Rural king (farmers fleet) motor oil.

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dartfreak75

Restore it, Dont part it!
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I was at the local rural king it like a tractor supply farmers store if there isnt one in your area. And I looked at the motor oil because I need a oil change in my everyday day driver. I got a 5 quart jug of sae 5w-20 for 8.69 and a motor craft oil filter for 4.99. That's less than 15 bucks for a oil change not counting the Lucas oil treatment I always add. It's a modern motor so I'm not to worried about zinc. That's a great price! Beats the heck out of the Castrol gtx I normally run. Do yall think my engine is gonna blow up tomorrow? Lol
 
Well, one of the petroleum companies makes it. Rural King doesn't have a refinery, I'm pretty sure, lol. So it's Citgo, Conoco, etc etc. Probably be fine. The fact that you are changing it is good.
 
A family friend of ours ran stock cars for years. Told me he tried pennzoil, valvoline, gtx,etc, and the local fleet farm cheap *** oil. The cheap stuff always had less sludge and less wear when he would tear the engine down.
 
Well, one of the petroleum companies makes it. Rural King doesn't have a refinery, I'm pretty sure, lol. So it's Citgo, Conoco, etc etc. Probably be fine. The fact that you are changing it is good.
Yea I have never bought into the name brand hypes. Oil is oil. It all is probably made I the same place. I have use to run haveline because I was a Davey Allison fan when I was a kid lol then about 10 years ago a coworker told me that Castrol will reduce oil leaks so for the last 10 years or so I have ran it. But in my old 85 dodge 318 It leaked and burned so much I used the cheapest 40w I could find whatever was on sale. I ran the cheap walmart kmart brand whatever was cheaper. But I went thru about 2 to 3 quarts between oil changes. I never had a bit of trouble out of that engine hell it outlasted the rest of the truck. I am pretty diligent about oil changes but in the last couple years of that truck I got to the point were I would just change the filter every 3000 miles as much oil as I added I to it I didnt see the point in draining it. It was always new Haha. My 2001 ram was about as bad until I change the plenum gasket and switched to 20w40 after that it quite using all together. It's the same as my 85 the engine outlasted the truck.
 
A family friend of ours ran stock cars for years. Told me he tried pennzoil, valvoline, gtx,etc, and the local fleet farm cheap *** oil. The cheap stuff always had less sludge and less wear when he would tear the engine down.
Interesting. Plus, I think it's less expensive because they don't pay for tv advertising and Nascar sponsorships.
 
A family friend of ours ran stock cars for years. Told me he tried pennzoil, valvoline, gtx,etc, and the local fleet farm cheap *** oil. The cheap stuff always had less sludge and less wear when he would tear the engine down.
That's good to know. Thanks
 
Yea I have never bought into the name brand hypes. Oil is oil. It all is probably made I the same place. I have use to run haveline because I was a Davey Allison fan when I was a kid lol then about 10 years ago a coworker told me that Castrol will reduce oil leaks so for the last 10 years or so I have ran it. But in my old 85 dodge 318 It leaked and burned so much I used the cheapest 40w I could find whatever was on sale. I ran the cheap walmart kmart brand whatever was cheaper. But I went thru about 2 to 3 quarts between oil changes. I never had a bit of trouble out of that engine hell it outlasted the rest of the truck. I am pretty diligent about oil changes but in the last couple years of that truck I got to the point were I would just change the filter every 3000 miles as much oil as I added I to it I didnt see the point in draining it. It was always new Haha. My 2001 ram was about as bad until I change the plenum gasket and switched to 20w40 after that it quite using all together. It's the same as my 85 the engine outlasted the truck.
Haha, a buddy in highschool had a old Cheby truck with a straight 6 that leaked and burned gallons of oil. Got his oil from a local gas station. Used. Filtered it through old t-shirts. Price was right.
 
As long as it is SAE certified...it’s perfectly fine. Price doesn’t necessarily equal quality when it comes to motor oil. But SAE certification does.
 
