Rod Bearings are Done :(

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well its sitting on the stand right now until I take it to the shop. With paint on it, so It should be fine until I take in and have it tanked. Then I will paint and assemble it and clean it with the brush kit
 
so have we found out why there was antifreeze in the oil before we get to far ahead of ourselves ?
 
Polish or turn crank, All new bearings, Hot tank, Clean motor(soap and water, brushes,sponge with rough green side on cylinders, Paint motor, oil on walls, New oil pump, new pick up, clean oil pan, assemble.
 
74Burntorange said:
ya go back like 15 threads, It was when I was changing the intake and didnt use the cork end gaskets.
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what does not using the cork end gaskets have to do with the water in the motor? most guys don't use the cork end gaskets, am i missing something?
 
IF you read it you will see what it says, but it seems like your not willing to look, so...Water was leaking from the ports into the motor. Thats how water got into the oil. Once I used the gaskets, no more water in engine. I dont care what others do because without them it leaked and with, it did not.
 
shoot...If the rod journals need to be turned..I think might just get a remaned. crank and in that case I would need to have everything rebalanced correct? OR should I just have it turned? Which would have the crank at .010 on the mains and .020 on the rods
 
74Burntorange said:
shoot...If the rod journals need to be turned..I think might just get a remaned. crank and in that case I would need to have everything rebalanced correct? OR should I just have it turned? Which would have the crank at .010 on the mains and .020 on the rods
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why would you get a reman? just turn the damn thing and be done with it...
 
Kid - Just to clarify, a hot tank is a big tank that is just shy of boiling, full of a caustic slution taht will eat off paint, grease, etc, and most loose rust. A jet-washer is the stand-up cabinet with a turntable and jets. That uses (usually) much more environmentally friendly cleanig solution (at least here in CT) and is the closets thing to a final wash you can get. My old shop would hot tank, then airless shot, then jet-wash. Then machine.

No engine should be assembled without a good thorough hand washing with engine cleaning brushes and soapy water. Blow all passages dry with compressed air, then you know it's clean.

74 - f you had the crank balanced before, a reman crank will need the same work, but your shop should be able to do it as they will already have the records for the bob weights. It shouldnt cost much, but it needs to be done.
 
74Burntorange said:
IF you read it you will see what it says, but it seems like your not willing to look, so...Water was leaking from the ports into the motor. Thats how water got into the oil. Once I used the gaskets, no more water in engine. I dont care what others do because without them it leaked and with, it did not.
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Did you forget to tighten the intake bolts? the cork rail gaskets don't seal water ports.
 
moper said:
Kid - Just to clarify, a hot tank is a big tank that is just shy of boiling, full of a caustic slution taht will eat off paint, grease, etc, and most loose rust. A jet-washer is the stand-up cabinet with a turntable and jets. That uses (usually) much more environmentally friendly cleanig solution (at least here in CT) and is the closets thing to a final wash you can get. My old shop would hot tank, then airless shot, then jet-wash. Then machine.

No engine should be assembled without a good thorough hand washing with engine cleaning brushes and soapy water. Blow all passages dry with compressed air, then you know it's clean.

74 - f you had the crank balanced before, a reman crank will need the same work, but your shop should be able to do it as they will already have the records for the bob weights. It shouldnt cost much, but it needs to be done.
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your right! i brain fartd! still was trying to make the point that it needs a good final clean as im sure we both agree
 
toolmanmike said:
The rods and mains both oil through the crank. It needs both replaced and the crank pulled and checked. With metal chunks and shavings running through the engine, I would take it all apart and start over. Either the clearances were'nt right or there was dirt/shavings where they didn't belong. How was the engine assembled? Did a machine shop do it or were parts just purchased and assembled?
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Apparently burntorange didn't want to hear what I had to say.The whole thing needs to be disassembled and done right. It is obvious to me that something wasn't machined properly, the wrong parts were used, or proper cleaning wasn't done. He can fix it however he sees fit but he asked for suggestions and got them. The oil pressure/ bearing problem was possibly caused by the antifreeze problem but why that happened is still a mystery! toolmanmike Good luck burnt.
 
toolmanmike said:
Apparently burntorange didn't want to hear what I had to say.The whole thing needs to be disassembled and done right. It is obvious to me that something wasn't machined properly, the wrong parts were used, or proper cleaning wasn't done. He can fix it however he sees fit but he asked for suggestions and got them. The oil pressure/ bearing problem was possibly caused by the antifreeze problem but why that happened is still a mystery! toolmanmike Good luck burnt.
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Want to hear? If you read 4 post up...It says the motor is apart..Will be washed by the shop and by me. All new bearings.. The rod problem was either the machinist or the anti freeze. I check the clearances when it was put together and they were stock specked. Why is it a mystery why there was antifreeze..? Your not going to get a long explanation on how it got in there. I told you what I did and fixed it. Once again I dont care if others dont put the end gaskets and their fine. Mine on that day and the other 3 times did not seal until I put the end gaskets. And yes all the bolts were tight.


The point of this thread was to show that I did have reason to worry about my oil pressure and to ask what I should do..not to play CLUE and find out how the anti freeze killed only my rod bearings...

Everything is apart and will be cleaned twice, with new bearings and the specs will be checked again after is done.
 
How do the cylinder and rings look? If your pulling it down that far and taking it to the machine shop, it might be a good idea to have it honed and put new rings in it.
 
moturbopar said:
How do the cylinder and rings look? If your pulling it down that far and taking it to the machine shop, it might be a good idea to have it honed and put new rings in it.
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They look the same as when I first put them together. The rings look good also.
 
No harm..no foul burnt. Just trying to get to the root of your problem and over the net is hard. I would hate to see you do this project all over again and an have it happen the second time. toolman
 
74Burntorange said:
Want to hear? If you read 4 post up...It says the motor is apart..Will be washed by the shop and by me. All new bearings.. The rod problem was either the machinist or the anti freeze. I check the clearances when it was put together and they were stock specked. Why is it a mystery why there was antifreeze..? Your not going to get a long explanation on how it got in there. I told you what I did and fixed it. Once again I dont care if others dont put the end gaskets and their fine. Mine on that day and the other 3 times did not seal until I put the end gaskets. And yes all the bolts were tight.


The point of this thread was to show that I did have reason to worry about my oil pressure and to ask what I should do..not to play CLUE and find out how the anti freeze killed only my rod bearings...

Everything is apart and will be cleaned twice, with new bearings and the specs will be checked again after is done.
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being you have a list of all the hi-po things done to your car/ motor, stock specs could be a problem... if you rev this thing at all you want .002-.003 on the mains and rods, get them to tight and you can spin a bearing...
 
805moparkid said:
being you have a list of all the hi-po things done to your car/ motor, stock specs could be a problem... if you rev this thing at all you want .002-.003 on the mains and rods, get them to tight and you can spin a bearing...
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I dont think it would be a problem, the guys said it was ok. The mains are good, but I will have it checked out
 
74Burntorange said:
show me where it shows that...
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right here in an original 1965 Plymouth Service manual... it shows these numbers from everything from a slant to a 426... i bought it myself when i was 15 (just got my belvedere) and have read it back to front more times than every other book ive ever read combined...

its a really good idea to open the mains and rods to .002-.003 to protect your self from spinning a bearing...
 

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I dont see where it says for a 360.. I was asking you to show me where it was, instead of taken word from someone that I have no history with. What I told you is guys like moper and crak and so on said my bearings were fine when I told them what they were. If you want to say they were to tight, do a little research and find out what I did them at, their in one of my topics for the first time with this motor. I believe they were at what u listed.
 
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