Right angle oil filter adapter

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Just finished putting headers on the sons car put the right anlgle adapter on and had an oil leak. Am wondering am I supposd to take the plate off that the filter used to mount too or mount the right angle adapter to it?
 
I pulled the plate and put the adapter on, cranked it and the oil light came on, I know it needs a gauge, just thought maybe this was part of the problem. the oil light ahs never came on before.
 
I had a very similar problem recently. As scary as it is to crank down on the bolt that holds the adapter on, you may just need to tweek it a little more.
Be carefull though you don't want to break the bolt off!
 
when you remove the adaptor, you've added a bunch of air into the system..Not a big deal, it only should take a senond or two to come back. If you're that nervous, then pull hte spark plugs, and use a wrench or screwdriver to jump the fender relay. Spin the engine that way for a 20 seconds or so, then put the plugs back in and fire it with the key. (your battery and starter need to be in good shape)
 
I used a little RTV (black) on both sides of the large gasket that goes between the block and adapter. Clean both surfaces with disc brake cleaner first. No run, no drips, no errors! make sure you have the angle right when you tighten the bolt. With the RTV, if you try to move the next day, you will break the seal..

The cork and the fibre gaskets for the mounting bolt...are they new? You didn't say where it leaked. I assume at the block.

Jim

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dont use any sealer on oil presssure system gaskets. They wil leak. both surfaces must be surgically clean, and no grease or oil, that includes from your fingers/skin. Make sure you have the right ones, there is one on the housing to block, and a smaller one for the bolt to adaptor.
 
I got the right angle adapters on all my 340's but they are the cast ones.

I wouldn't have the alum. ones to many problems specially if torqed to much they spread thats just me on my cars.

also I follow the fsm on the torq to little/much you got a leak also I don't use the fiber gasket under the bolt head I use a copper or alum. gasket and never had any leaks.
 
NiceFishEh said:
I used a little RTV (black) on both sides of the large gasket that goes between the block and adapter. Clean both surfaces with disc brake cleaner first. No run, no drips, no errors! make sure you have the angle right when you tighten the bolt. With the RTV, if you try to move the next day, you will break the seal..

The cork and the fibre gaskets for the mounting bolt...are they new? You didn't say where it leaked. I assume at the block.

Jim
Kinda off the topic.....But I love the Tee Shirt Jim :toothy10:

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Fixed the oil leak it was on the block, but the loss of oil pressure is still there. Yeah all the gaskets were new, it was a MP aluminum adapter new from Mancini. The oil light is still on, Ill tinker with it tomorrow. Still working on the 3 inch exhaust too. Thanks for all the input
 
I am rebuilding an 82 318 for my 1966 Barracuda, and I noticed that it also has that "plate" on the block and I need to add the right angle adapter. How do I remove that "plate" and the threaded bolt that is on there?

Thanks,

John
 
I don't see any where that a ratchet would work on this? Here is a pic of what I am dealing with. How do I remove the threaded bolt, and the plate (or do I leave that plate on there?) so that I can bolt on the right angle adapter?

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You know..this is proof that a picture is worth a thousand words....when I posted the pictures, I actually LOOKED at the pictures and I see that the 3/8 will fit INSIDE the threaded bolt!!!

What a morning I tell ya.....
 
You must use either the adaptor OR the plate, but not both.
You can't bolt both on, anyway.

Mark.

I was able to bolt the right angle adapter and the plate on at the same time, but I still don't feel certain about the way I installed the adapter. How is it done (detail to detail).

1. Remove original oil filter and adapter nut.
2. ??Remove Plate and original rubber gasket that goes between the block and the plate??
3. Attach adapter to block using the bolt and the proper gaskets included (as shown in the directions to the adapter).
4. Attach oil filter and go play.

All I did was take the oil filter and the adapter nut off and attached the adapter right on top of the plate. My sandwich looks like the block, then the rubber gasket, then the plate, the thin paper gasket (included with adapter kit), and finally the adapter.

I have searched all over and gotten 10 different answers from 10 different people. I need to know the right way to install it.

Thanks in Advance,
Brian
 
The original plate that was there needs to come out. The original screw on filter holder has a 3/8 square drive that comes out with a 3/8 extension. The plate is held in by that, may take a little prying to break the seal loose. If you noticed the surface area is recessed and the angle adapter sits down flush on that with the large gasket then the bolt goes on with it's fiber gasket. As stated before, make sure it's clean.....been running one for two years with no issues. Yes it's the aluminum after market type. I would think you have some serious flow/pressure issues with the plate and adapter in there, What is your pressure at idle and driving?
 
What you are saying is that it should have no plate with the adapter installed? It did not leak before and got good oil pressure, but that was just the oil filter and plate. I installed the adapter so I could change the oil and filter without loosening the passenger side header. The motor has not been installed into my car yet, so I have no way to check for leaks and pressure with the adapter on there.
 
I have heard that some guys run a 4 cyclinder filter to give them the room they need. If you change oil often it should be OK. I am also installing a right angle and the the threaded pipe sticking out on mine doesn't appear to have a 3/8 square hole in it either. I will check tomorrow :walk:Walt
 
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