Haha, a buddy in highschool had a old Cheby truck with a straight 6 that leaked and burned gallons of oil. Got his oil from a local gas station. Used. Filtered it through old t-shirts. Price was right.
I had a 85 jeep with a 2.8 liter and it leaked oil but nothing major when I drove it. It had over 200k miles on it when I sold it. I sold it to an older lady at work and it sprung a really bad rear main seal leak. She would put catch pan under it in the parking lot at work and then pour the oil back in when we got off ! Lol she told me that she drove it from here in va to ohio every weekend to see her grandkids. I wouldn't have trusted it that far but it never broke on her.
 
I had a 85 jeep with a 2.8 liter and it leaked oil but nothing major when I drove it. It had over 200k miles on it when I sold it. I sold it to an older lady at work and it sprung a really bad rear main seal leak. She would put catch pan under it in the parking lot at work and then pour the oil back in when we got off ! Lol she told me that she drove it from here in va to ohio every weekend to see her grandkids. I wouldn't have trusted it that far but it never broke on her.
Recyclying. We were green before it was cool!
 
We had a pick-a-part that sold jugs of drained coolant as well as 5G paint buckets of oil. Not sure if that was legal as I dont see it offered anymore. But changing oil on a leaker/user, whats the point? Just change filters....had a few myself but it burned it.
 
We had a travelling salesman that came around a few times a year. He put in the cheapest oil he could get. He said he never got less than 400,000 kilometres out of a motor. Kim
 
As long as it is SAE certified...it’s perfectly fine. Price doesn’t necessarily equal quality when it comes to motor oil. But SAE certification does.

THIS ^^^ is all you need to know.
 
We had a pick-a-part that sold jugs of drained coolant as well as 5G paint buckets of oil. Not sure if that was legal as I dont see it offered anymore. But changing oil on a leaker/user, whats the point? Just change filters....had a few myself but it burned it.
Yep that's exactly what I did in my 85 just changed the filter the oil was constantly getting replaced anyway.
 
I was at the local rural king it like a tractor supply farmers store if there isnt one in your area. And I looked at the motor oil because I need a oil change in my everyday day driver. I got a 5 quart jug of sae 5w-20 for 8.69 and a motor craft oil filter for 4.99. That's less than 15 bucks for a oil change not counting the Lucas oil treatment I always add. It's a modern motor so I'm not to worried about zinc. That's a great price! Beats the heck out of the Castrol gtx I normally run. Do yall think my engine is gonna blow up tomorrow? Lol

You won't blow up tomorrow, but you took a pretty good thing, cheap oil and decent filter, and kind of messed it up by using an expensive additive. What is in the Lucas that you need in your oil? If you're going to spend the money on Lucas, why not just buy better oil? Additives can upset the balance of oil by introducing compounds into the oil that weren't planned for by the engineers who came up with the oil formulation in the first place. Additives are mostly only good for solving a problem. Find an oil that already has what you want in it. There are a lot of choices.

Oil is oil.
No, it's not. There can be a big difference between the cheap stuff and the premiums. The difference will show up in the extremes. Extreme temperatures, extreme pressures, extreme drain interval. BUT, that doesn't mean you need it, or that you can't do well with the cheap stuff.

It all is probably made I the same place.
Not even close. There are a limited number of base oil producers, but that number isn't exactly small. The number of blenders and packagers is quite substantial. The blenders buy the components for their oil on the open market, and are susceptible to availability of those ingredients. If they seem to be cagy about revealing what is in their products, they aren't necessarily just guarding trade secrets. They may not say because it changes depending on what's available to fit their production schedule.

Some of the best deals for cheap oil are Wal Mart and Napa house brands. 5 quarts of full synthetic for $15 of so. It will cost a little more than you spent, but it's a lot better. You can get Mopar filters at Wally's and Wix at Napa in the form of their Gold line.

I'm not trying to pick on you, but I spent a career in the motor oil business, and wanted to help clear things up, and maybe help you to make good choices in the future.
 
