skip white HEI timing issues

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70aarcuda said:
I guess we need to start a thread and pin it to the top....and everyone who wants to buy parts will need your approval........

and you wonder why people post less and less on here.....

ahh...nothing like the keyboard crew chiefs....
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Don't you mean "Chairborne Rangers"? :D
 
The only reason I asked about upper RPM was that I had an engine that was pretty unstable at idle, and it had a healthier cam. What was happening is that when it started loping, the centrifugal weights started kicking in and out. It really screwed with the timing at idle. Just putting that out there.
 
ya no i could buy 2 skip white dizzys and have a backup in case one goes bad and still have 200 bucks to buy something else Bakerlite deems a piece of **** and by the way ive already sent my mad 6al in to be fixed and they charged me 100 bucks i could have bought a pro comp or a street fire for that. But i didnt come here to argue with you just for some insight and most of you are being very helpful.
 
Brown wire on Dist goes to Green Wire on MSD
Brown wire with red tracer goes to Violet Wire on MSD...

check to make sure the carbon tit in the center of the cap is still there and has not fallen out..it should be making contact with the rotor...
 

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Well I did some playing last night nd switched the wires around and the the marks do move wen you switch the wires or change the polarity. I disconnected the fuel pump nd put the timing at 18 according to the balancer and it backfired nd popped thru the intake so I tried 15,10, 5, 0, but didn't run worth **** any where around there I even tried switching the wires out of curiosity nd same thing. So I took my plug out found absolute TDC #1 nd it lined up on my damper and the rotor lines with the #1 cap. So its mechanically in time the only way I can time it is if I do it by ear where it runs the best nd then the timing marks don't even show up. I also tried disconnecting the msd box nd using the GM 4 terminal module same **** it just don't make any sense
 
So have you pulled a valve cover and watched the rockers on #1 and #6 as you move past TDC? The balancer mark will be in the same place TDC compression or TDC exhaust. If the both rockers move on #1 you need to aim the rotor at #6. If none of the above your cam is out of time.
 
no i put my compression tester in #1 cylinder and waited for compression to come through the tube that way i knew i wasnt on 6 instead of 1 and afterward i out a screw driver in the hole to find the highest point of the piston so i should have it right
 
70aarcuda said:
I guess we need to start a thread and pin it to the top....and everyone who wants to buy parts will need your approval........

and you wonder why people post less and less on here.....

ahh...nothing like the keyboard crew chiefs....
Click to expand...

How about you have a look at some of the threads I've started and mechanical advice I've given and then ask yourself if I'm a keyboard crew chief.. ..
Guys like you don't give a toss about where parts come from ,the labor they use to make them or what industries they destroy along the way, nor do you care about the problems they can create in the builder to customer relationship (my world), as long as you have saved a few bucks by purchasing from the "Parts Pirates".
At the end of the day I'd rather be a supposed "keyboard crew chief" than have my judgment clouded by greed...
That guy could have bought a $300 dizzy if he really wanted to, all he had to do was save his bucks a little longer and then maybe he wouldn't even have the problem in the first place..
I know top end parts can fail, the last car I worked on for Drag Week, had an MSD pickup failure, but MSD were there because they are a Sponsor of the event and fixed it on the spot. Can't complain about that..
Procomp know they have a bad reputation.. why do you think they changed their name?? Geez.. Come on... really???
How many Procomp parts have I seen?
In my profession along the years I have seen plenty. From poorly cast and machined manifolds, poor head casting and machining, soft guides, other porous castings to broken rockers and adjusters, failed flex plates, distributors that work from 6 weeks to six months, CDI boxes that don't even work straight out of the package.
It was at it's worst when they first started flooding the market, but I have noticed less people using and asking about them, but that could just be because I don't do much work for tight asses anymore.
I also have a friend that used to work for the distributor of those parts on this side of the world, and wow the stories he tells... LOL... I remember when they were welding weights to the crank throws to try and get them to some sort of factory balance point. I'm not talking Mallory metal, I'm talking actual steel plate welded to the throws. Wow, did they make a mess when they came off, Didn't stop them from trying to sell them though..You want to back companies that do things like that, then be my guest.
If you think I have any sympathy for people who have problems with cheap cost saving parts then your dead wrong.
Then again a machinist I know loves those parts, he say's it's always easier to argue the extra machining \ repairing cost on a cheap Chinese part than it is on a brand name part..
Are we now clear on my position?
 
