Thanks I'm sure I can google it.
Scored Main Cap Bearing - Ouch
- Thread starter blewbyoutobad
- Start date
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This is what came out of the filter. I unfolded all the pleats and used my magnet to pick up any debris. The oil also had a lot of metallic debris in it. This was on the inlet side.
Iron and steel will stick to the magnet. Bearing material won't.
The bearings are steel but the coatings are copper and zinc I believe.
Yep. If your bearings are down past the copper to the steel you are screwed. LOL
Not zinc coated but a babbit material over copper.
MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
Thats right.
Bearing will show itself as bronzish metalic pearl in the oil .
Bearings are either aluminum alloy over steel or copper n lead over steel
Thats what I have
MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
like I said, it's all gone through the system and into the filter at this point, we hope and or for the most part. get yourself some full Groove main bearings and stick a magnet in the bottom of the oil pan. Like a piece of speaker magnet.
Already have that insurance
MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
Every motor i do, i put a magnet in the pan.
Do you place it so you can remove it or does it just stay there.
Every shortcut you take now will be a shortcut short lived. Way to much metal involved for a flush and this engine needs pulled, disassembled, cleaned, and rebuilt. End of story.
512Stroker
We are all here because we are not all there.
I have seen worse, never any good.
That is not good
If that were mine I would take it apart and rebuild.
I hate cutting corners
Marcohotrod
Well-Known Member
the non chamfered oil holes and too long flywheel bolts have been corrected. much cleaning has been done. my 345 steel crank and stock / massaged rods likes .015-.025" side clearance, 7000 for decades. go for it, after priming pump
Thank you John
Ok so I spoke about another short block that I have with forged pistons (TRW 10:1). It was running but smoking when I pulled it. The X heads were pulled and installed on this mtr in the car after rebuilt and ported. I would rather rebuild the forged motor and have it ready to go in when this one is pulled. I have always had the shortblocks rebuilt but I really dont want to do that anymore and I feel like I am talented enough to build one. So once the other mtr is apart what is the rebuild sequence of cleaning and what machine work should be done or checks (no short cuts, thanks John and all). It has no ring ridge so until I get the pistons out I wont know if there is any damage on the cyl walls. I found out the shop that did my shortblock in the car did not have a boil tank, so besides me with the long bolts I feel they are the problem for the trash. Once apart is the first step to have a shop boil and clean or do they boil and I clean? So far you all have given me good advice and I'm willing to suck it up after finding the metal last night. The oil looks like metallic dark brown paint. Can you all take me step by step and I will buy any tools I dont have (which would be mostly micrometers, I have dial indicators and calipers). I dont want to go through this again and I will sell the damaged shortblock to help finance the new one. Any idea what I should ask for it? Thanks again to all that has posted.
I wish you lived closer. It gets lonely in my shop since my kid lost interest in working on cars and engines. All he wants to do is drive. Pathetic. He’s up watching our friends race in Virginia on tv.
Yea me to, I'd love to talk Mopar with someone but my best Mopar friends are in Arizona and Long Island.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
LOL. Drivers get all the glory. That grease and crap and all the bumps and bruises is for the old people.
Marcohotrod
Well-Known Member
the performance engine shop I visit has a hot tank for iron - heads rods valves etc. blocks first went for a spin in a big hot spin pressure washer. after machining everything is spinwashed and hand rinsed with pressure. and bagged.
MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
I have attached one outside on the back, never comes off, and I have put them in the bottom of the sump. They do not move buddy...but work better than a magnetic drain plug if you have some failure...the magnet grabs it and it won't cycle all the trash through the oil system.
Do what you can, pull it or not.
You could yank the trans and do it all in car. But way easier out of the car.
Just giving my judgment of what I can see.
I've done this on motors, 390 ford ran with no oil pump! And changed bearing in the truck on a lift and it's still going strong 8 yrs later...but I'm all about doing things right 1st time around.
Get a block brush kit, mr.gasket sells a set.
Warm water, dawn/dish soap, all plugs out and brush all the passages real good..sponge the bores...rinse clean keeping as wet as you can till you are ready for compressed air to dry it...and immediately wipe a clean cloth with wd-40 over all machined surfaces, prime an paint the rest. Another is just hit the whole thing with wd when clean and then when it's all together brake clean off what you wanna paint ...I do the first.
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Yes thanks this will come in handy in the near future. I will check with Mr Gasket
Wyrmrider
Well-Known Member
do not like wd 40 for hat as it imbeds small particles rather than float them
atf hone oil hat else?
atf hone oil hat else?
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