Since Strokers are the topic......

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superdart

Shade Tree Tinker Gnome.....
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I'm killing some time at work (slow holidays) continuing to look at future engine stuff for the M880. My buddy has been running numbers with his dyno software. I assume the numbers are a bit optimistic, although he knows what he's doing.

My current 318 (stock engine, with 4 bbl, intake and block hugger headers) compared to change with to zero deck KB167 pistons and a 212/218 cam. Of course head work, and a better cam (like one of those mentioned in my 318 Torque thread) may net better torque results.
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Here is what he came up with using one of the available 390 stroker kits, using reworked iron heads. This seems like the kind of torque curve I want in a full time 4wd Power Wagon, if not a bit excessive....but I'd like the ability to tow something (like a car) without issue. I'd like to save money where possible, but not trying to pinch pennies, either. Buying a kit is the easiest, but are there budget kits I'm only shooting for 9:1 and a life under 4500 RPMs?

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And just to be silly....here is a 318 compared to his new MPFI 541.:lol:

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2021-12-29 12.57.37.jpg
 
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The strokers are great in heavy trucks if built exactly like you are planning to do. In the M880, I would recommend doing a mile marker part time four wheel drive kit in the 203 along with lockout hubs or swapping in a 205 (best option, used in 3/4 and full tons!) 208, or 231 transfer case.
 
Buy a balanced Scat cast crank stroker kit with hypereutectic Pistons.

not going over 5500 rpm. And under 425 HP
 
I would recommend doing a mile marker part time four wheel drive kit in the 203 along with lockout hubs or swapping in a 205 (best option, used in 3/4 and full tons!) 208, or 231 transfer case.

I've read mixed reviews on the Mile Marker. I wish they still made the shaft kit. I may go with a 518 OD if building the stroker, and that it may require a 241 xfer case.... still reading up on that one.

Buy a balanced Scat cast crank stroker kit with hypereutectic Pistons.

That's what I'm hoping to find. Just haven't stumbled on one yet. Everything seems to be forged.
 
For my 71 Sweptline I combined the 203 and 205. You get the 205 strength with a 203 gear reduction. The three transfer case levers will confuse any possible thief’s.
 
The dyno sim is fairly accurate though a optimistic part choice can give optimistic results. Entering accurate data with the cam, head porting flow cfm numbers, honest intake choice can less to crazy power returns. I don’t have an issue with what I see on the sim.
 
For my 71 Sweptline I combined the 203 and 205. You get the 205 strength with a 203 gear reduction. The three transfer case levers will confuse any possible thief’s.
Off Road Design Doubler setup? I especially like the triple shifter setup because of the front wheel drive only capability.
 
I've read mixed reviews on the Mile Marker. I wish they still made the shaft kit. I may go with a 518 OD if building the stroker, and that it may require a 241 xfer case.... still reading up on that one.

a 205 will bolt right up to the 518 as long as the spline count is the same on both pieces.
 
That's good to know. A bodies I'm pretty good with.....all this 4wd interchangability is new territory for me.
 
In an M880 doing a lot of towing, a full ton 205 would be my preference along with the full ton rear drive line and differential yokes. The dana 44 up front is okay if you're not doing anything crazy off road. If you install lockouts, put a mini spool in it. You can engage the right hub for road driving in four wheel drive. If it gets ugly, lock in the left hub. And don't forget the grease fitting for the front hubs. If you upgrade from the grease fitting hub axle, you can install an ‘85 and up CAD type axle and install the cable kit that engages the left drive line along with the mini spool. That lets you leave both hubs locked for winter traveling and then you have four wheel drive and left axle lock on demand from the drivers seat.
@Moparpuller, that's a good looking pull truck in your avatar. What kind of combination you running there?
 
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That's what I'm hoping to find. Just haven't stumbled on one yet. Everything seems to be forged.

there are Scat cast crank kits out there.

Is it non forged pistons part that tough? They might just have those for Ohio cast cranks based kits.

Then just pay a little more for forged pistons. Otherwise piecing everything together, you’ll loose the kit discount and be back where you started.
 
In the restoration part of this forum I'm going through all of this in my 74 dream truck...
First the scat balance stroker kit I went ahead and got the forged pistons instead of the cast. You never know what the future may bring LOL Summit has them both... $1,400 for one or $1,550 for the other I spent the extra $150...
Of course I started with a 360 block instead of a 318. Years ago when I wanted to do a 318 and the Pistons actually cost $150 more because they weren't as common as the 360 and that 360 block core was 150 bucks so at that point it was a no-brainer to get the extra cubic inches for free.. prices may have changed...
As far as the transfer case I did the JB fabrication twin sticks in my 205 giving 7-way capability... My son has a 76 Power Wagon and I would like to do the two wheel drive option because of the all-time four-wheel drive...
PXL_20211016_180309520.jpg
PXL_20211228_000256244.jpg

Again all the pictures could be seen in my build thread and the restoration part of the Forum...
 
In the restoration part of this forum I'm going through all of this in my 74 dream truck...
First the scat balance stroker kit I went ahead and got the forged pistons instead of the cast. You never know what the future may bring LOL Summit has them both... $1,400 for one or $1,550 for the other I spent the extra $150...
Of course I started with a 360 block instead of a 318. Years ago when I wanted to do a 318 and the Pistons actually cost $150 more because they weren't as common as the 360 and that 360 block core was 150 bucks so at that point it was a no-brainer to get the extra cubic inches for free.. prices may have changed...
As far as the transfer case I did the JB fabrication twin sticks in my 205 giving 7-way capability... My son has a 76 Power Wagon and I would like to do the two wheel drive option because of the all-time four-wheel drive...
View attachment 1715844579View attachment 1715844580
Again all the pictures could be seen in my build thread and the restoration part of the Forum...

