Replacing upholstery

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1930

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Not to take anything away from any interior guys but I just ordered new seat upholstery kits, I know they come all presewn so is it safe to assume since I dont need any foam or metal work the only thing I need to do is remove the old covers, slip over the new ones and hog ring them down?

Any tips would be appreciated, maybe laying them in the sun first?
 
Take your time and pay particular attention to aligning the covers to the frames during the ringing process. Its not a bad job if you have some patience.
Sun warmed covers does make it much easier.
 
I remember someone said to place a garbage bag over the foam so it slides on easier. Never tried it myself but good luck.
 
My dad just did the bench in our 71 Val with his new found retirement time. He said warm sun, check your alignment on the seams on the backs and bottom. But other than that he said it was easy.
 
I remember someone said to place a garbage bag over the foam so it slides on easier. Never tried it myself but good luck.
Yes, this works good.
You have to pull the plastic out once the cover is slipped all the way on or the cover will squirm around wrinkle.
 
................ so is it safe to assume since I dont need any foam or metal work the only thing I need to do is remove the old covers, slip over the new ones and hog ring them down? ................

If you are going over old foam that's been covered since the late '60s, the covers will probably almost slide right on. You may not be happy with how the new covers fill out as another member mentioned in post #2 mguner above added the link.
Check videos at PUI and on the net..........
Tech Tips @ Parts Unlimited

I took several digital pictures of "how it was" as I was taking these apart cause I have CRS and I wanted some reference how to replace. I didn't count but the hog rings were around 50-60 or so per seat.
Straight pliers that I had bought from the local HF would have been more difficult to work with compared to these............

PROF HOG RING PLIERS ANGLED HEAD + 100 HOG RINGS C.S. OSBORNE MADE IN U.S.A.

These bend rings into a triangular shape where as the originals were more round.

My seat bottoms had loose weld nuts for the seat back hinge bolts, some surface rust, and a lot of sharp edges. The backs were OK.
Sun, trash bags, and several Quick Grip plastic spring clamps were used along with a few expletives especially when I cut my finger on an edge.
Make sure you center the bottom covers as best as possible from front to rear. I actually attached the seat backs onto the finished seat bottoms to make sure the cover seams (backs and bottoms) lined up and marked center location before ringing them.

Take your time. If it's impossible it just takes longer!
 
Usually the bottom foam buns are dry rotted as are the burlap pads. Plan on replacing both. Put the steel bolsters into the burlap like the originals had if you want them to perform like the originals. Plus silicone spray on the back bun will allow you to slip on the cover without the trash bag trick.
 
If you have a lot of wrinkles in your vinyl seats when you are done, just rent a regular steamer, it will remove those wrinkles with no problems. If you have LEATHER seats THIS WILL NOT WORK.
 
Silicone is your friend but if you have to bag the foam use drycleaner bags they are much nicer to use and you don`t need to tear them out as they won`t make any noise. As was said earlier careful attention should be paid to the seats. If that burlap is rotted and it almost assuridly is fix it first otherwise you are just throwing good money after bad. A little steam on the foam will help return it to its original shape and make the covers fit tighter and look nicer. Lay the covers in the sun inside a car outside with the windows up, that heat will soften the vinyl but keep the hair dryer nearby for a bit more help. Just remember warm vinyl is more likely to tear so treat it accordingly. Don`t be afraid to beat the crap out of it with a flat hand if its on but not quite where you want it, a little slapping around will help move it where you want it without taking it off and starting over which can lead to a trip to the upholsters for a bit of a repair to the stitching. Take your time theres no race here line everything up and go slow and think about your next move before you screw it up and regret not going slowly. Good luck and lets see some pics when you are done
 
Go to Legendary Auto Interiors and watch their install videos, They are very helpful showing how to roll covers and which corners to start with so you don't tear seams or miss trim where seat backs attach to base. They make a great product and you can see how the check your cushion material to see if its good enough to use or you need to add a little extra cushion. Hope that helps.
 
Wish I had a nickel for every car I saw on ebay with "new legendary seat covers" in description along with pictures of a very poor install. If you don't have to fight, stretch, and pull the skins to get hog rings to reach, you aint going to achieve a OEM fit and finish.
Factory workers had a pnuematic press that came down from overhead compressing the frame and foam. Much less labor required. My substitute press was a length of 2x8 with son and daughter-in-law standing on it. Perfect finish.
 
I installed a seat skin on my decent foam and the seams never were straight. I took it off, installed it inside out from the top and rolled it on like a jimmy. Got the seams straight. Boot camp teaches you to put a pillow case on the same way....
 
Thanks for all the tips, Ill get it done sure enough, Id like to say before I die I tried everything automotive repair related at least once.
 
at the very least cut and install new burlap and original thickness foam (or a bit thicker than original).You will be using 4 letter words and badmouthing me for following such stupid advice during the installation.Go Slow!
After the install you will be thanking me for the nice tight fit w / no wrinkles.
 
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