shackle angle again

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Snake

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I just got booth leafs on the Duster in, the leafs are stock + 1 inch NEW.In the first pic booth sides are at ride height,booth side same, something is not right,the second pic the angle is not at ride height,jack stands under frame.I did lower very slowly, what now,as I was jacking the rear up to remove the jack stands i could see the angle going towards the floor pan.Need help big time.
 

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Gotta flip them around and get the shocks hooked up to keep them from going over center.
 
What are those springs? You stated the first pic was at ride height? The spring looks too short..
 
Same front and rear measurements from locating pin as stock springs?
Looks like the spring may be too short on the rear section. What front leaf mount do you have installed?
 
Lengths from MP.................
 

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Gotta flip them around and get the shocks hooked up to keep them from going over center.

One side atta time.
If one side is correct, put the shock on that side first,pronto.
Do not try to flip them out at ride height. There is/may be hundreds of pounds of force stored in there.But don't jack the car up till the rear is hanging either, cuz it will just flip back again. Somewhere in between. Then get the shock on pronto. Then move to the otherside.
Stuff happens. Once the shocks are back on they will limit the the spring/shackle movement into their normal working range. There is a correct set-up working-angle for those. So after you get it right,come back with pics, and someone will help you out.
 
That happened to me once before. Just jack the back of the car up, then take a long pry bar and pry the shackle backwards as someone slowly lowers the rear of the car and then you can get the leaf spring to seat properly...
 
OK guys the rear is on the jack stands:D not the frame,you know befor my stroke it would of not got to me,but now the world is ending ,I tryed what you said and check out the pic.It still not the angle it think it should may more weight like engine,gas in the tank,rear bumper,and everything else will help,I hope.Thanks for sticking it out with me.:cheers:
 

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You may have to shim the rear perches forward to get the angle corrected, but do it after the car is complete, full of fuel, front torsion bars set, and sitting at ride height.

I had to shim my car, Mancini Racing 1981-1982 HD springs.

Who made those springs?
 
Is there any chance that the front mounts are on upside down? That would pull the springs forward.
From the factory, the mounts should not shove the spring-eye up high into the box.

That angle actually looks pretty close at this point in time.
Since you are dinking around back there, anyway, consider moving the front mount back as far as it will go,on the factory studs;So you can run 28s. You get to solve two problems at the same time.I think I was able to put a 3/8 steel shim in there.Some have only been able to get 1/4 inch in there
 
You may have to shim the rear perches forward to get the angle corrected, but do it after the car is complete, full of fuel, front torsion bars set, and sitting at ride height.

I had to shim my car, Mancini Racing 1981-1982 HD springs.

Who made those springs?

All I know they were made in the U.S. Nation mopatrs here in canada had them made up for me.Yes I seam to recall the shim angle ,thankssssssssssss.
 
I guess the lengths measure up.
Do you have some weight you can place over the axle to see what it does?

Anyone, he needs these straight up and down at minimum and not forward as the picture, correct?

Looks like he's got a ways to go...................
 

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I guess the lengths measure up.
Do you have some weight you can place over the axle to see what it does?

Anyone, he needs these straight up and down at minimum and not forward as the picture, correct?

Looks like he's got a ways to go...................

I could put some weight in the trunk, I did have cindy push down on the rear of the car and the shackle did move back some .
 
........With weight on the car the top of the shackle should be a little forward......stiffer springs have more curvature to them in effect making them shorter...u could always shim the rear mount to bring it forward. .kim.....
 
Dave's got it right. With the suspension at full droop, the rear spring eye should be no further forward than directly under the frame mount eye;( or shackle vertical); to spring eye slightly rearward of frame mount..

The old DC race bulletin #30 says the same as above, but specifies at ride height.

I think it is safer to set it at full droop(opinion)
 
Pull back on them with a pry bar as you jack up that side with a floor jack and see if you can get them to go the right way.
 
........With weight on the car the top of the shackle should be a little forward......stiffer springs have more curvature to them in effect making them shorter...u could always shim the rear mount to bring it forward. .kim.....

I agree with Kim. I know your old springs may be tired/worn but can you compare them to the new ones?
 
Is there any chance that the front mounts are on upside down? That would pull the springs forward.
From the factory, the mounts should not shove the spring-eye up high into the box.

That angle actually looks pretty close at this point in time.
Since you are dinking around back there, anyway, consider moving the front mount back as far as it will go,on the factory studs;So you can run 28s. You get to solve two problems at the same time.I think I was able to put a 3/8 steel shim in there.

Not to hijack AJ but is the amount of adjustment(move back) dictated by the length of stud on the front mount?

Thanks
Steve
 
I had this problem installing a set of Espo springs on a Dart. Let the spring hang loose from the car, use a pry bar to pull the shackle backward while someone jacks the leaf spring from below with a floor jack. Pull the shackle back as the jack compresses the spring and get it to "flip" backwards. It will go rearward and stay that way if you keep the spring loaded.
 
Not to hijack AJ but is the amount of adjustment(move back) dictated by the length of stud on the front mount?

Thanks
Steve

Yup.I think I got the 3/8 by cheating. The factory nuts IIRC were self-locking or interference-fit, or staked or some such a thing. This made them unusually tall. I just loc-tited them. They've been that way forever. Ok maybe 15 years?
 
........With weight on the car the top of the shackle should be a little forward......stiffer springs have more curvature to them in effect making them shorter...u could always shim the rear mount to bring it forward. .kim.....

I think the shim is the next thing to try,I have tryed to jack it over and over that is as far back as i could get it.Bummer have to pull everything apart.Do they make the shim,or do I have to make them,if how, how thick 2'' 3'' 1/2''.
 
Yup.I think I got the 3/8 by cheating. The factory nuts IIRC were self-locking or interference-fit, or staked or some such a thing. This made them unusually tall. I just loc-tited them. They've been that way forever. Ok maybe 15 years?

Thanks AJ
 
I think the shim is the next thing to try,I have tryed to jack it over and over that is as far back as i could get it.Bummer have to pull everything apart.Do they make the shim,or do I have to make them,if how, how thick 2'' 3'' 1/2''.

You are limited on the shim thickness. The studs on the front perch are about 1 1/4" long. I used a 3/8" aluminum shim. If you make the shim too thick you won't have enough threads left for the nut. This is critical!! You wouldn't want your spring to come loose while you're driving around.
You have to use the same thickness shim on both sides to keep the rear end square to the body.

treblig
 
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