rookie need advice swapping 7.25 for 8.75 posi

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screeminDemon

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Bearing questions and adjustments: I need to know the basics (thanks for your help!)

1) I have a-body housing which I removed old axles with roller bearings and purchased new ones with green bearings installed. Can I install these myself? Do I remove the end-play adjustment collar or how do I adjust end-play?

2) I bought a 3.91 sure grip pumpkin (PS - what can I spray on it to clean up the gears?). Do I need to remove the axle buttons? How?

3) Do I need replace the seals inside the housing? Can I do it myself or take to machine shop? They look and feel ok but I dunno...

4) Any critical adjustments I need to be aware of?
 
Bearing questions and adjustments: I need to know the basics (thanks for your help!)

1) I have a-body housing which I removed old axles with roller bearings and purchased new ones with green bearings installed. Can I install these myself?

Yes.

Do I remove the end-play adjustment collar or how do I adjust end-play?

No need to adjust axle end play with the green bearings.

2) I bought a 3.91 sure grip pumpkin (PS - what can I spray on it to clean up the gears?).

Some kind of degreaser should be OK. Unless they are horribly dirty and have dirt or chunky material, it would probably be OK the way it is.

Do I need to remove the axle buttons?

Some say yes, some say no. I have always read that you should remove the thrust button / block whatever the case may be.

How?

It depends on which suregrip you have, the clutch type being the easier one. Post and let us know.

3) Do I need replace the seals inside the housing? Can I do it myself or take to machine shop?

I would replace / install new ones where you can.

They look and feel ok but I dunno...

4) Any critical adjustments I need to be aware of?

There shouldn't be as long as you don't disturb the third member itself.

Now, which third member do you have, 741, 742 or 489? Which suregrip center do you have, clutch or cone?

You will also need larger U bolts. And when you get to the emergency brake cable, you will most likely need to loosen the adjustment in the cable under the car. The 8 3/4 has larger brakes. I had to on mine when I did the swap, I got one side hooked up and couldn't get the other side hooked. Loosening the cable will give you the extra length you need.
 
Thanks for weighin in Badsport!

My casing is either 741 or 742 I forget... I know its not the one that everybody prefers. I'm 99% sure the posi is the clutch type, not cone.

PS - thanks for the tip about the e brake cable. I was aware of the need for bigger U bolts... Should be able to get them at local parts store right?

I'm hoping to put this together without having to pay machine shop but not sure about the seals inside the housing... How hard are they to replace myself? or should I say: How likely am I to destroy them with my Macguyver methods?

And the end-play adjustment collar... Should I not put that back on?

Last question (thanks so much for your time!): I want to order new leafs to get some extra lift for the 10" mags I'm gonna put on it. Any recommendations?
 
Not sure if you know this but isnt the driveshaft different as well?

72 has a point, you will most likely have to have the driveshaft shortened and balanced. Find a reputable driveline shop in your area.

Check your yoke on the 8 3/4 for fitment of the current U joint you have..
 
Thanks for weighin in Badsport!

My casing is either 741 or 742 I forget... I know its not the one that everybody prefers. I'm 99% sure the posi is the clutch type, not cone.

If it's the clutch type there will be two thrust buttons held in by a pin (sorta looks like a nail) just pop it out with a small punch. The thrust buttons will just fall out at that point.

IF it's the cone type the unit must be disassembled to remove the thrust block. This is where it's critical to mark and measure tolerances before taking it apart.

I was aware of the need for bigger U bolts... Should be able to get them at local parts store right?

Yes, try and get grade 8 U bolts if you can.

I'm hoping to put this together without having to pay machine shop but not sure about the seals inside the housing... How hard are they to replace myself? or should I say: How likely am I to destroy them with my Macguyver methods?

Not hard at all. What I do is use a piece of conduit and go in from one side and pop the old seal on the opposite side out, reverse order for the other side. There are other ways. When you install the new seal put some grease on the backside of the seal (where the spring is, this will help keep the spring in place while you're tapping the new seal in) and find something in the same diameter of the housing and gently hammer it home. There is a ridge (stop) inside the axle tube the seal needs to come to rest on it. Take a look inside the tube before you pop the old ones out just for a reference point.

And the end-play adjustment collar... Should I not put that back on?

No need for it. But I would hang on to it and the little lock tab that's with it.

Last question (thanks so much for your time!): I want to order new leafs to get some extra lift for the 10" mags I'm gonna put on it. Any recommendations?

I'm considering swapping springs at some point myself I have been thinking the Espo XHD. But I'm not 100% sure yet.

It really depends what you're going to do with the car as far as spring choice.

http://www.springsnthings.com/leaf-springs
 
Not sure if you know this but isnt the driveshaft different as well?

Yes I was aware, but thanks for weighin in!

PS - Do you know how to remove the thrust buttons in 3rd member (since I'm installing green bearings? I think I wore out Badsport with all my questions...
 

oops, looks like I didnt wear out Badsport yet after all! You're beautiful Badsport! You've given me exactly the info I need! Thanks a million!
 
One thing I forgot to add, when you install the axles lightly tape a piece of newspaper to the spline end covering the splines, as snug as you can get it. Then reach in through the third member opening and pull it off before you install the chunk.

This will protect the new seals you put in.. Sometimes the splines can nick or cut the rubber on the seal.
 
Bwahahaha, I wish I could convince myself of that when I look in the mirror, LMAO.
QUOTE]

LOL!
Anyways I think your awesome bcause your the guy who ultimately convinced me to go with a TQ on my 360 last year. Not sure if you remember. I love the TQ! Love it
 
LOL!
Anyways I think your awesome bcause your the guy who ultimately convinced me to go with a TQ on my 360 last year. Not sure if you remember. I love the TQ! Love it.

When built and tuned right you can't beat em for an all around street carb.
 
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