Oh, that’s why he’s seeing less piston selection… it’s 318 based.

that makes sense.

And good point about taking 3 steps backs and looking at the Total Cost. If it’s $250 more for a 318 forged piston kit than a 360 cast piston kit… think about finding a $250 local core 360. If you only find $600 cores locally, then forget it.
 
Oh, that’s why he’s seeing less piston selection… it’s 318 based.

that makes sense.

And good point about taking 3 steps backs and looking at the Total Cost. If it’s $250 more for a 318 forged piston kit than a 360 cast piston kit… think about finding a $250 local core 360. If you only find $600 cores locally, then forget it.
I was hell bent on stroking the 318 and when I talked to the machine shop that was going to do the work they said they had 360 cores for 150 bucks... That right there guaranteed that it was going to be a good core. I just took my car in this last year for the stroker for my truck build and he said he can't find them...
 
Actually the core that I used for my current truck build was an engine that I bought on Craigslist for 50 bucks that was close by. I sold the car oil pan and pick up tube for 50 bucks.. I used the engine mounts on it for my car.. I used the heads that were on it for a 318 I built for my wife and eventually sold... I rebuilt the 904 transmission that came with it for free and sold it with that 318 LOL.. it's like the $50 Craigslist deal that never stopped giving..
 
Oh, that’s why he’s seeing less piston selection… it’s 318 based.

that makes sense.

And good point about taking 3 steps backs and looking at the Total Cost. If it’s $250 more for a 318 forged piston kit than a 360 cast piston kit… think about finding a $250 local core 360. If you only find $600 cores locally, then forget it.
stroker kits fit a poly 318 ?? :realcrazy:
 
I've had thoughts of mess'n with a Poly... but what would I put it in ?
 
In an M880 doing a lot of towing, a full ton 205 would be my preference along with the full ton rear drive line and differential yokes. The dana 44 up front is okay if you're not doing anything crazy off road. If you install lockouts, put a mini spool in it. You can engage the right hub for road driving in four wheel drive. If it gets ugly, lock in the left hub. And don't forget the grease fitting for the front hubs. If you upgrade from the grease fitting hub axle, you can install an ‘85 and up CAD type axle and install the cable kit that engages the left drive line along with the mini spool. That lets you leave both hubs locked for winter traveling and then you have four wheel drive and left axle lock on demand from the drivers seat.
@Moparpuller, that's a good looking pull truck in your avatar. What kind of combination you running there?
It’s a 12.5-1 360 with w2s and a strip dominator and a 1050 dominator. Solid roller with Harland sharps. Will be ordering a Ritter block at some point and building something around 400 inches with a 3.79 stroke. Dana 60 front gm 14bolt rear with a 205 and 435 trans
 
You can make well over 500hp with hyperutectics...they just dont tolerate detonation/pinging...at any compression ratio or power level.
 
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Off Road Design Doubler setup? I especially like the triple shifter setup because of the front wheel drive only capability.
I used the Northwest Fab setup so I wouldn't have to machine the 205 case for a larger input shaft. I than used JB Custom shifter assembly.
 
It’s a 12.5-1 360 with w2s and a strip dominator and a 1050 dominator. Solid roller with Harland sharps. Will be ordering a Ritter block at some point and building something around 400 inches with a 3.79 stroke. Dana 60 front gm 14bolt rear with a 205 and 435 trans

That’s close to my setup. I have a D70 rear with a Detroit Locker. D60 front with an Eaton Electric Locker. 4.10 gears & 33’s. Divorced 205 with a 435.

What clutch are you using? Do you have lockers? What gears and tires?
I’ll be pulling for the first time this year… never done it…
 
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That’s close to my setup. I have a D70 rear with a Detroit Locker. D60 front with an Eaton Electric Locker. 4.10 gears & 33’s. Divorced 205 with a 435.

What clutch are you using? Do you have lockers? What gears and tires?
I’ll be pulling for the first time this year… never done it…
We run spools in the rear and lockers in the front. 4.10s and 33s. Bfg a/ts work really well at 90 percent of the track. We also run truxus sts I run in second with the case in low. Using a McLeod dual disc slipper that starts engaging on its own at around 6000 rpm It’s an adrenaline rush. The faster you can get the sled moving the better off you’ll be. What engine are you running?
 
We run spools in the rear and lockers in the front. 4.10s and 33s. Bfg a/ts work really well at 90 percent of the track. We also run truxus sts I run in second with the case in low. Using a McLeod dual disc slipper that starts engaging on its own at around 6000 rpm It’s an adrenaline rush. The faster you can get the sled moving the better off you’ll be. What engine are you running?
Thanks a lot for that info! I have Nitto 33x13.5x15 mud grapplers.
I have a 408 stroker, forged scat crank, H beams, forged CP pistons. 9:1 compression. Trick flow heads, Harland Sharp rockers and a street solid roller cam. Topped with a little 162 B&M supercharger pushing 3 psi. Dyno’d at 574 HP & 580 Ft Lbs. 6” crank pulley and a 2.5” driven pulley. I’m spinning the blower fast, I’m a little concerned with the heat of the blower the length of the track. Lol. Maybe it won’t be a problem.

5B64BC69-A66C-4AAE-BA7B-1DEDA29BA42E.jpeg
 
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