Show Me Your Battery Kill Switch

[GoFish]

I'm trying to figure out where to mount the battery on/off switch on my '71 Scamp. Car will be my daily driver, but since the battery is going in the trunk, I don't want to have issues when I go to the track. Pictures speak a thousand words, so let's see those Scamp and Swinger kill switches!

 

[rmchrgr]

I'm trying to figure out where to mount the battery on/off switch on my '71 Scamp. Car will be my daily driver, but since the battery is going in the trunk, I don't want to have issues when I go to the track. Pictures speak a thousand words, so let's see those Scamp and Swinger kill switches!

I'd like to see this also. Thanks!

 

[FISHBREATH]

May I ask, which racing classes require an external battery kill switch?

 

[GoFish]

I was under the impression that dragstrips require an on/off switch whenever you have the battery mounted in the trunk. Am I wrong about that?

I HOPE I'm wrong, as it would save me a bunch of trouble...

 

[FISHBREATH]

Hey, GoFish, you might try asking this question above in the Racer's Forum. I bet those guys know.

 

[Burntorange70]

I was under the impression that dragstrips require an on/off switch whenever you have the battery mounted in the trunk. Am I wrong about that?

I HOPE I'm wrong, as it would save me a bunch of trouble...

You are correct. You will need a kill switch if you put the Batt in the trunk. You will allso need a rear fire wall behind the rear seat.

 

[memike]

You are correct. You will need a kill switch if you put the Batt in the trunk. You will allso need a rear fire wall behind the rear seat.

Yes you do, and visible so when you race at the track I think :read2:remove your license plate I think, That could be a good location.

While I have you here Burntorange70, Is it true that if the battery is located
directly over your rear axle that there is less hp loss or is it just a myth ?

 

[Burntorange70]

Yes you do, and visible so when you race at the track I think :read2:remove your license plate I think, That could be a good location.

While I have you here Burntorange70, Is it true that if the battery is located
directly over your rear axle that there is less hp loss or is it just a myth ?

Never hered of any thing like that memike. The best place to put it is on the passenger side as far back in the trunk as you can get it. Puting it on the pass side helps over come the tourqe roll from the motor.

 

[GoFish]

Uh oh...rear firewall too?! What's the word I'm looking for?

Oh yeah.

CRAP! :angry7:

 

[memike]

Uh oh...rear firewall too?! What's the word I'm looking for?

Oh yeah.

CRAP! :angry7:

Maybe build your own fire wall that will quickly bolt in behind the wall of your back seat and the trunk.:-k:dontknow:

 

[ocdart]

Burntorange 70 is absolutely correct. Locate the battery as far to the rear as possible to increase the weight transfer effect, and on the passenger side of the trunk to counteract chassis twist due to motor torque.
GoFish - Check the NHRA rulebook for rear firewall requirements. I don't think it's anything to tough to live up to. Probably .040 aluminum may be sufficient (sorry, I don't have a current rulebook here at work).

 

[GoFish]

Okay, whew! I just looked up the battery relocation rules in the NHRA rulebook, and here's what it says in rule 8:1:

"All batteries must be securely mounted. Must be of sufficient
capacity to start vehicle at any time. Batteries may not be relocated
into the driver or passenger compartments. Rear firewall of .024-
inch steel or .032-inch aluminum (including package tray) required
when battery is relocated in trunk. In lieu of rear firewall, battery
may be located in a sealed .024-inch-steel, .032-inch-aluminum, or
NHRA-accepted poly box. If sealed box is used in lieu of rear
firewall, box may not be used to secure battery and must be
vented outside of body. Relocated battery(s) must be fastened to
frame or frame structure with a minimum of two 3/8-inch-diameter
bolts. (“J” hooks prohibited or must have open end welded shut.)
OEM-located batteries without complete OEM hold-down hardware
must be secured to OEM battery box/tray using the same 3/8-inchdiameter-
bolt hold-down method described in previous sentence.
Metal battery hold-down straps mandatory. Strapping tape
prohibited."

So I guess a battery box can be used instead of a rear firewall. :cheers:

 

[Demon416]

Uh oh...rear firewall too?! What's the word I'm looking for?

Oh yeah.

CRAP! :angry7:

Here are the answers you seek. Frequently Asked NHRA Tech Questions from the NHRA's website.

