Replacing Gaskets on 90 degree oil filter adapter

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68Dart270

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Hi,I just joined this site. I have a 1968 Dart with a 273 engine. Its leaking from the 90 degree adapter. I bought a new gasket kit online,supposedly the best kit available with felpro gaskets and a copper washer for under the bolt. I wanted to ask advice here before I do this today. Any tips on doing this? I was told by the seller of the gaskets that no gaskets sealer should be used on any of the gaskets,but read other discussions where people were saying to use gasgacinch,permatex,etc. I definetly dont want it to leak again. What do you guys think? Also how much oil is going to leak out when I pull the adapter off? Does the bolt usually come out easily? Thanks in advance for any help you offer.
 
No sealer is what I recommend. Some oil will leak out. That is to be expected. Your oil is in the bottom of the oil pan so it won't all run out.

oil filter adapter gaskets.jpeg
 
Thank you. I bought one of thise plastic razor blade scrapers in case I have to scrape the old gaskets off. I didnt want to risk nicking the metal and giving any chance of leaks. Sure hope this goes smoothly. The only issue I can see is maybe clearance getting the ratchet in there
 
Take off the filter first and most of the oil will come out. Some more will come form this being removed.

Don't use any sealer.

Everything is machined cast iron so it will be flat, and it is tough material. You can use a real razor blade with no problems. Problems arise quickly from those gasket remover abrasive wheels on a power tool.

Use a box wrench it might work better.
 
Thank you. I bought one of thise plastic razor blade scrapers in case I have to scrape the old gaskets off. I didnt want to risk nicking the metal and giving any chance of leaks. Sure hope this goes smoothly. The only issue I can see is maybe clearance getting the ratchet in there
Double check the bolt for twisting . It is hollow and the oil flows through it. They can be damaged from overtightening.
 
i generally use a little hi-tack to stick the housing gasket on the block, but other than that everything goes together dry.

the fel-pro kit used to come with a call out for the torque on it at 40 ft/lb, i believe the FSM calls 50 on it.

personally i'd sit it at 40~45

mark a line on the housing and block so that you can easily line up the housing in the same spot on reassembly
 
Double check the bolt for twisting . It is hollow and the oil flows through it. They can be damaged from overtightening.
Thanks. I doubt its ever been removed before. Hopefully the previous owner didnt try tightening the bolt down ans bend it like you mentioned. How common is it for the bolt to be damaged? Now im wondering if I buy anotjer bolt so if has been damaged I am able to put it back together right away.
 
i generally use a little hi-tack to stick the housing gasket on the block, but other than that everything goes together dry.

the fel-pro kit used to come with a call out for the torque on it at 40 ft/lb, i believe the FSM calls 50 on it.

personally i'd sit it at 40~45

mark a line on the housing and block so that you can easily line up the housing in the same spot on reassembly
Thanks. I believe youre correct about the torque. I have one of those click style torque wrenches. Definetly dont want to ruined the bolt like the other guy mentioned. I was thinking the same thing about the large gasket. I wasn't sure if there was a recess in the side of the block where that gasket would go or if it needed to be held up with gasket cinch or something
 
My original snapped around 25 ft*lbs, man was I pissed. It's grade 8 now but I still tighten it with fear.
Great! Now youre making me rethink doing tbis until I have another bolt just in case. It definetly needs ro go back together so it can be moved out of the garage.
Can any of you guys tell me who makes the best replacement bolt for these of something happens?
Will the bolt head size still be the same? I bought the correct size socket for the factory bolt.
 
Don't worry too much about the bolt, just dig into it and see what you have.

There are two styles of bolts with different oil holes, one type is worse for twisting.

You don't have a socket set with all the sizes? What size socket did you buy for this job?
 
Great! Now youre making me rethink doing tbis until I have another bolt just in case. It definetly needs ro go back together so it can be moved out of the garage.
Can any of you guys tell me who makes the best replacement bolt for these of something happens?
Will the bolt head size still be the same? I bought the correct size socket for the factory bolt.

moparmorrow64 on ebay has the bolts, although i'm not sure if they sell them separately from the gaskets any longer. but they do have both the long and the short bolts.
 

If it's an old 273, thinking that the bolt head is 3/4". Doubt that the body will be twisted at the hole area.
 
Don't worry too much about the bolt, just dig into it and see what you have.

There are two styles of bolts with different oil holes, one type is worse for twisting.

You don't have a socket set with all the sizes? What size socket did you buy for this job?
The bolt head is 1 3/16"s. I have lots of sockets but not that size so I had to buy one. The hardware stores didnt even have that size socket. Finally found one in stock at an auto parts store.
 
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moparmorrow64 on ebay has the bolts, although i'm not sure if they sell them separately from the gaskets any longer. but they do have both the long and the short bolts.
Thanks,appreciate the tip. Hopefully mine wont get twisted or damaged. Put off doing it today due to winds kicking up.
 
Don't know if it was mentioned above (I never read all the responses)
I like to do the Annealing process on copper washers. They seal better.
 
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