I swear by RK brand batteries.

They're made by Exide, my favorite battery brand.

Just bought one for my riding mower- $29 and is 100 more cranking amps than the wal-mart one I paid $40 for 3 years ago.

They are also capable of beating HF on some prices as well, like LED trailer lights.

They're also a Quincy compressor retailer.
 
Change it at 5000, change the filter at 3000, buy cheap Supertech synthetic at Walmart for $19 bucks a jug, you'll never have a oil related problem. Unless it takes 6 years, and 6 winters worth of condensation and acid to get the 5000!
 
You won't blow up tomorrow, but you took a pretty good thing, cheap oil and decent filter, and kind of messed it up by using an expensive additive. What is in the Lucas that you need in your oil? If you're going to spend the money on Lucas, why not just buy better oil? Additives can upset the balance of oil by introducing compounds into the oil that weren't planned for by the engineers who came up with the oil formulation in the first place. Additives are mostly only good for solving a problem. Find an oil that already has what you want in it. There are a lot of choices.


No, it's not. There can be a big difference between the cheap stuff and the premiums. The difference will show up in the extremes. Extreme temperatures, extreme pressures, extreme drain interval. BUT, that doesn't mean you need it, or that you can't do well with the cheap stuff.


Not even close. There are a limited number of base oil producers, but that number isn't exactly small. The number of blenders and packagers is quite substantial. The blenders buy the components for their oil on the open market, and are susceptible to availability of those ingredients. If they seem to be cagy about revealing what is in their products, they aren't necessarily just guarding trade secrets. They may not say because it changes depending on what's available to fit their production schedule.

Some of the best deals for cheap oil are Wal Mart and Napa house brands. 5 quarts of full synthetic for $15 of so. It will cost a little more than you spent, but it's a lot better. You can get Mopar filters at Wally's and Wix at Napa in the form of their Gold line.

I'm not trying to pick on you, but I spent a career in the motor oil business, and wanted to help clear things up, and maybe help you to make good choices in the future.
I have always added Lucas even when I run Castrol oil it had nothing to do with adding it because i bought cheap oil. Napa or autozone cant remember which one had a bogo deal a while back so I bought a whole case I have it so why not use it?
I use mopar filters in my dodges this particular vehicle is a 4.6 liter ford so I went with a motor craft I used frams for years in this vehicle until I watched a video posted on here about the cut open filters omg I couldn't believe how chetty frams are!!
 
I swear by RK brand batteries.

They're made by Exide, my favorite battery brand.

Just bought one for my riding mower- $29 and is 100 more cranking amps than the wal-mart one I paid $40 for 3 years ago.

They are also capable of beating HF on some prices as well, like LED trailer lights.

They're also a Quincy compressor retailer.
That is funny that you mentioned this because I was looking at rk batteries last night too for my dart! I was planning on starting a thread asking about them lol. I found one if it will fit I'm gonna try it it's a 550 cca for 46 bucks they have them in various sizes I'm not sure what size abody takes? I saw they had like a 24f 60 and a 24r 60 and some other sizes I'm not sure what i need tho.
They have a 12 month replacement warranty and a 60 month prorated warranty! That's pretty darn good for a 46 dollar battery.
 
That is funny that you mentioned this because I was looking at rk batteries last night too for my dart! I was planning on starting a thread asking about them lol. I found one if it will fit I'm gonna try it it's a 550 cca for 46 bucks they have them in various sizes I'm not sure what size abody takes? I saw they had like a 24f 60 and a 24r 60 and some other sizes I'm not sure what i need tho.
They have a 12 month replacement warranty and a 60 month prorated warranty! That's pretty darn good for a 46 dollar battery.
550 cca ain't gonna cut it for that beast you're building. :poke:
 
You really don't think so? Heck I dont think my truck has much more than that and it's got power everything .
Aren't you doing like 12 to 1 compression?

Just yanking your chain. I think 1 cca to 1 cubic inch is normal. But I wouldn't try that.
 
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