Ritter Dyno Mule

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There can be a lot of variation even in the tolerances of new parts being produced, let alone something that's been beat on for 100,00 miles.
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Okay.
Offer TWO part numbers. The right one, and one for a bad crank.
They don't wanna do that, so anybody with a GOOD crank has to deal with a balancer for a bad crank......
Some of us actually prefer to have parts made undersized so we CAN make them a perfect fit to our application.
 
This how my last one came off, from my builder. We did 5 great gen-2 hemi engines, then my SBM was an absolute horror-show. We no longer have communications between us. I'm spending 10K to repair the **** caused from whatever his reason for the terrible assembly.

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Very similar experience here with a local engine building legend in Circle Track.....I absolutely hated seeing his engines come in with an ATI damper on because I knew his shop and equipment well....and he did not have the capability or maybe the knowledge of having to hone the ATIs especially.....I have no idea how he got them on....but I have to use heat and F the hub and have broken my dampener pullers and spent up to 2 hrs getting the bastards off! Oddly enough the cranks are almost always cracked when my crank guy Magnaglows them. J.Rob
 
All the hemi engines, have zero issues and ATI balancers.. He just stuck it in my *** on the SBM for some reason. [lots of issues] Was a good friend for 25-30 years.
 
Honing a steel hub damper to the correct fit is the proper way and the only type of balancer that should be used in a high performance engine is one that needs honed to fit. Aluminum hubs can be put in boiling water and put on but still should be honed for the proper interference fit. Too big and it will literally weld itself to the crank, too small and it and the crank and thrust bearings can be damaged during install as well as being extremely hard to get back off. Any engine builder worth a sh*t knows this for a fact as there have been numerous engineering studies and reports on dampers. Read the instructions on any of the good aftermarket dampers for the correct dimensions you need for that particular damper.
 
Who’s oil pan?

What’s that elbow on the right down low?
The oil pan is a kevco, semi-custom design. The elbows are for external oil drain from the cylinder heads. The ritter block doesn't really have enough oil return path for a conventional wet sump setup in my opinion. Also we wanted to eliminate as much windage as reasonably possible.
 
The oil pan is a kevco, semi-custom design. The elbows are for external oil drain from the cylinder heads. The ritter block doesn't really have enough oil return path for a conventional wet sump setup in my opinion. Also we wanted to eliminate as much windage as reasonably possible.

does the ritter have a 1/2" pickup orifice?
 

seems that at 7am i'm barely awake and stupid.. and by 4pm i'm wore out from work and stupid.... starting to think time of the day has nothing to do with it :)
 
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