shopping for 360 engine block what to look for…?

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Chryslerkid

Chryslerkid

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i am in the market for a 360 engine block ready to be rebuilt to my specs. I am looking for a good foundation to work with. My plan is to slowly build this engine to my desired specifications over the next year. I am learning so go easy on me guys, as i know many of you probably think my questions are dumb.

MY QUESTION:
I've been seeing a '78 dodge 360 engine bare block online for sale for a while. it is completely stripped down to bare bones with exception to the cam and crank shafts. It is being sold for $100.00. Is this a fair price for a good shape block? Also, what should i look for in terms of a bad block(i.e. cracks and or rust) when checking out the engine in person? i guess i am a little over my head, but i really want to try to build a 360 engine in the garage on my own for once. Any suggestions are welcome. My hope is to find a 360 in need of rebuilding, send bare block to engine shop in order to machine, then assemble in my garage. thanks in advance!
 
I just bought a '76 360 with the transmission (727) & everything on it (complete stock stuffs) ready for rebuild for $360 (ironic enough). The block did have a little bit of rust once stripped down but if you plan to machine it and completely rebuild it then rust shouldn't be THAT huge of a deal . As long as the rust isn't completely eaten through. Also look for the cracks. $100 is a fairly good price just make sure you know what you're up against as far as price for the whole rebuild. Good luck and keep me posted ! View attachment photo.jpg
 
I've bought used complete cores, one running, for 150 and 100. I would think other than worrying about cracks, frozen, etc, the big thing would be bore size. After that would be obvious damage to crank journals, which would require line boring, and obvious missing or mismatch of main caps
 
thanks Brian. That one looks way better than the one i was originally looking at. more complete engine(short block vs. the bare block itself).
 
Guy I work w has a std bore 71 360 for $75. Id buy it but got to many as it is. Will prob need to go .030 to clean it up. Block only, The std bore for $100 looks like a good deal
 
When you're lookin for a 360 block, a 360 block is what to look for.
 
I've had people tell me that years don't really matter on LA blocks. True? I have a 1972 short block with 1977 heads I'm planning on rebuilding.
 
if you want a "good" foundation, first thing I would do is get the block magged AND pressure checked AND sonic checked to see what you have, if it checks out, then buy it.
if planning on big power (550+ hp), then don't even waste time on a stock block is my opinion....
 
Drg racr said:
I've had people tell me that years don't really matter on LA blocks. True? I have a 1972 short block with 1977 heads I'm planning on rebuilding.
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The earlier blocks are said to have thicker cylinder walls. I'm not sure which years they started and ended this.

Your 72 block may be one of the ones with the thicker walls (they used the 340 cores that were .040" thicker walls).


The 77 heads will work fine. just tap the egr holes for a set screw and loctite them closed (with the set screw below the machined exhaust face surface). then throw in a set of 2.02" intake valves and a little clean up porting, and you're ready to go....
 
the 1970/1976 use the 340 sand mold which gave them a thicker cylinder wall /I used a 71 in my first stock car motor and could never find out why it ran better then the others/the other were after 78 blocks, everything else was the same.
 
Maybe you're already aware, but the last 3 years of the LA 360 uses a roller cam setup. (1989-1991) some people prefer; Available in pickups and vans. (This was just prior to the switch to the Magnum series engines.
 
teringer said:
the 1970/1976 use the 340 sand mold which gave them a thicker cylinder wall /I used a 71 in my first stock car motor and could never find out why it ran better then the others/the other were after 78 blocks, everything else was the same.
Click to expand...

I heard the same thing about the 76 and older blocks. apparently you can clearly see the difference when compared side by side.
Good on ya for being willing to build an engine yourself! Plan your budget out, be realistic and make sure you get a good engine stand! Post your progress.
:thumrigh:
 
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