Muscley MOPAR said:
no i put my compression tester in #1 cylinder and waited for compression to come through the tube that way i knew i wasnt on 6 instead of 1 and afterward i out a screw driver in the hole to find the highest point of the piston so i should have it right
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Buy a TDC tool from Proform : where I would start. No guarantee on compression tests or leakdown testers here. You really need ,to find actual TDC & check that harmonic balancer ring. As for import stuff:It works, My standard go to is an OEM distributor, non digital MSD box. Used the Crane HI-6, nice stuff.
 
Bakerlite said:
How about you have a look at some of the threads I've started and mechanical advice I've given and then ask yourself if I'm a keyboard crew chief.. ..
Guys like you don't give a toss about where parts come from ,the labor they use to make them or what industries they destroy along the way, nor do you care about the problems they can create in the builder to customer relationship (my world), as long as you have saved a few bucks by purchasing from the "Parts Pirates".
At the end of the day I'd rather be a supposed "keyboard crew chief" than have my judgment clouded by greed...
That guy could have bought a $300 dizzy if he really wanted to, all he had to do was save his bucks a little longer and then maybe he wouldn't even have the problem in the first place..
I know top end parts can fail, the last car I worked on for Drag Week, had an MSD pickup failure, but MSD were there because they are a Sponsor of the event and fixed it on the spot. Can't complain about that..
Procomp know they have a bad reputation.. why do you think they changed their name?? Geez.. Come on... really???
How many Procomp parts have I seen?
In my profession along the years I have seen plenty. From poorly cast and machined manifolds, poor head casting and machining, soft guides, other porous castings to broken rockers and adjusters, failed flex plates, distributors that work from 6 weeks to six months, CDI boxes that don't even work straight out of the package.
It was at it's worst when they first started flooding the market, but I have noticed less people using and asking about them, but that could just be because I don't do much work for tight asses anymore.
I also have a friend that used to work for the distributor of those parts on this side of the world, and wow the stories he tells... LOL... I remember when they were welding weights to the crank throws to try and get them to some sort of factory balance point. I'm not talking Mallory metal, I'm talking actual steel plate welded to the throws. Wow, did they make a mess when they came off, Didn't stop them from trying to sell them though..You want to back companies that do things like that, then be my guest.
If you think I have any sympathy for people who have problems with cheap cost saving parts then your dead wrong.
Then again a machinist I know loves those parts, he say's it's always easier to argue the extra machining \ repairing cost on a cheap Chinese part than it is on a brand name part..
Are we now clear on my position?
Click to expand...

I was taught to modify stock parts,from a SS/A racer...
 
Blah, Blah ,Blah... I have used many procomp parts with zero issues. Its funny MSD has there stuff made exactly where procomp does and marks the crap up on there parts. I'll buy what fits my budget. I had a 73 Camaro with a 383 stroker pushing 450+ HP and it had pro comp aluminum heads and dizzy. Worked like a champ and kick the crap out of guys running those bad *** msd and eddy heads.. etc.. I'm not racing for money. Nor care to. I get what I can afford at the time and passes MY judgement not yours or anyone elses. The OP asked a question not your opinion on what he bought.
:finga:



