sleepyhead416
Well-Known Member
I'm ready to put frame connectors in my 69 DART PROJECT. Don't know whether to buy a set or make a set.
Show me your frame connectors
- Thread starter sleepyhead416
- Start date
-
efriedrich
69 383S
There is a member named seymour_scamp that makes them. Very nice part for a very nice price, great service, great guy to deal with.
blue missile
Well-Known Member
BigSlim
"One Day At a Time"
Here's the ones that we put in the Valiant
68dart-sb
Well-Known Member
If you have a welder and a chop saw. I would buy 1.5 x 3 steel tube and make them. About $40.00 in metal and you do not have to cut the floor. You will also need 2 - 3 x 5 pieces of plate steel for the ends. I have done one set on a 68 Dart and will be putting a set in a 64 Dart in the near future.
If you want to cut and weld them into the floor use 2 x 3 steel tube, this is my 2 cents.
Sam
If you want to cut and weld them into the floor use 2 x 3 steel tube, this is my 2 cents.
Sam
abodyjoe
Well-Known Member
this is how we made mine. http://www.bigblockdart.com/techpages/connectors.shtml
it was easy as hell and the metal was something $25 if i remember correctly..
.
it was easy as hell and the metal was something $25 if i remember correctly..
.
scampy72
Well-Known Member
is there a way to do frame connectors without having to cut into the floor? im willing to build them myself, in fact id rather. also will round tube work?
805moparkid
Slant and AFX Guy
everybody goes to so much work to make these...
ok so on one end of a peice of 2x2 .120 wall square tubing
put a slice in each corner and bend out,so it fits on/around the torsion bar cross member
then make a 45* cut on the rear. make the longest side on top with about an ich past the rear sub frame...
then weld...
no cutting of the floor or nothing... i can get better pics monday if you like..
have a car on the rotisserie...
ok so on one end of a peice of 2x2 .120 wall square tubing
put a slice in each corner and bend out,so it fits on/around the torsion bar cross member
then make a 45* cut on the rear. make the longest side on top with about an ich past the rear sub frame...
then weld...
no cutting of the floor or nothing... i can get better pics monday if you like..
have a car on the rotisserie...
scampy72
Well-Known Member
cool thanks, some better pics would help if you could. i also dont exactly understand what you mean when you say
"put a slice in each corner and bend out,so it fits on/around the torsion bar cross member"
thanks
marc
"put a slice in each corner and bend out,so it fits on/around the torsion bar cross member"
thanks
marc
805moparkid
Slant and AFX Guy
i'll get better pics for you... lol...
and yes... no floor mods other then a little hammer/dolly to flatten it out...
pettybludart
Well-Known Member
Look at A-body Joes pics,it,s real easy to do if you have any metal work knowledge.Saves $100 doing yourself.
View attachment car pics 66 Dart 071.jpg
abodyjoe
Well-Known Member
this is how i did mine. no floor cutting at all.. http://www.bigblockdart.com/techpages/connectors.shtml
scampy72
Well-Known Member
thanks you guys are awesome. ill probably end up making a set, as a side note would i be able to route my exhaust through them to eliminate the need for a hanger? i was gonna go out the side with them anyway kida like on a challenge T/A
805moparkid
Slant and AFX Guy
ok here are the pics...
megajoltman
Time to NUT UP or SHUT UP
MileHighDart
Well-Known Member
OK, I'll jump in here.
I did my own subframe connectors. I tried to model them after the Hotchkis connectors, with a few changes.
I used 1-1/2" X 2-1/2" rectangular tubing, 1/8" wall thickness.
I'll let the pics speak for themselves, but basically I welded a flat plate to the front to weld to the crossmember, and another small plate underneath for more weld area at the front.
My connectors dont come through the floor, they fit tight up against the floor. I did make one small modification to the floor as you can see in one of the pics. I cut down the center of one of the "ribs" on the floor, then hammered it flat, welded it back together and covered it with seam sealer. This lets the connector sit higher up against the floor.
I beveled and capped the rear of the connector so it fits tight up against the front of the rear subframe.
I then cut plates out of 1/8" stock, that weld to the sides of the connector at the rear, and surround the rear subframe, these plates are welded to the sides of the rear-sub.
In these pics the connector still need another piece of 1/8" plate welded to the bottom of the rear section to finish it off.
Here are the pics in no peticular order.
I did my own subframe connectors. I tried to model them after the Hotchkis connectors, with a few changes.
I used 1-1/2" X 2-1/2" rectangular tubing, 1/8" wall thickness.
I'll let the pics speak for themselves, but basically I welded a flat plate to the front to weld to the crossmember, and another small plate underneath for more weld area at the front.
My connectors dont come through the floor, they fit tight up against the floor. I did make one small modification to the floor as you can see in one of the pics. I cut down the center of one of the "ribs" on the floor, then hammered it flat, welded it back together and covered it with seam sealer. This lets the connector sit higher up against the floor.
I beveled and capped the rear of the connector so it fits tight up against the front of the rear subframe.
I then cut plates out of 1/8" stock, that weld to the sides of the connector at the rear, and surround the rear subframe, these plates are welded to the sides of the rear-sub.
In these pics the connector still need another piece of 1/8" plate welded to the bottom of the rear section to finish it off.
Here are the pics in no peticular order.
scottylack
Well-Known Member
Auto Rust Tech in Rhode Island made mine and was featured in Mopar Enthusiast a year or so ago....
-
