Routing neutral safety/reverse light wires on b&m pro stick

-

skep419

5.9 Magnum 4 speed afficionado
Joined
Sep 18, 2008
Messages
5,961
Reaction score
5,096
Location
Minesoooota
can’t seem to get the cover to fit. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
9471EE00-0872-4A03-BCD4-1F806EFFB370.jpeg

2AC0DB13-2CAC-4A58-AA72-4409363EFBD5.jpeg

C4B5EDA0-8CCB-4EE6-B074-9A420A031F9D.jpeg

467B869D-7258-48B6-9CDC-A829BC4C418C.jpeg
 
Well a good ten years ago I moved the battery to the trunk and used the micro switch neutral safety/reverse light switches on the shifter. Removed wires from the firewall connector.

I have since moved the battery back to the engine bay and used the ford starter solenoid that was used in the trunk.

It shouldn’t be that hard to wire it back up using the transmission nss.

Pretty sure there are a few different switches depending on the rooster comb. The switch that is currently being used more as a plug with broken pins is not oe for the transmission.

Going to have to do some research.

Thanks

839ECD2B-CDAC-4F88-B185-EC07187F8BD8.jpeg

Looks like I need one of these for starters. (Mine is grounded through the case)
 
Last edited:
The problem you have IF YOU DON'T have the original Mopar starter relay, is that the Mopar NSS (on transmission) grounds when activated, where your shifter switch is isolated.

You have choices:

1...Figure out how to continue using the shifter mounted switch
2...Use the Mopar and re-install a Mopar start relay
3...If you really want a "Ford style" there is a "Ford style" AMC / Jeep relay that has a 5th post.......for the Mopar grounding neutral switch

The 5th terminal sticks out the other side:

amcrelay.jpg
 
Option 1 continue using shifter mounted switch. Can’t use cover. Kinda looks like crap but it works. Cost= free

Option 2 use the factory relay. Replace tons of wiring new battery cables,etc. stud not long enough for all the connectors I have going to it. Cost= great

Option 3 replace ford solenoid with isolated unit that has a ground terminal. Cost cheap and able to use factory nss.

9A098C32-ED41-4C8E-B72F-9C1F96416358.png

27670D15-BD66-4A7C-8A5D-B6546D480FF8.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Moparts on the Web - Main Index

Here's a pic of the single wire N/S switches. The one on the right was used on all pushbutton transmissions from '55-'64 and has an all metal contact button.
The one on the left was used on the '64 console shift and all '65-'68. The metal contact is surrounded by plastic.
nssw01.jpg

nssw04.jpg


The four switches used in the TF. The two at right are interchangeable if the proper wire connector is used.
nssw02.jpg


Here are the internal levers used with the various switches.
nssw03.jpg


The 3 pin switches are for the later model (68 and later) cars and trucks.

The 2 outter pins are for the back up lights and the center pin is for the safety switch.

There is a cupped rubber covered metal gasket that seals the switch, no O ring. The P/N is 2408123.
 
As it turns out I have the long 3 wire neutral safety switch and a short switch connector :poke:
 
So what is it you are asking? The NSS is the CENTER terminal and it goes to ground. The two outer terminals are reverse lights. The single post is 68/ earlier, which had reverse lights on the column shifter or console shifter.
 
Wasn’t really asking anything just blabbering about my progress. I thought I had the wrong connector for a NSS I had laying around. Turns out it was really hard rubber. Heated it up with a torch and it slipped right on.
Thanks for all the help.
 
Ford solenoid is gone
F69B0AB0-BD2A-4C74-AAEA-C5DAF22D6B81.jpeg


I have to pick up some heat shrink tubing for the positive cable end. After that I’ll be able to tie down the wires.

1F770E7B-1580-461F-A6C3-DABFABB6619F.jpeg

164523C8-E1FE-4E40-A560-A35A698701FB.jpeg


The used to have a quicksilver tucked under the factory console. Going to have to find something to cover up the carpet.
CDADD745-D5FC-458B-AEB2-F0922CA9C726.jpeg

E94B62C5-33DE-4A78-AC72-7FC6390BB120.jpeg
 
B2C4951E-21FA-4417-9320-11DDADFD7207.jpeg


Was going to bolt the shifter cover on but the bolts I welded in are to long. (Going to have to cut them off later)
Zip ties for now.
E9E2245C-88C5-4FE8-995D-8006E42493CE.jpeg

77DDB8F3-5CBA-4A2A-8611-D765B266D6FB.jpeg
 
-
Back
Top