markfh
Well-Known Member
Is there a good option to do this without drilling holes in my stock #'s matching survivor? Want to keep it original looking as possible.
Replacing dual points but in stock distributor
- Thread starter markfh
- Start date
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67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Say?? whut?? You trying to MODIFY a single point dist. for dual points? Not gonna happen. There "may have been" an add on aftermarket dual point plate back in the day.
You need to sober up LOL, and take another look at this. Maybe go breakerless. Or just FIND an old Prestolite dual point dist.
You need to sober up LOL, and take another look at this. Maybe go breakerless. Or just FIND an old Prestolite dual point dist.
markfh
Well-Known Member
Maybe you didn't understand. I HAVE a stock dual point in my 68 GTS. I'm asking if there's something I can use, that's not junk, internally in the stock distributor that will work.
Define exactly what you are trying to do just change the points?
I think he wants to do a Pertronix-style conversion.
markfh
Well-Known Member
Replace the points with something electronic without changing the outward appearance of the stock distributor or drilling holes.
Actually I am lost there is no hole drilling with that either.
markfh
Well-Known Member
Saw those. Are they any good? Are they reliable?
Petronix unit will do it perfectly but will have tow wires that you can black heat shrink to make look almost stock. Mounts in the points screw holes. I do them a lot for customers.
Very reliable except for the III version seems to have failures more often.
markfh
Well-Known Member
Got a specific recommendation?
Thanks for the info.
I like the Petronix I myself usually around 130 on amazon. Make sure you get the right one for the distributor number.
Why getting rid of the points just curious. Remember you will need another coil and jump the ballast resistor also they need 12VDC.
markfh
Well-Known Member
Just looking for options if I decide to dump the points.
The dual point is a great system I would leave it alone unless you are racing with FI. Points last 10000 miles on the average just get good old stock ones, new ones suck low spring tension and condensers have a high failure rate.
well, after reading the articles in this site, I finally got it right I call Pertronix because their Email doesn't seem to work and voiced that with my phone call, HOWEVER the sales person was nice to deal with !!! This kit does not have a magnetic stator but uses the factory points cam to trigger the module .
well no one seemed to post pics so here they are
well no one seemed to post pics so here they are
Been there, done that, never again!!
https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/2695208/pertronix-iii-problems.html
Jim
https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/2695208/pertronix-iii-problems.html
Jim
pishta
I know I'm right....
Id be interested in seeing a scope read on those lobes as triggers. Id think they would be pretty sloppy as a trigger due to their shape. Probably 'good enough' but a proper toothed reluctor would be easy to slide on and not alter the original appearance.
j par
Well-hung Member
I put those on all brands of customers cars. Points are just ridiculous at this day and age in my opinion...
An excellent read on a poorly engineered system. Chrysler designed the reluctor and the pickup on their ignition systems to have a sharp on/off signal to the ECM. It works very well, and for a long time in my experience. A plastic bushing being tugged on by the vac. advance unit will change the .008'' gap. Not good.
n
Yes the III have issues for sure. Most of them com with a wheel that goes over the cam plate and it is a sharp signal on my scopes. Guess I never had to do one that comes of the points lobe. Bad design if you ask me rounded corners on the lobe and also most of them are worn down also.
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