sb headers, other than the tti or dougs????????????????????????

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340plot

340plot

the bushy bush
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ok, so i got a full refund from performance peddler for the dougs that i had ordered, and waited over a month for


so now that i got the money back, am contiplating going with a cheaper set of headers, or even manifolds, as i am not building a track car. how will the 72-73 340 manifolds work on a mild 70 340?


please do not tell me that they are no good.

what if.............................. if a given motor is putting out 300 h.p with the 69-70 340 manifolds, how many h.p do i lose with going with the 272-73 manifolds?

and how much h.p is freed up by going with the dougs headers over the 68-70 340 manifolds.


how much over the 72-73 340 manifolds?


thanks for the help
 
I had a CHEEP set of headers on my Demon, I hated them, they leaked all the time, tried all different gaskets, of course they had a flat tube where I bottomed the car on them. I took it to a muffler shop and had the cut off the headers and replace them with my stock manifolds, I was shocked on how much horse power I lost....... I ordered another set of headers the same day.....Cheep ones again......I used them until I bought a set of 68/69 340 manifolds, some said they were just as good as headers ..... I don't really think so, BUT they are better than the 72 manifolds and Better than CHEEP Headers....... so I gave up a little to gain a little......... no more leaking headers, a little less on horse power. ......... just MY experience.
 
One of the magazines (I think Mopar Muscle) did a test of a 300-hp crate 360 with all different types of exhaust manifolds and headers, from 318 logs to Hooker Super Comps. They found about a 3 HP difference going from regular 360 log-type car or truck manifolds to early 340 manifolds, about 5-7 going up to 1 5/8" headers and then again going up to stepped TTIs. Here's the results, I think it's one of the more useful magazine articles out there...

155_0307_exh_dyno_z.jpg


EDIT: Forgot to say the biggest issue with headers is fitment, rather than HP, that makes the pricier ones better...
 
From that chart looks like TTI is the winner,if i wasn't running TTI'S already or when i need bigger pipes i'll be having them custom made..cheap headers are just that CHEAP in every aspect..
 
wow what a diff....LOL
I have this issue, funny still as it was then.
tti's and there whole 13 hp over STOCK 318 [email protected]AAAA

thats worth $700...NOT!

My favorite is how $700 tti's make only about 5hp over a $150 hooker/headman on that maid street motor @5000rpm.
Either tti's are just over priced, garbage, or both.

an extra 500-550 just so they don't scrape the ground.

yeah...tti's the winner...BWAAAAAAAA
 
ok, so out of the cheaper ones................... which one will be the best for street driven car? manifolds or headers?
 
1wild&crazyguy said:
wow what a diff....LOL
I have this issue, funny still as it was then.
tti's and there whole 13 hp over STOCK 318 [email protected]AAAA

thats worth $700...NOT!

My favorite is how $700 tti's make only about 5hp over a $150 hooker/headman on that maid street motor @5000rpm.
Either tti's are just over priced, garbage, or both.

an extra 500-550 just so they don't scrape the ground.

yeah...tti's the winner...BWAAAAAAAA
Click to expand...

change your headers once every year after hitting ground and replace gaskets as they fail from to thin flanges and bad design of the flange conecting to the exhaust from time to time also add in the time it takes to do these things and how much money creating work you could have done instead and the 500$ diference is not all that much
 
duster340 said:
change your headers once every year after hitting ground and replace gaskets as they fail from to thin flanges and bad design of the flange conecting to the exhaust from time to time also add in the time it takes to do these things and how much money creating work you could have done instead and the 500$ diference is not all that much
Click to expand...


a bodies are not trucks, slow down for dips.

with the leak thing everybody has a diff experience.
I've had'em leak, I've had'em not leak.

good gaskets, proper torque/re torque, and an exhaust flange that hasn't been opened up too far..make the difference between leaking and not leaking.imo
 
Read an article where a guy was was running a 318 in a stock class making about 375 hp said he just ran the chepo headers worked as good as any others.Hedman all the way,Kevin.
 
a bodies are not trucks, slow down for dips.
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slow down? hell with hooker and headmans on my dart i had to come to almost a complete stop for dips in the road so they wouldn't hit. that just sucks sure i can crank the ride height up so they won't hit but thats not a look i'm into. i'll stick with my tti or dougs.
 
My point in posting that data was that it probably isn't worth it to get headers at all at your intended level of power. Try to get some early ('68-'71) 340 manifolds if you can find them for a decent price (good luck) but if not get some later 340s ('72-'75?), and after that some regular 360 manifolds. I'm looking at getting some later 340 manifolds for my 360 Magnum (~300 HP) I'm building for my Duster to run temporarily. I'll save up the money and get some Doug's headers at some point because I intend to upgrade to Edelbrock heads and a solid cam and hopefully push out 425+ HP. I'm also building my car for handling and road racing and would like to lower it so low-hanging cheapo headers ain't gonna cut it.
 
You could use some 360 manifolds off of a magnum truck. From what I here they flow just as well as the 68-70 340 ones and cost way less. There is a thread around here some where about them.
 
get dougs.....tti's are a lil overpriced now that I think of it...ull be just fine with dougs...i wasnt too happy with the el cheapo headman headers in my cuda, rusted pieces of ****, not worth getting ceramic coated to make em last when they get BANGED up...good luck
 
dont know what they cost but the real winner is the shortys 1 hp under the ttis and Im sure they dont cost 700 big ones [
155_0307_exh_dyno_z.jpg


EDIT: Forgot to say the biggest issue with headers is fitment, rather than HP, that makes the pricier ones better...[/QUOTE]
 
The hookers I had took as long to get seated as it did to put the whole motor and trans in, They still leaked. Not to mention pulling the center link to get them in. F that get some dougs or tti's.
 
I was just looking at the Summit headers and they look like a copy of the Doug's. Are they?
 
Revhendo said:
I was just looking at the Summit headers and they look like a copy of the Doug's. Are they?
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1970Duster said:
Rev is right the summit racing headers do look like a copy of Doug's, but from the looks of it, you'll have to pull your Torsion bar to put them in.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G9140/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G9040/

coated and painted versions
Click to expand...

Dont see how yall say they look like dougs....they are absolutely not even close...
 
Ouch, hey man, working off of crusty old guy memory.
 
I'm not sure they know what they have. If you look at the pics of the painted and then the unpainted ones, they are two different sets. It does look like they don't trap the centerlink. I'm not playing the centerlink game anymore......
 
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