Rust Converter

[Shorty Thompson]

What's your " Go-To " rust converter? I watched Steve Dulcich off RoadKill Garage reworking the roof on a 70ish Plymouth Duster. Rusty, very rusty. He removed the rust then wiped it down with REM Rust Mort,,,,,? Let me know what y'all use and why? What's your experiances been with it and with others.

 

[RustyRatRod]

I like a good thick coat of Rustoleum oil based industrial paint followed by a good quality epoxy primer and then paint.

 

[Bodyperson]

I like a good thick coat of Rustoleum oil based industrial paint followed by a good quality epoxy primer and then paint.

I like this approach. Do you sand the oil based paint before the additional coats? Off course no approach works if the rust is scaling.

 

[RustyRatRod]

I like this approach. Do you sand the oil based paint before the additional coats? Off course no approach works if the rust is scaling.

Yes. Wire brush on a grinder works great for scaly rust. In fact, the Rustoleum instructions says you can go right over surface rust, but I don't like doing that.

 

[Murray]

POR-15.

 

[Hyper_pak]

I looked up the SEM product.
What bugs me is that they always want you to rinse with water.
Rinsing bare metal with water seems.....wrong, at least to me.

 

[OneOfMany]

If you are looking for a quick job, yeah a oil based paint is adequate. The drawback is it is cut with varsol which is a slow evaporating solvent. It is slow to dry, and when dry can be easily attacked with hotter solvents such as those used in automotive epoxy, primers and finish coat.

Using SEM or other brand converters is best. Use a scotchbrite to work the product in. The phosphoric acid will convert the rust making it inert. Make sure all red turns to black, and it is done. Let it sit for a day, then repeat if necessary. After all is good, wipe down with wet rags to remove the film. Then dry. Clean with a wax and grease remover, then epoxy primer. You can leave the epoxy primer for years, but if you want to body filler, prime, paint either do so in it's window (most about a week) or if longer, scuff it down.

 

[barbee6043]

Some epoxy primers require you to neutralize the phosphoric acid ( I let sit for 24 hrs) and than apply another wet solution, and hit that with water to neutralize it before it DRIES! Use air to dry it before flash rust. I hit that with scotch brite. Then I will wipe down with a wax/grease remover. I use epoxy over that as it will stick to anything. Like said above RustOleum dries different, and slow. But is extremely durable and a good sealer on Floors. On the exterior, I use only automotive primers/paints.
20 years ago, or more, I cleaned off a bad hood, used Ospho (phosphoric acid solution) and applied a good coat of RustOleum as a TEST< A week so later, I tried to DA if off with 80 grits, I gave up, tough stuff.
I find I have better luck with Epoxy primer on bare metal, then urethane primers. If it will sit.

 

[OneOfMany]

I agree on need to neutralize. It is easier when solution is wet. Key is to ensure all residue is removed

 

[mbaird]

I have some rectangular tubes I want to protect the inside of before I weld them up .
How would you go about that?

 

[Dana67Dart]

there are these products BUT some are flammable and talk about don't weld on the panel after application

Search results for: 'internal frame coating'

 

[TT5.9mag]

I used Eastwood rust encapsulator recently. Worked great.

On heavier rust I like to neutralize it first and I like the rustoleum gel rust converter. You brush off the heavy scale and spray it on, I use a cheap paint brush to move it around and work it in. It turns the rust black and stops it from spreading. To neutralize it says to rinse with water but I wipe it a few times with a water soaked rag. Blow it dry quickly then prime.

 

[TT5.9mag]

I have some rectangular tubes I want to protect the inside of before I weld them up .
How would you go about that?

Weld through primer.

 

[mbaird]

Weld through primer.

Will it adhere to the bare metal and prevent further rust ? Hard to find metals that haven’t been exposed to moisture in some form .

 

[ch1ll]

I was unhappy with the performance of POR-15.

 

[TT5.9mag]

Will it adhere to the bare metal and prevent further rust ? Hard to find metals that haven’t been exposed to moisture in some form .

It will adhere to bear metal, it’s a primer. It definitely is not a rust converter or any type of chemical process, but as a primer it works well and will prevent future rust. Also when you weld, it flows out and into places spraying won’t get. If you have rust inside the tube, get rid of it first then prime.