Bakerlite said:
How about you have a look at some of the threads I've started and mechanical advice I've given and then ask yourself if I'm a keyboard crew chief.. ..
Guys like you don't give a toss about where parts come from ,the labor they use to make them or what industries they destroy along the way, nor do you care about the problems they can create in the builder to customer relationship (my world), as long as you have saved a few bucks by purchasing from the "Parts Pirates".
At the end of the day I'd rather be a supposed "keyboard crew chief" than have my judgment clouded by greed...
That guy could have bought a $300 dizzy if he really wanted to, all he had to do was save his bucks a little longer and then maybe he wouldn't even have the problem in the first place..
I know top end parts can fail, the last car I worked on for Drag Week, had an MSD pickup failure, but MSD were there because they are a Sponsor of the event and fixed it on the spot. Can't complain about that..
Procomp know they have a bad reputation.. why do you think they changed their name?? Geez.. Come on... really???
How many Procomp parts have I seen?
In my profession along the years I have seen plenty. From poorly cast and machined manifolds, poor head casting and machining, soft guides, other porous castings to broken rockers and adjusters, failed flex plates, distributors that work from 6 weeks to six months, CDI boxes that don't even work straight out of the package.
It was at it's worst when they first started flooding the market, but I have noticed less people using and asking about them, but that could just be because I don't do much work for tight asses anymore.
I also have a friend that used to work for the distributor of those parts on this side of the world, and wow the stories he tells... LOL... I remember when they were welding weights to the crank throws to try and get them to some sort of factory balance point. I'm not talking Mallory metal, I'm talking actual steel plate welded to the throws. Wow, did they make a mess when they came off, Didn't stop them from trying to sell them though..You want to back companies that do things like that, then be my guest.
If you think I have any sympathy for people who have problems with cheap cost saving parts then your dead wrong.
Then again a machinist I know loves those parts, he say's it's always easier to argue the extra machining \ repairing cost on a cheap Chinese part than it is on a brand name part..
Are we now clear on my position?
Click to expand...
 
64cudaV8 said:
Its funny MSD has there stuff made exactly where procomp does and marks the crap up on there parts.
Click to expand...

Guess they need to mark up the parts prices when you consider all the R&D work they do to bring you the product in the first place, and the products of the future, or have you forgotten about that. Guess you will just wait around until they clone those too, so it fits into your budget?
Let me ask you this, if you were producing a manifold and Procomp cloned it and put you on welfare, would you be happy about it? I guess the upside would be that you could buy your own manifold cheaper than you could actually produce it for yourself, that would be a money saver..
 
Can we get back on subject...and if you want to rant about Procomp parts..start your own thread........
 
Sure, we need to find out when this all started. Was the engine running OK before the changes to the ignition system? I think I read that he said the scatter was present before he changed the dizzy.
What other ignition parts dose he have handy to swap out and maybe be able to pinpoint where the problem is.
As posted earlier, too soft weight springs will cause scatter and erratic idle with a larger cam profile.
If it's scattering at higher RPM then I'd be looking at the ignition system first off.
 
Thank you aar! Well its sort of been a side project nd when the msd box took a **** last year I sent it up and they fixed it and I don't wanna say for sure but I thought maby it started after that but I can't say for sure...it did it with the OEM dizzy and it did it with the GM module...one thing I haven't done yet is try timing the motor with the new white dizzy by ear because Ive been stuck on trying to time it by the marks but mabey I'll try getting it to where it runs the best ignore what the marks say and see if the scatter is gone at high RPM...You would think that if I have compression on cylinder number 1 that would be my compression stroke therefore making it TDC 1 if it were TDC 6 I shouldn't have any compression coming out of number one, I don't no the whole thing isn't making sense to me I've timed hundreds of motors from big block dodges sbf sbc and its a simple procedure just none have had this high performance application, and hey mabey theres a issue with the "cheap" part doubt it since I've been having the issue before but if I save 250 bucks nd learn something along the way rather than thinking the more money you spent on your motor is gonna keep my 3200 dollar cheap parts motor from walking all over mommy nd daddy's z06 at the end of a quarter mile I'll take that and listen to the excuses after that, you cant put a price tag on gaining knowledge from the experience...sorry got keyboard happy there I'll hit it tomorrow nd see wat happens
 
I'd go back to basics if you can. Mopar dizzy, standard control box and coil if you have one to try. Even a points dizzy to verify your timing marks and engine condition .
A piston stop will allow you to find TDC for sure, but if you think that the timing marks are ok and the balancer has not shifted then I'll take your word for it.
 
