Rust Never Sleeps

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dustermaniac

dustermaniac

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Well I went outside to wash my car and as I was washing the drivers side Quarter Panel, I noticed a thumbprint sized chip in the paint at the rear of the quarter panel behind the marker light. The body has started to bubble in this area and now this chip fell out and I can see through to the back side of the quarter panel. Rusted and probably more rust behind the paint that I cannot see. I will be ordering new replacement Quarter skins soon. Anyone out here know of which ones are the best quality/fit? I am looking to cut out these old original quarters and mig in new full skins. Any recomendations?????
 
I think the best quality is possibly going to be Auto Metal Direct (AMD), but also the most expensive. I bought Goodmark skins, Mine were pretty good but Ive heard other people haven't had as good of luck as I did with mine.
 
Are you sure you want to braze the panel in dustermanic? That creats excessive heat which will warp the panel. I would tack weld, or even the new epoxy I heard works quite well.

Just my 2cents.

Its a bummer that happened but good luck with it.
 
I was wondering about that Epoxy that has recently come on the market. Anyone out here ever use it????? I am kind of leery to try an epoxy to hold on a quarter skin. I think over time that the epoxy would fail due to temperature changes/humidity? I meant to say mig weld in my quarters, not braze. Typo, sorry. it just sucks that 4 years after paying a body guy over 3K to do the body/paint on this car I now am finding out he cut corners on the work. Oh Well live and learn. That's why I am just replacing the entire rear clip on my car, I figure if I cut out ALL the old rust and weld in new panels that I will never have to deal with this happening again. Now I need a reputable body man here in N.C. who I can have the work done from. I do not know anyone down here that does body work. I would prefer someone who does Mopars.
 
ive seen a demonstration on the new 2 part epoxy. they tried to tear it apart and the metal around gave. the glue held.
as far as how many years before it cracks is unknown??
 
The epoxy is certainly strong enough to hold a skin in place how ever I dont think I would use it for that application personally. You will have to hide the seam with filler and I would think it would have more chance of cracking then a welded seam.
 
Its good stuff for sure and expensive. For a job that big I would weld it in though.
 
I'm not trying to hijack this thread, but also I have a question....I'm going to mig my panels in place as well....Should I weld the entire seam, or just tack it in spots?....If I do tack it, how often along the seam should it be tacked, and how long of a bead at each tack?
 
if you know of any body shops in your area stop by around lunch time and ask someone that works there (not the boss)you can usually you can tell the workers from the dust on them. and just ask them if they know of one of the guys that does work on the side if you find one that does ask him if you can see sum of his work. I worked in a body shop for 21 years and did more side work than working for the man.and if you get one they can usually hook you up with a good painter and sometimes you can find someone that does it all.:cheers:then you can go by and keep an eye on them .just trying to help good luck unless you feel good about doing it yourself. all and i wouldn't use brass because the flux from it will blister after a year or so..:angry7:
 
godfatherofchry said:
if you know of any body shops in your area stop by around lunch time and ask someone that works there (not the boss)you can usually you can tell the workers from the dust on them. and just ask them if they know of one of the guys that does work on the side if you find one that does ask him if you can see sum of his work. I worked in a body shop for 21 years and did more side work than working for the man.and if you get one they can usually hook you up with a good painter and sometimes you can find someone that does it all.:cheers:then you can go by and keep an eye on them .just trying to help good luck unless you feel good about doing it yourself. all and i wouldn't use brass because the flux from it will blister after a year or so..:angry7:
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Well I do know of a guy who has told me he could weld the new skins in but he is not that experienced in welding body panels. I will probably do what you suggested and try to get a body guy who can do the job on the side. Of course $$$$ is always an issue and i do not have a lot of that laying around so I will shop around and try to find someone who is knowledgeable AND reasonable priced.
 
If it's the typical rust behind the wheels cancer, why not cut it out and weld in a patch? It's a heck of a lot less work than an entire quarter.
 
70Duster440 said:
If it's the typical rust behind the wheels cancer, why not cut it out and weld in a patch? It's a heck of a lot less work than an entire quarter.
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It is the typical rust behind the wheels and also around the wheel well lip there is bubbling happening there also. My car was a northern transplant now living in the South. I was unsure that cutting and welding in new sheetmetal would be the way to go because I have heard that once there is rust behind the outer quarter skin, that you can never really get rid of all of it, that it will keep coming back. I am thinking that it would be a better alternative in the long run to just cut out all the old original quarter skin and then take a look at the inner sheet metal and go from there. I believe that the sheet metal inner panels are in good shape in front of the wheel wells but I'm unsure of the condition of the metal behind the wheels. I know that I have to open it up and get in there and find out how bad it is. The area below the drivers side taillight on the trunk tail valance is also bubbling and this valance will more than likely need to be cut out and replaced. I was just leaning towards cutting out the whole rear clip off of the car and starting new. I don't know at this point. The only thing I do know is that this will be EXPENSIVE to repair either way.:(
 
Got a technical school around you that offers auto collision classes? I took classes and was able to work on my own car there. I know the job was done completely and correctly. I had to furnish parts and paint.
C
 
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