Roll cage install with a question

[blue missile]

I just bent the main hoop and it looks a little narrow. It could just be my perception. The bottom of the two main verticals are as far as they can go without making a shelf at the wire tray level do these measurements look right?
Andrew

 

[YoungBlood]

Visually, it would help if it was snugged closer to the inner door and headliner.

Is it being mounted to the floor with plate? Might be worth the re-do and 'shelf' you refer to.

Still, you made one at home. Not the easiest job.

 

[Drag]

i would get it as close as you can then bend the plates to the floor my last cage i did the main hoop was lass then 3/8 inch from each side

 

[blue missile]

Drag,
I dont think I want to get that close and get rid of the wire trays I installed one on the passengers side as well. I also really hate wasting $50 worth of tubing.Nothing is welded in place yet so Im still flexible.The other thing is this cage WILL have a removable horiz bar. So it will only partially comply to some sanctions rules and not the others.
Andrew

 

[DartOS]

Looks fine. If you intend on using original seats, door arm rest, ect leave the main hoop where it is. If you bend the hoop out any more you can forget arm rest and inside door handles.

 

[blue missile]

Thanks for the reply's.
DartO ...you dont know me very well do you? original anything is not in the plan!
I did rebend a new hoop 3" wider 1" taller with an offset at the bottom. Fits great, now I can continue with the cage.
Andrew

 

[daredevil]

That hoop looks great. You should save the pattern. Others may be interested in those.

 

[t-granger]

Thanks for the reply's.
DartO ...you dont know me very well do you? original anything is not in the plan!

No that is funny..

 

[blue missile]

Thanks for the kudos guys,
In the mean time I did get the removable mid-bar done before I had to quit. Pardon the welds I didn't realize the wire speed had gotten bumped to 55, Ill grind out some and put a second attractive pass on top.And throw some gussets under the attachment points tomorrow.
Andrew

 

[green1]

If I remember correctly, those bolts need a sleeve, for NHRA.

 

[Purple Haze]

Should have used something like this.

http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/ID-Tube-Clamp_p_1467.html

 

[inkjunkie]

Visually, it would help if it was snugged closer to the inner door and headliner.

Is it being mounted to the floor with plate? Might be worth the re-do and 'shelf' you refer to.

Still, you made one at home. Not the easiest job.

NHRA wants 6"x6" plates I believe. Saw something somewhere in the NHRA book that no grinding on the welds allowed....I think

 

[blue missile]

Ink
The SSC refers to the Not How Russians Assemble hand book and it states 36 square inches per plate. I will abide and the no grinding refers to the final pass. So in essence you are correct.The SSC also says you cant paint the roll cage, Yeah that will happen! I tried to maintain the alloy marks but they came off with just the handling of the tubes! It is what it is ,I have the receipt for the tubing.
Andrew

 

[inkjunkie]

Ink
The SSC refers to the Not How Russians Assemble hand book and it states 36 square inches per plate. I will abide and the no grinding refers to the final pass. So in essence you are correct.The SSC also says you cant paint the roll cage, Yeah that will happen! I tried to maintain the alloy marks but they came off with just the handling of the tubes! It is what it is ,I have the receipt for the tubing.
Andrew

I have not read the book in a while. Hell, I do not even know where it is. I just remember the plate thing because I had a conversation with my fab guy about it. The cage in my car has not been teched yet, but will be soon. The siderails were done to swing out in the Dart. When he welded it all up he ground the welds on the sidebar, up near the top of the door. I hope it is not going to be a problem. The couplers that someone else mentioned are pretty slick. Seen them used in an off road truck that went on its lid at 50+ mph and the joint help together. Are you going to run snout bars and a bar in or under the dash? The last picture you posted of the main hoop looks great. Before you put it in your ride you might want to make a jig for it, in case someone else wants one.

 

[blue missile]

Ink,
Thanks,
I do have a CAD drawing and the measurements for the index points. No problem to reproduce. I do appreciate the NHRA rules but I have no intention of Racing the car at a track. The silver state classic has its own rule book, which I have a copy of. There are some features of the cage that are in no rule book. Ill keep posting the progress, hopefully it will help or inspire someone.
OH yeah Purple at $37 ea not a chance.
Andrew

 

[blue missile]

Here is todays progress, I have the main hoop installed with all of the gussets and plates along with the center bar for the retractable 4 point seatbelts.
Andrew

 

[Fishthatkills]

Looking good Mr. I bet it's like really hot doing all that work huh? Welding in 103 plus heat, no fun! The new weight loss program!

John B.
A.k.a. Fishthatkills

 

[blue missile]

Thanks John,
This is where I was for the Cabella's thing. As far as the heat goes you could always come over and fan me with a palm leaf:mrgreen:
Andrew

 

[Burntorange70]

Looking good Blue.

 

[blue missile]

Here is the latest progress. I have the front bars in. next are the rear bars that go into the trunk.
As far as the heat goes I dont notice the heat but it is convenient to just put the bars in place and watch them fuze themselves together.
Andrew

 

[blue missile]

more progress on the roll cage, I got the rear bars in place as tight to the corner as possible. I still have the sheet metal to patch and fill for fire proofing. Now that the cage is stable I also have to build the triangulation bars from the removable horizontal bar.
Andrew