single field to dual isolated field alt

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rrvolare

rrvolare

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Well i have tried making single field work on my 69 Swinger ... 3rd cir board voltage regulator needed .... lasts about 3 weeks and then max charge .. New alt , new regulators , new harness ... no success ... Seems that Pertronix could be culprit ...
Any ideas prior to converting ?
 
rrvolare said:
Well i have tried making single field work on my 69 Swinger ... 3rd cir board voltage regulator needed .... lasts about 3 weeks and then max charge .. New alt , new regulators , new harness ... no success ... Seems that Pertronix could be culprit ...
Any ideas prior to converting ?
Click to expand...
Does Pertronix offer a tech support line? I would think that if everything is wired correctly and the parts are good quality then it should stay working. When you first got it working, How many Volts were you getting? At Battery? At Voltage regulator? Overcharging can fry stuff pretty quickly and even explode a battery.
 
Alternater and system voltage regulater are not the same circuit as the instrument voltage regulater. you have 2 or more seperate problems.
 
RedFish is right, I was thinking maybe an overcharging situation was frying the Instrument panel Voltage Regulator??
 
OwdKasd said:
RedFish is right, I was thinking maybe an overcharging situation was frying the Instrument panel Voltage Regulator??
Click to expand...

I doubt thats the case. A modern solid state regulator should function with supplied voltage from 7 to 35. Over charging can fry about anything though.
I imagine some screwed up stuff in the instrument panel can kill the instrument voltage regulators and cause the overcharging too.
Without knowing what panel it is and a lot more details... who knows ?
 
What specifically are you using for a regulator?

Have you checked charging voltage when it "seems" to be working?

It might be something like (example) a shorted turn in the alternator field, which would cause the field to draw excessive current, not charge efficiently, and of course the regulator would have to supply MORE field current to get the output, so =--------hard on regulators

There is a figure for field current in the shop manuals. If you cannot find it, I'll have to look it up
 
Another voltage regulator ... i ran a dedicated grd from VR case to bulk head ( non painted surface ) and will monitor ... Alt was completely overhauled awhile back by a specialty shop ... DOUBT there is an issue ...
 
What do you mean "another regulator?"

Isn't it about time you started paying attention?

Have you measured rotor current draw?

Where/ what brand are you buying?

What is the charging voltage running at the battery?
 
I am installing the elec board style VR101 ( silver box ) , which allows me to take cover off and install the original black cover ...
NEW alt, NEW battery , New engine harness , New eng to block grd ... I made all necessary measurements prior ... gauge reads OK ... COULD THIS BE the PERTRONIX elec stage 3 system ?
 
rrvolare said:
I am installing the elec board style VR101 ( silver box ) , which allows me to take cover off and install the original black cover ...
NEW alt, NEW battery , New engine harness , New eng to block grd ... I made all necessary measurements prior ... gauge reads OK ... COULD THIS BE the PERTRONIX elec stage 3 system ?
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why would your ignition system cause the alternator to overcharge? have you checked the large red wire in your harness that comes from the bulkhead? there should be full battery voltage at the wire

I know you said harness is new but is it new or new to the car?

is the shop your taking it to any good? did they show you the test results?

I had an alternator on a newer Chrysler that went bad, instead of replacing ($200) I had it rebuilt ($40) worked great till you turned a/c on then it would stop charging

took alternator back 3 times the 3 time it had caught fire and was no good what-so-ever

he replaced it and I sold it to someone and bought the $200 alternator and haven't touched it since
 
COMPLETELY RESTORED OVERHAULED by a company that has been in business for as long as i have known ...
I will make necessary measurements again and post this weekend ...
WHY Pertronix... because it seems like it all started shortly after ...
 
Well, gee, if it started after I installed the Pertronics - I would UNinstall the Pertronix. Of course, as always, I might be wrong....

BC
 
I asked for suggestions .. and now i am getting smart remarks ... FIRST of all .. parts that i have replaced i did not shot gun other than CHINA regulators .... ALL other components were for restoration purposes .. I know how to check volts/ohms/current draws... if i didn't ... i wouldn't be FIXING todays cars from my office for so called techs that cannot fix them in a dealerships... SO i think i know what i am doing as for as electronics ... AGAIN all basics are done ...THIS IS AN INTERMITTENT concern that all of a sudden happens ... by the time i catch it ... regulators circuitry is damaged ...
Again thanks for the BASICS ... I will let you know what the cause is once i get it resolved ...
 
Well I asked you about alternator rotor current draw and you completely ignored the question.

So if you cannot check the BASICS I guess WE can't help you

If you want to settle down, PAY ATTENTION, and actually answer specific questions some of us asked you, then we might be able to do something, here

I would do THREE things

1 CHECK rotor current draw!!!!!

2 "Rig" a temporary wire from battery to regulator IGN terminal to check charging voltage

3 Change your supplier of regulators. Consider buying a quality one instead. The NAPA VR-1001 is expensive but works, AND you could use it on the later alternator by simply grounding one field terminal
 
Thank you ... that is what i was looking for ... NAPA Vr1001 ... which i thought was same quality regulator i was installing on my car ... but after researching the net... the "VR101" i installed is made by WELLS .. several people are saying that this product fails repeatedly ... i just call NAPA and have a "VR1001" on order and will be picking it up in am ... the price also shows the difference in quality ... less than 20 dollars compared to 85 dollars ... but the guy gave me a better deal at 57 bucks...
I have stated in the conversation the style regulator i installed and PART NUMBER ... AND it finally clicked in 67DART273 ... you finally gave me a BETTER quality p/n regulator ... SO before you claim that i was not listening to what you were saying several times ... go way back in the conversation and see ... that you did not listen to what i was saying .... instead you tried schooling me on electronics 101...
 
rrvolare said:
... instead you tried schooling me on electronics 101...
Click to expand...

Well maybe you need it.

You STILL have not answered my questions..................

Did you check ignition voltage drop to the regulator?

Did you check rotor current draw?

Throwing new parts at a problem is NEVER my first choice................
 
67Dart273 said:
Well maybe you need it.

You STILL have not answered my questions..................

Did you check ignition voltage drop to the regulator?

Did you check rotor current draw?

Throwing new parts at a problem is NEVER my first choice................
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x2 just burn up new parts and never fix the problem. even if the wells parts fail there is something causing it.

I had an old timer tell me this once and I believe it to be true " electronics seldomly commit suicide, most times they are murdered by something else thats not suspected"
 
I suggest a test. Drive around for a while with the alternator disabled and see if the cluster Vreg still dies. To disable it, just unplug the field connector. Recharge the battery each night. If not using the headlights, it should run all day on the battery.

The charging circuit is fairly simple and robust, so unlikely the Pertronix III could affect it, but never say never with solid-state electronics. My guess would be a bad sense voltage at the alternator, due to voltage drops in the bulkhead connector and wiring, as 273 suggested.
 
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