Show Us Your 318 Combos

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MOPARJ

MOPARJ

What can I upgrade now?
Joined
Nov 3, 2006
Messages
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Location
Thousand Oaks, Ca
Ok, we have seen threads looking into those who have Slant, 273, and big block combos. Lets see everyones 318 combos. If you have it, show the following:

1) Engine components
2) power/torque (if available)
3) Photos
4) Drag times/ time slips


I don't know how many will post, but lets see.
 
Well, I'll start off with my '74 Duster with a '79 318, 904 and 3.21 suregrip equiped rear sporting 225/70/14 tires.

From top to bottom;

MP resto unsilenced air cleaner
625 Carter AFB emission carb
Edelbrock LD4B dual plane
A split pattern Crane cam specd at;
Advertised 272/284
Dur. @ .050 216/228
lift; .454/.480 on a 112 centerline installed straight up.
Crane valve springs on stock heads and valves
Hooker Comp Headers (1-5/8) w/ Jegs A body 2-1/2 exhaust.
Electric fan
Deleate;
Mechanical fan and A/C pump

Orange box fired, B&M shifter added.

1/4 mile performance with basic tune
(read rich and ruff timed, but acceptable for daily useage on 87 octane)
15.14 @ 89 mph

Mileage; 17 Hwy (almost 18, real close) 13 around town. Driven everyday all day no matter what it is doing outside.

I have not furtherly tested the car at the track. Though I do beileve theres some high 14's in it, no problem.

Additional items to be used for both performance and mileage would be;
Better converter, MSD, shift kit and wider tires since I was spinning them outta the hole.

This was a "On the cheap" project. I feel this can be copied, easy, for anyone including the beginner/novice/aspiring hot rodder looking to upgrade a lowly average people mover 318 into something enjoyable and fun.

Also, notice theres no compresion increase and no porting on the heads.
For further details, click this ---> http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=10508

More to come.... I hope.
 
My 318 I got from a friend that was out of his dads '85 150 van for free.

Block bored .030 over, decked, stock rods and crank, .010 under, balanced
ARP rod and head bolts
TRW-8k285ncp30 pistons
Heads are stock 302's with a good valve job and back-cut
crane valve springs
lunati voodoo camshaft 60401 lift .454 in./.475 exh.
duration @ .050 213 in./220 exh.
lsa 112 installed straight up
Weiand stealth intake
Edelbrock 1406 carb.
Mallory unilite ignition
TTI headers with magnaflow mufflers 2-1/2''
timing set to 14 initial and 34 total in at about 2,800

no times as of yet since the first 904 bit the dust. runs great and can sit in cali traffic all day and not skip a beat.
 
Rob,

My cam is very similar, maybe just a touch more on the aggressive side with its 110 LSA.

I have little tire spin when launching, mainly due to the 235/70/15 tires, but with the 2500 stall, I can bring the revs up to 2500-2700 rpm and the back tires will fry with ease.

With minimal tuning, I have run a 14.7 and 14.8 with 3.21 gears. Stock heads, stock cast pistons. Sucks 87 fuel without complaint, drives nice and gets decent mileage.

I know there are a gazillion more 318 owners out there. Post em' up!
 
Here's one I've been piecing together over the last few months.

Stock block, unbored, stock rods, original pistons at their factory deck height, staying in the car as I bolt stuff to it. Not sure how far down in the hole the slugs are, hoping for no more than .060. I plan to measure when the stock heads come off. Pro Form sells chaep engine building tools.

So far I have an LD4B intake. Planning on running the heat block-off gaskets with it.

I have a set of untouched '302' heads. Debating on picking up a set of 360 heads and having them milled to get the chambers at the right volume for the 318. That seems to be the big debate on 318's besides intakes, which heads. If you want a hot rod 318 with factory iron heads, it's either a set of ported 302's with larger 1.88/1.60 valves installed or 360 heads milled .040" or so.

Basically decided on the Mopar .450 cam. Guys seem to knock the Mopar cams for being old and seem to favor more 'modern' designs, but they work regardless. The other one I considered was the Hughes Whiplash. Both cams made very similar power on Desktop Dyno 2K.

Carb will be either a Carter 9636 or Holley 4160/1850. I like the Holley, you can convert it to a 4150 pretty easily. Quick Fuel sells a cool adjustable secondary spring kit.

Exhaust will be cheapo Summit headers into a full dual exhaust with an h-pipe that's already on the car.

Removed A/C and power steering and went to single-groove pullies.

I'm actually planning on setting up my chassis before I throw a lot of power at it, thus my mild combo (read = cheap). I have a 4.10 rear gear and just purchased a low gear set for my 904. The low gear effectively puts my final drive in first gear to an equivalent of approx. 4.56. Plans for a better convetrer are in the works too, probably just a Mopar 166K for now which stalls somewhere around 2,350 or so. Hopefully I can workout a set of
Cal Tracs this winter too. Frame connectors are obvious.

Hope this stuff will help propel my 318-equipt Dart into the 13's.

Good info here: http://www.buschis-place.de/mopar_318cui_performance.htm
 
Currently running all I have is a 2bbl 318.......

Balanced, stock 69 heads, ported, manifold matched, forged pistons, windage tray, double roller chain, 260 ISKY cam.

Runs great, get great MPG.
 
MoparJ; My engine likes 89. Pings otherwise. I beileve it due to the MP distributors quick advance and lack of vacuum can adjustabilty. I know, it should have came with it.
I also need a vert and tires. Shift kit was next on the list.

rmchrgr; I have both the same carbs in house now. The Holley was converted over to a 4150. I would have ran that but something got gummed up inside and I had to take it off to see what was going on inside. Grrrrrrr
Swapped on the Carter 9636 and went racing.
 