 

[mbaird]

It will adhere to bear metal, it’s a primer. It definitely is not a rust converter or any type of chemical process, but as a primer it works well and will prevent future rust. Also when you weld, it flows out and into places spraying won’t get. If you have rust inside the tube, get rid of it first then prime.

I have and use weld primer but the tubing has some flash rust inside. The question is how to treat it . It’s 3x1” tube …. I guess i could use my buddies sand blaster . Or just leave it because it will be 30 years before it rusts thru .

 

[RustyRatRod]

I was unhappy with the performance of POR-15.

I cannot agree more strongly.

 

[barbee6043]

I cannot agree more strongly.

People swear by it. I used it once when it first came out what 3 decades ago? My first and last time. Over priced, I can do the same and better with epoxy primer, any single stage Urethane or RustOleum on bottom of car and floor pans. JMHO

 

[RustyRatRod]

People swear by it. I used it once when it first came out what 3 decades ago? My first and last time. Over priced, I can do the same and better with epoxy primer, any single stage Urethane or RustOleum on bottom of car and floor pans. JMHO

"I" am NOT one of them. It's messy, runny and literally gets everywhere. Plus, it must be top coated or UV light will break it down......even UNDER a car. Not to mention the co$t. Nope, not this honky.

 

[barbee6043]

"I" am NOT one of them. It's messy, runny and literally gets everywhere. Plus, it must be top coated or UV light will break it down......even UNDER a car. Not to mention the co$t. Nope, not this honky.

Yea, but its gotta be "better" look how much it COSTS!!!!

 

[mopowers]

Neutralizing acid-based rust converters is not as big of a deal as some people make it out to. Simply rinsing the part with plain ol' water before the treated part dries is plenty adequate.

For large part soaks, look into citric acid. Dirt cheap and does a great job.

 

[Shorty Thompson]

I used Eastwood rust encapsulator recently. Worked great.

On heavier rust I like to neutralize it first and I like the rustoleum gel rust converter. You brush off the heavy scale and spray it on, I use a cheap paint brush to move it around and work it in. It turns the rust black and stops it from spreading. To neutralize it says to rinse with water but I wipe it a few times with a water soaked rag. Blow it dry quickly then prime.

I have got some of that, but I don't know if age hurts it opr not. I also don't know if cold temps then hot temps makes it act up or differently during aplication.

 

[Shorty Thompson]

Reading every comment. Keep them coming and THANKS!!!!!!!!

 

[harrisonm]

What's your " Go-To " rust converter? I watched Steve Dulcich off RoadKill Garage reworking the roof on a 70ish Plymouth Duster. Rusty, very rusty. He removed the rust then wiped it down with REM Rust Mort,,,,,? Let me know what y'all use and why? What's your experiances been with it and with others.

There are a lot of rust treatment products available some are paints like POR 15 that say they will stop the rust dead in its tracks and can be painted over. I have used POR 15 in the past with good results. I usually use it for places like the inside of a door on the bottom after I use a rust converter.
However, the Op asked about rust converters, so that is what I will address. I have never used REM Rust Mort. I have used several kinds over the years, but I like the TP Tools brand rust converter. There is also a Rust Kutter brand available from Amazon. The rust converters work by converting the rust to a Phosphate. They contain Phosphoric acid. That is why you MUST wear gloves and eye protection. First you want to get rid of all dents as much as possible with hammer and dolly. Then you get rid of loose rust with a wire brush and/or sandpaper. Then blow off the area and clean it thoroughly (I use lacquer thinner). Then apply the converter carefully. I use a disposable bristle brush. Don't use a foam brush. Then allow at least 24 hours to dry. If it is cool or high humidity, it could take a few days to dry. You will usually have a light chalky white covering over the black converted rust. I clean the surface with a damp rag, then I hit it lightly with 320 dry sandpaper. Heavy surface rust may need two applications. Then I spray the area with Epoxy Primer. Then I lightly block sand the epoxy primer with 320 to find the places that will need a little filler. After the filler is applied and expertly sanded, apply high build primer. There will be 20 people with 20 different ways to do it, but this has worked very well for me for a long time. I have never had surface rust come back.