Rod Bearings are Done :(

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"ok so I plastigauged the main and it came out to .002in maybe a little smaller using the green plastigauge. How does this sound?"

"Ok I checked the number 1 cylinder and it looks like it came out to .0015
on the fattest part becasue the little piece slid back a little when i turned the stand to tighten the bolts. But I guess this is good?

ps there was also a piece that came off and stuck to the cap which meausred .002 but looked like it dident really get squezed good so
I believe .0015 is what its at" Because I know you wouldnt look. I told you I did it correctly. IT was the antifreeze or the crank was not ground correctly. I didnt start this thread to discuss something I know. I started it to show what happened and what I should do about the mains.
 
74Burntorange said:
"ok so I plastigauged the main and it came out to .002in maybe a little smaller using the green plastigauge. How does this sound?"

"Ok I checked the number 1 cylinder and it looks like it came out to .0015
on the fattest part becasue the little piece slid back a little when i turned the stand to tighten the bolts. But I guess this is good?

ps there was also a piece that came off and stuck to the cap which meausred .002 but looked like it dident really get squezed good so
I believe .0015 is what its at" Because I know you wouldnt look. I told you I did it correctly. IT was the antifreeze or the crank was not ground correctly. I didnt start this thread to discuss something I know. I started it to show what happened and what I should do about the mains.
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re-read my post and i said you might run into problems... didn't say you left bolts loose, or what ever...

and to think im going to go look thru all your posts to maybe see if you posted the clearance you got is the most ridiculous thing ive ever heard...


later... im sorry i help people some times...:naka:
 
74Burntorange said:
"ok so I plastigauged the main and it came out to .002in maybe a little smaller using the green plastigauge. How does this sound?"

"Ok I checked the number 1 cylinder and it looks like it came out to .0015
on the fattest part becasue the little piece slid back a little when i turned the stand to tighten the bolts. But I guess this is good?

ps there was also a piece that came off and stuck to the cap which meausred .002 but looked like it dident really get squezed good so
I believe .0015 is what its at" Because I know you wouldnt look. I told you I did it correctly. IT was the antifreeze or the crank was not ground correctly. I didnt start this thread to discuss something I know. I started it to show what happened and what I should do about the mains.
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where did the antifreeze come from if the intake was tight the first time?
 
EL5DEMON340 said:
where did the antifreeze come from if the intake was tight the first time?
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Im pretty sure I said I changed the cam and used gaskets that did not have the corked ends. Got antifreeze in the oil from the coolant ports in the manifold. it was even leaking down the side of the heads from the intake. Once I finally put the corked gaskets on. IT was fine.:thumbrig:
 
805moparkid said:
re-read my post and i said you might run into problems... didn't say you left bolts loose, or what ever...

and to think im going to go look thru all your posts to maybe see if you posted the clearance you got is the most ridiculous thing ive ever heard...


later... im sorry i help people some times...:naka:
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1. the bolts loose was not towards you...
2. Dont question me about knowing what my clearances are about "being to tight" Ive asked before, I know what their suppose to be.

Thanks for the tips...All I asked for was should I replace the mains...and then everyone came in adding stuff too do, which I was going to do, besides the cam bearings.

Late:wave:
 
Now i understand where the water came from, yep you need the cork end gaskets to seal the intake. Sounds like your ready to clean her up get the new parts in and fire her up!! good luck\\:D/
 
I think, if it was me, I'd have the crank measured with a micromoeter. The reason being.. You had an issue, and it's entirely possible there's enough taper on the journal to make it junk, even tho it has "clearance" as indicated by the plastigage. PLastigage is a crutch, a better than nothing deal. It is not a great way to actually see what the clearance and journal are like. You can also get a cheaper set of micrometers online if you need to. But I wouldnt trust the lower end to plastigage knowing you had bearing issues. Just my opinion of course.:D
 
moper said:
I think, if it was me, I'd have the crank measured with a micromoeter. The reason being.. You had an issue, and it's entirely possible there's enough taper on the journal to make it junk, even tho it has "clearance" as indicated by the plastigage. PLastigage is a crutch, a better than nothing deal. It is not a great way to actually see what the clearance and journal are like. You can also get a cheaper set of micrometers online if you need to. But I wouldnt trust the lower end to plastigage knowing you had bearing issues. Just my opinion of course. :D
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lol and i am, I found a guy who is a mopar guy who is going to remove everything from the motor...oil plugs and freeze...wash...then use the brushes and wash again...then install my bearings and Im going to have some one check my crank out also.
 
I think that's a really wise choice. I had a balancer failure last year and it cost me a fourtune tearing it all down and starting over again. It happens.
 
I hate finding out crap like that, sucks when you have to spend $$$$ on stuff you were not expecting.
 
ya and I have the money for a stroker kit which I was going to use to port the heads and rebuild the front end, but I dont think I want the added cost of the oil pan and hv pump and clearancing and balancing and so on. So I will stick with my stock stroke.
 
Have you found where the metal came from?It looks to be a chunk in the pictures.
 
74Burntorange said:
ya and I have the money for a stroker kit which I was going to use to port the heads and rebuild the front end, but I dont think I want the added cost of the oil pan and hv pump and clearancing and balancing and so on. So I will stick with my stock stroke.
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Yep, I think being able to drive straight down the road would be a good thing! Heck even if you didnt port the heads, its going to be a pretty healthy engine!
 
dano said:
Have you found where the metal came from?It looks to be a chunk in the pictures.
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I believe that chunk is from the rod bearings. The mains look fine, the cam is good, even the cam bearings looked fine.
 
1wild&crazyguy said:
mr gasket sells brush kit for galleys.

soap and water, rough side of sponge on bores, checking cleanliness with paper towel, then wd-40 finish

I motor oil the bores just before installing pistons.

if it its gona sit for a while, use cosmoline.
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i used to dunk the pistons in a coffee can full of oil,but i have heard builders say its not good to do that.
 
update on the crank...It was able to be polished out and the machinist said it looked really good.
 
bad440 said:
i used to dunk the pistons in a coffee can full of oil,but i have heard builders say its not good to do that.
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Too much could be a problem with contaminating the mix, or just filming up the ports.


I just wipe some oil in the bore, and after piston rings are installed in the lands I wd-40 the rings.
On the other hand I've done the whole with wd-40 on the bore/rings with no issue.

Btw I've done the piston dipping trick before with no issue.


I also use motor oil on the bearings.....unless the engine sits a while...even then a priming while rotating the crank takes care of that.
 
Yup. I assemble the pistons and rods, oil on the pin, WD40 on the bore and rings. With the proper bore finish, that's all you need and the rings will seat almost instantly. On the bearings, I use assembly lube and a few drops of straight 30. Always prelube the engine with a priming shaft.
 
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