Nothing fancy here man. I have a basically stock rebuilt 318 with milled heads and a mild cam backed by a 904 with a shift kit in my 74 Dodge Dart. It's purely a street car so I have never timed myself in the quarter mile. I would love to get on a dyno to see how much HP/Torque I'm getting. I would hope at least 250HP with some good torque.
 
so the cam is not for sure but is sumthing like a 454-463 lift rest unknown
625 holley avenger
holley performer intake
chrome box w/msd coil
j heads ported twice unknown #'s prev. owner had em done
large tube tti's w/3in. h pipe all the way back
rv converter, tci 904 that shifts pretty tire chirping hard
3.91s
pistons are 20 over and in the hole by alot so i say compression is around 8

sorry for sum the round bout numbers but hey its a daily. she has run 15.38 at 81

car would run much better w/ smaller heads and exaust. w/more compression.. video down here

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Px6M6ByufU0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EifE1a0KgDE
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rumblefish360 said:
MoparJ; My engine likes 89. Pings otherwise. I beileve it due to the MP distributors quick advance and lack of vacuum can adjustabilty. I know, it should have came with it.
I also need a vert and tires. Shift kit was next on the list.

rmchrgr; I have both the same carbs in house now. The Holley was converted over to a 4150. I would have ran that but something got gummed up inside and I had to take it off to see what was going on inside. Grrrrrrr
Swapped on the Carter 9636 and went racing.
Click to expand...

Rob,

Intersting: I am running the same dizzy with no adjustments to the vaccuum can. I am running 15-16 initial timing and no pinging, unless its so quiet that I cannot hear it.

-Justin
 
LJS30 said:
Nothing fancy here man. I have a basically stock rebuilt 318 with milled heads and a mild cam backed by a 904 with a shift kit in my 74 Dodge Dart. It's purely a street car so I have never timed myself in the quarter mile. I would love to get on a dyno to see how much HP/Torque I'm getting. I would hope at least 250HP with some good torque.
Click to expand...

Depending on cam, you should be 250-260, with 320-330 torque.
 
Back about 15 years ago, I built a 318 for my 70 duster, which was my daily driver back then. The build was basically a std rebuild with headers and a small blue racer cam, dont remember the specs, but it was real close to the 340 stock specs. The engine was a 73, used the same heads and all, but went with a cast iron thermoquad intake and a very well tuned thermoquad. It had a 904, with a torque convertor from a slant six trans, and an 8 1/4 with 3:21 gears, 245/60/14 street tires and a weight of about 3100 lbs. It ran a best et of 8.91 in the eighth mile at about 80 mph. Drove it all over. I allways thought it was pretty peppy for a home built stock type rebuild.
 
stock 318
509 purple shaft
273 adjustible rockers arms
unported 318 heads
hooker headers
torker 340 manifold
650 dp
3k stall

use to run really good when i had the 411s
thats all i think mite be forgetting something

this is the only pic i could fined not the best qaulity and this was with the performer rpm manifold

100_0671.jpg
 
mopardads67 said:
ok school me why do you use the /6 convertor
Click to expand...


A torque converter (/6 in this case) will produce a higher stall with more power.

A /6 torque converter is designed to propel the car effectivly with the amount of power being put into it from the engine and along with the cars weight, gear ratio and tire size.


When you increase the stall of a converter, we know that you can launch off the line quicker. This is an easy, cheap way to increase the stall of a converter behnd your V-8. The more torque, the more stall you can get out of it. But there is a limit. If there wasn't, there would be alot less in the aftermarket. LOL
 
Basically stock bottom end with +.030 flat-top pistons, some 302 heads, Comp XE262H (I think) cam, edelbrock performer with a 1" spacer and edelbrock 1406 carb with Dougs headers. Run's pretty good
 
my friends father has a 73 duster with a std bore 318 10 to 1 comp mildly ported j heads 202 valves 509 cam 727 trans 3000 stall 8 3/4 with 456 gears a 29 by 9 hooser quick time pro tire weights 3100 and change and has been running 1290's in good weather and 1320's in the heat
 
Mines a 81 318 blocked bored 40 zerodecked, K.B.167 pistons, balanced, Has a crane dualpattern cam 474-454 lift,weiand dualplane intake 625 edle.thunder carb. Brand x eletronic ingnition, Old cremica hookerhedders from the 80's 1 5/8 with 2 1/2 pipes out the back, Areo 360 heads 202-168 vavles no porting 355 suregrip 904 that i modifid has run a 8.82 in the 1/8 in a 71 dart
 
LJS30 said:
That would be very nice. I would take those numbers proudly for my street car.
Click to expand...


Although it is not at the power level of a 340 or 360 modified, it is still more powerful than 70-80 percent of what is on the road to today and probably quicker than about 60%, so there is good reason to be proud. Plus, old cars are just plain cool.
 
rumblefish360 said:
A torque converter (/6 in this case) will produce a higher stall with more power.

A /6 torque converter is designed to propel the car effectivly with the amount of power being put into it from the engine and along with the cars weight, gear ratio and tire size.


When you increase the stall of a converter, we know that you can launch off the line quicker. This is an easy, cheap way to increase the stall of a converter behnd your V-8. The more torque, the more stall you can get out of it. But there is a limit. If there wasn't, there would be alot less in the aftermarket. LOL
Click to expand...

Ok ...Thanks for the info,one other question if you don't mind...does the /6 convertor need weights or not
 
That would depend on what the balance of the engine will be, internal or external. You can rebalnce a 360 to internal if you want.
I don't think the /6 is external. I really don't know for sure, but I never remember hearing it was external.
 
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