shop refrigerator operation

[pishta]

Maytag 21 CF refer with freezer on top wasnt cooling beer enough so I started to investigate. Was cranked up,refer to max and freezer to max with no effect, seemed to be stuck at 50F in the bottom refer portion. I cleaned the lower coils (dusty) and the top coils were lightly coated with frost behind the rear wall of freezer. I cleared the air duct that leads down to the lower refer portion (sight ice blockage) and I though I fixed it. Today, I investigated the thermostat. I turned the thermostat all the way up (just before off) and the motor kicked off and returned the dial slowly and the motor kicked back on so according to the diagnostics that means its working (sort of). So I then checked the freezer control and it seemed to be stuck on MAX so I manipulated the arm to a vent and it broke free of ice or something. So I imagine the operation is like this: The refer control turns the entire unit off and on with varying voltage (per the spec of the stat rheostat) to the compressor and the freezer control seems to manipulate a 'bleed door" to feed the lower refer portion. Min freezer setting is bleed door wide open to refer section so all the cooling is sinking to the lower portion. MAX setting is bleed door shut or restricted to keep freezer closed to refer section. Does this sound correct? I need to wait 24hrs to see if my recommended setting (3+3) refer/freezer setting is going to get my refer portion back down to >40. Fridge is ~10 years old, new from Home Depot. I had a line on a 25' stainless Samsung that only needed a door latch for $300 but I missed it due to no truck at that hour.

 

[Brooks James]

If it's a Samsung with an ice maker, run away ( I sold appliances)

 

[DFX 340 Duster]

I had a similar condition with a refrigerator/freezer long ago. The appliacne repair guy came out and used a heat gun to remove all of the built up ice in the ducts that ran from the freezer to the refrigerator section. I then periodically used a hair dryer on a warm setting to remove built up ice in the bleed ducts.

 

[Demonic]

Often they design them for an indoor setting and assumed lower humidity. If the garage isn't air conditioned, ice may build faster.

 

[dano]

You're lucky to get 10 years out of a new appliance.

Never ever buy a Samsung appliance. I had one of their dishwashers, it had leaks from the factory. Tons of videos on how to fix a brand new one to not leak. POS all the way.

 

[6PakBee]

I have a Samsung "smart" TV. Anything but. It used to handle old TV shows on Prime but it suddenly stopped for many of them. The recommendation from the Samsung tech line.....buy a new TV. Never again.

 

[Johnny Mac]

Maytag 21 CF refer with freezer on top wasnt cooling beer enough so I started to investigate. Was cranked up,refer to max and freezer to max with no effect, seemed to be stuck at 50F in the bottom refer portion. I cleaned the lower coils (dusty) and the top coils were lightly coated with frost behind the rear wall of freezer. I cleared the air duct that leads down to the lower refer portion (sight ice blockage) and I though I fixed it. Today, I investigated the thermostat. I turned the thermostat all the way up (just before off) and the motor kicked off and returned the dial slowly and the motor kicked back on so according to the diagnostics that means its working (sort of). So I then checked the freezer control and it seemed to be stuck on MAX so I manipulated the arm to a vent and it broke free of ice or something. So I imagine the operation is like this: The refer control turns the entire unit off and on with varying voltage (per the spec of the stat rheostat) to the compressor and the freezer control seems to manipulate a 'bleed door" to feed the lower refer portion. Min freezer setting is bleed door wide open to refer section so all the cooling is sinking to the lower portion. MAX setting is bleed door shut or restricted to keep freezer closed to refer section. Does this sound correct? I need to wait 24hrs to see if my recommended setting (3+3) refer/freezer setting is going to get my refer portion back down to >40. Fridge is ~10 years old, new from Home Depot. I had a line on a 25' stainless Samsung that only needed a door latch for $300 but I missed it due to no truck at that hour.

If it's a Samsung with an ice maker, run away ( I sold appliances)

You're lucky to get 10 years out of a new appliance.

Never ever buy a Samsung appliance. I had one of their dishwashers, it had leaks from the factory. Tons of videos on how to fix a brand new one to not leak. POS all the way.

I have a Samsung "smart" TV. Anything but. It used to handle old TV shows on Prime but it suddenly stopped for many of them. The recommendation from the Samsung tech line.....buy a new TV. Never again.

My Samsung tv's and phones have been fine, but I agree with the above about appliances. Built our house 4 years ago. Fridge/freezer lost the ice maker function at 2 years. Dish washer doesn't clean well or dry. Digital display on clock of oven is missing digits.

Absolute junk. Never again.

 

[pishta]

I feel the same on Samsing appliances. Seems they are too smart for their own good, ie smart on stupid stuff
but dumb about solid engineering. Ill try the heat gun method as I feel there is still some sort of blockage on the freezer control vent.

Often they design them for an indoor setting and assumed lower humidity. If the garage isn't air conditioned, ice may build faster.

Its actually in kitchen, I just mentioned shop so some guys would not flame this post as not 'shop related'....

 

[pishta]

And of course the thermostat (if bad) is no longer available...and completely sold out everywhere. Could I adapt another? are they similar on operation from one to another (rheostat, sense tube,2 spade connectors..) this one says 10K on it

 

[67Dart273]

Just about any mech/ electric stat that resembles that one should work. You have the basics correct. The stat controls evap temp. The bleed air door changes the amount of cooling to the refer. Make sure the fan works and is not dragging, and make sure the defrost stat is not sticking if it is still a mech/ electric clock motor type. The only other important component, generally is a defrost termination stat, which stops defrost when the evap warms up. So if it's sticky you can have problems. Make sure the evap drain is not blocked

Probably the biggest other problem is that the aluminum evaps can develop slow leaks almost impossible to detect. These leaks of course, slowly reduce the refrigeration capacity and efficiency. If you are sure this is the problem, and if it is slow enough that "let's say" you get a year out of it, you can rustle up some refrigerant and either weld or clamp on a saddle valve.

Charging these is a VERY iffy deal. Used to use a charging cylinder, but you must take into account the refrigerant in your hoses. They can be very finnicky.

If this is kind of a junker, and beer only, you might consider just really opening up the damper so it can really move some air from freezer to fridge. It might even in some cases be helpful to add a second or install a larger fan

Having worked on my share of commercial / restaurant equipment, it is a crying shame the poor crap us homeowners get

 

[pishta]

I'm leaning on the blocked vent theory. I'll torch it and see if anything drips out. Freezer is ice cold. Your defrost theory is valid: does this just cycle the compressor on a timer ie. 20 hours on 21 minutes off like one mechanical timer states online?

 

[pishta]

heated up vent, nothing there but some burnt styrafoam! :-( its all back together. fridge is holding at 40F. I guess its working again. Id like it 34 like the beer cooler at the liquor store!