School me on trans basics

-
JoeSBP said:
Any trans gurus know why the factory adapters are only 1/8"?

Maybe to intentionally reduce flow to cooler and put more back in the pan until fluid is warmer?

I don't want to mod on assumptions and causes headaches later.
Click to expand...

No idea why they did that then but when the late 80's early 90's overdrive trans (A-500 and A518) came out they had the cases drilled out to 1/4" pipe and used 1/4" pipe fittings with 3/8" cooler lines. Maybe they figured out slightly larger lines produced more coolant flow and kept it cooler?? Just a guess
 
When the oil comes back from the cooler, it think it does not just "dump into the pan". It first goes thru the lube circuit, which is regulated to peak at about 30 psi, but it is a function of the convertor pressure, which is factory regulated to about 75 psi.
The cooler line and fittings are easily able to handle the flow in the lube circuit.
If your TC is ballooning at cruise rpm, imagine what it might do at Full-load WOT!
Perhaps tour TC regulator valve is not working right.
Perhaps your thrust bearing is going.
Perhaps the inspection cover is not staying where you expect it to.

A small vibration that you can control with throttle, I imagine is more likely to be in the U-joints, the pinion angle, or the mounts, or perhaps the tail-bushing.

You say the TC is a 3500. But. Have you verified this?
 
Correct bolts are in it, been running it a few years and this just popped up. Converter is a 27-35 from Hughes. It's rated at 3500, but for a small block they state stall can dip 300-500 rpm below advertised. Trans is a 12-2 from Hughes as well..
 
Also the cooler showed up last night. Looks very very high quality. What is the preferred orientation for it?
 
okay gents, I retract my statement on the correct bolts in place. These are 7/16, and looks like PO shaved the heads down to clearance them. does anyone know the actual head thickness of the correct bolts, or have a link to the correct ones? They have clearance to the dust shield, but I'm still getting an intermitten sheetmetal rattle/contact sound. No pattern to it. Under load, on over run, in park, at idle, at cruise, in reverse, etc. I hear it for 5-10 seconds then its gone, and still have a high vibration right at 2900-3000. Thinking it's time to give Hughes a call. *sigh.
 
TrailBeast said:
They can crack right around or even directly from one to the next bolt hole at the crank as well as from the center out, like you might see with the cover off.
The big problem is if it gets bad enough to take out the trans pump before it gets caught, and an off balance problem like you described with heat changes and (sometimes) contacting the block could very well indicate that this is exactly what is happening.

View attachment 1715068597

View attachment 1715068598
Click to expand...
Is this a Mopar flex plate. Lol looks like Chevy to me
 
mopar flexplates do not have the ring gear on them....they are on the converter....
 
Duane said:
Is this a Mopar flex plate. Lol looks like Chevy to me
Click to expand...

It can and does happen to all flex plates, so the one I posted was just an example.
We didn't need to see it on a Mopar specific plate to show it can happen around the crank where you can't see it with the trans installed.
 
TrailBeast said:
It can and does happen to all flex plates, so the one I posted was just an example.
We didn't need to see it on a Mopar specific plate to show it can happen around the crank where you can't see it with the trans installed.
Click to expand...
I agree it can happen to any stock flex plate. I have a Mopar Sfi approved in the race car. I also have one in my 96 ram diesel as the stock one on it failed miserably and it too caused a vibration when it failed. Even though it is only a stock hauler/daily driver it has an upgrade flex plate. Good insurance. Flex plate bolts are always a good application for loctite. I work for an oem car manufacturer, and those bolts always get thread locker.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top