Bakerlite said:
LOL, and let me guess what that budget always is...
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You don't know me so don't even pretend to know my budget. You seem like one of those guys out at car shows that whisper about everything that's wrong with someone car, yet doesn't have **** there. Its always being worked on.. :tool:
 
Do like what was said above...watch NO. 1 intake valve...watch it close...then as the timing marks come around...that I NO. 1 TDC firing..point the rotor at No. 1 on the cap...and fire it...
 
64cudaV8 said:
You don't know me so don't even pretend to know my budget. You seem like one of those guys out at car shows that whisper about everything that's wrong with someone car, yet doesn't have **** there. Its always being worked on.. :tool:
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LOL, .. judging from your response, I'm spot on.
You don't have to be Caesar to know Caesar...
Car shows..LOL.. The only car shows I go to, judge two cars at a time..
 
My point made. you drive **** buckets with a motor. Your banter is invalid.
 
i put my taylor thunder wires on and pulled my breather to look at number 1 rockers and on compresion stroke they stay closed and the timing mark on the balancer lined up and the cap and rotor lined up on #1...one thing i did find was when i put the taylors on, my autolite plugs have a screw on tip and every one of them was way loose so i tightened them all nice and tight with a needle nose and i fired it up and it actually ran in the correct timing position rather than backfiring and sputtering like before. i timed it at about 15 16 idle and when i i throttled it to about 4 5 grand it was around 35 degrees and this time the mark stayed put and didnt bounce everywhere. it still has a bit of a miss at higher RPM but thats as far as i got yesterday then i had to work on my ramcharger i might try do it by ear from there and see if i can smooth it out and check where the marks are then, but their at least close now and i dont think im getting the spark scatter hopefully making progress not real sure why its working now possibly the loose tip i dont know ill check into it a little deeper monday night
 
Muscley MOPAR said:
i put my taylor thunder wires on and pulled my breather to look at number 1 rockers and on compresion stroke they stay closed and the timing mark on the balancer lined up and the cap and rotor lined up on #1...one thing i did find was when i put the taylors on, my autolite plugs have a screw on tip and every one of them was way loose so i tightened them all nice and tight with a needle nose and i fired it up and it actually ran in the correct timing position rather than backfiring and sputtering like before. i timed it at about 15 16 idle and when i i throttled it to about 4 5 grand it was around 35 degrees and this time the mark stayed put and didnt bounce everywhere. it still has a bit of a miss at higher RPM but thats as far as i got yesterday then i had to work on my ramcharger i might try do it by ear from there and see if i can smooth it out and check where the marks are then, but their at least close now and i dont think im getting the spark scatter hopefully making progress not real sure why its working now possibly the loose tip i dont know ill check into it a little deeper monday night
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"Loose tips don't sink ships" or something like that. :D
 
Muscley MOPAR said:
i put my taylor thunder wires on and pulled my breather to look at number 1 rockers and on compresion stroke they stay closed and the timing mark on the balancer lined up and the cap and rotor lined up on #1...one thing i did find was when i put the taylors on, my autolite plugs have a screw on tip and every one of them was way loose so i tightened them all nice and tight with a needle nose and i fired it up and it actually ran in the correct timing position rather than backfiring and sputtering like before. i timed it at about 15 16 idle and when i i throttled it to about 4 5 grand it was around 35 degrees and this time the mark stayed put and didnt bounce everywhere. it still has a bit of a miss at higher RPM but thats as far as i got yesterday then i had to work on my ramcharger i might try do it by ear from there and see if i can smooth it out and check where the marks are then, but their at least close now and i dont think im getting the spark scatter hopefully making progress not real sure why its working now possibly the loose tip i dont know ill check into it a little deeper monday night
Click to expand...

Sounds like you are many progress....good job
 
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