That mystery answered. I've had the Dart 13 years, the guy I bought it from had it 7 years. He bought it at the Iola car show from the guy who converted it from a /6 to V8. Turns out he never switched the center link to V8 one. It worked but steering always felt a little wonky. Have new link in much more clearance and no rubbing oil pan. We'll see how much difference it makes. And there's pictures :)

20251004_154401.jpg


20251004_154411.jpg
 
Looks like you got that squared away. You might also want to tuck those transmission cooling lines up a bit to prevent any rubbing on them. There actually is supposed to be a bracket to hold them in place that mounts right there at the block to bell housing brace. What is that round washer looking tab sticking down from the bell housing?
 
Looks like you got that squared away. You might also want to tuck those transmission cooling lines up a bit to prevent any rubbing on them. There actually is supposed to be a bracket to hold them in place that mounts right there at the block to bell housing brace. What is that round washer looking tab sticking down from the bell housing?
I had to go out and look at tranny, I lost the bolts some time back and when I went to put cover back on I used some bolts that have the washer attached, it works :) I have the bracket somewhere for lines, should look for it. Thanks for input
 
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