BATTERY RELOCATED...
I have a street car that I occasionally run at the strip. I've relocated the battery to the rear. What else do I need?
Any car with a relocated battery must be equipped with a master electrical cutoff, capable of stopping all electrical functions including ignition (must shut the engine off, as well as fuel pumps, etc.). The switch must be located on the rear of the vehicle, with the "off" position clearly marked. If the switch is of a "push / pull" type, then "push" must be the motion that shuts off the switch, and plastic or "keyed" typed switches are prohibited. Also, the battery must be completely sealed from the driver and/or driver compartment. This means a metal bulkhead must separate the trunk from the driver compartment, or the battery must be located in a sealed, metal box constructed of minimum .024 inch steel or .032 inch aluminum, or in an NHRA accepted plastic box. In cars with a conventional trunk, metal can simply be installed behind the rear seat and under the package tray to effectively seal the battery off from the driver. In a hatchback type vehicle the battery box is usually the easiest solution, since the alternative is to fabricate a bulkhead which seals to the hatch when closed. At present, Moroso is the only company which offers an NHRA accepted plastic battery box, part number 74050.

But I drive on the street. I don't want a big cut off switch hanging on the back.
This solution takes a little work, but it solves the problem. Install the master cutoff inside the vehicle, positioned "sideways" so that the toggle moves forward and back. Drill a hole in the toggle handle, and attach a steel rod that will run out the back of the car, through a hole drilled completely through one tail light assembly. Have a spare tail light assembly on hand, so when you come home from the drags, you remove the rod and put the cherry tail light back in for street cruising. Next time you plan on going to the drag strip, swap lights and reinstall the rod. Since the drilled light is for the strip only, you can also have it marked "PUSH OFF" in big letters so the Tech Inspectors will think you're cool.

http://www.nhra.org/contacts/tech_faq.html

Hope this helps.

 

[ocdart]

GREAT solution to the problem on dual-purpose cars, Demon416! Now I've got a use for my old tail light lenses.

 

[crackedback]

Looks like you found the proper text regarding battery in trunk/cut off switches.

I like the flaming river cutoff with the shut off handle/bar. You can put the bar on at the track and be legal and take it off when running around town so nobody can screw with it.

Here's a good way to wire the car when the battery is in the trunk. Once you throw the switch nothing is hot beyond the switch and relays.

In other words, no hot wires beyond the trunk.

Here are a few pics of a friends Valiant

 

[Demon416]

GREAT solution to the problem on dual-purpose cars, Demon416! Now I've got a use for my old tail light lenses.

Thanks. I didn't want to go through the taillight or tail panel, so I mounted mine under the bumper.

 

[waggin]

Demon 416 that thing is awesome!!!!!!!

 

[Demon416]

Why thank you sir. That wagon of yours is pretty cool too. I've always wanted a '63 Plymouth Belvedere wagon with a 413 or 426 wedge engine. Just never found the right one. You don't see too many around anymore. And that's too bad because wagons are pretty "nasty" looking if they are done right.

 

[memike]

Looks like you found the proper text regarding battery in trunk/cut off switches.

I like the flaming river cutoff with the shut off handle/bar. You can put the bar on at the track and be legal and take it off when running around town so nobody can screw with it.

Here's a good way to wire the car when the battery is in the trunk. Once you throw the switch nothing is hot beyond the switch and relays.

In other words, no hot wires beyond the trunk.

Here are a few pics of a friends Valiant

Thank you for sharing:thumbrig: Very nice :blob:

 

[340-Swinger]

Yes, Thanks 'crackedback'
Great pictures and wiring diagram, very clean and professional
My next project ........
Did I mention very clean look, the vinyl trunk mat really tops it off for me.

GregH

 

[Demon416]

crackedback: Very clean looking installation. Looks really nice.

 

[Demon416]

crackedback: You should post your diagram in the "Tech Archive" for future reference.

 

[GoFish]

Crackedback: Thanks much for the diagram and pics. Just what I needed.

Demon416: Your car looks badass. I just spent almost $300 on new tail lenses, so I don't want to drill one. My first choice will be to install behind the license plate. If that ends up being too much work, going underneath like yours seems the best alternative.

 

[crackedback]

Wish I could take credit for the pics I posted. My Friend Ron Silva did that work. If you were at MATS it was the Silver Valiant with a crate 406 running 11.40's. The car is a really clean piece.

I'll post the diagrams I have in the tech section, thanks for the suggestion.

 

[rmchrgr]

Wish I could take credit for the pics I posted. My Friend Ron Silva did that work. If you were at MATS it was the Silver Valiant with a crate 406 running 11.40's. The car is a really clean piece.

I'll post the diagrams I have in the tech section, thanks for the suggestion.

Silvaliant! That car is SLICK. I read his stuff on •ahem• the other site. I thought the pics of the trunk looked familiar.

Only a few images so far... anyone else have any pictures of their kill switch install for '71 Dart/Scamp?