Slamming trunk. Easy fix?

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Greg D.

Greg D.

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Hi all… I’ve searched for similar issues, but not seeing anything on this. I have a ‘64 dart gt and when closing the trunk I have to slam it, and sometimes multiple times to get it to latch. I know that like a hood there are multiple adjustment points which can go out of whack pretty quickly. Any quick things to check or replace before I dig in? (Or just leave it, if that is the best advice).

When it is latched it stays latched. It fully opens and stays open. All that is fine. I did recently change the weather stripping. The previous stripping was awful. Yes it’s a bit harder to close now, but I had to slam it before. Opening is easy… “pops” right open.

Thanks in advance. Greg.
 
After it is closed and you turn the key to open it, does it take a lot of force to turn the key?
 
The new weatherstriping is the issue. Slightly adjust the latch, and after a while all will be good! When opening the trunk, push down on it as you turn the key!
I installed the windlace weatherstriping to some early B bodies and the rubber part is too thick. I had to poke small holes in it at corners to get it to shut right. New windlace they say now is made correct!!!! For $220 plus shipping you would like it to be right HUH!!!? lol
 
My 65 Cuda trunk is the same way. It really needs to be shut hard, and my seals are 55 years old! Ill look into luybing and adjusting the latch. My service body pickup has a side door that I have to slam shut but when I lube the crude latch those have (just a wedge that rides over a ridge) they close on the first try for about 2 days.
 
a lube with graphite may last longer than something that is liquid
 
This thread takes me back a long time ago ... like 51 years ago ....

I had a brand new beautiful 1970 factory special ordered Plymouth Duster 340. It was B7 Jamaica Blue Metallic, B5 interior with center arm rest bench, heavy duty cooling and electrical, Light package and Interior Decor group, 3.55 Sure Grip, 727 (because a 19 year old young man could not get affordable insurance for a 4 speed equipped Duster 340).

To get to the point - from the moment I picked up the car from the dealer after it came off the transport - the trunk lid took massive effort to close! After months of taking this back to the dealer's body shop they gave up ==== ordered a new latch mechanism and new weatherstrip and had the car a few days to install --- but by that point the trunk lid had small depressions in outer skin of the lid - where I had slammed the lid so many times. Used a new toilet plunger to try to remove the depressions - it worked somewhat.

Ironically by 1972 Chrysler revised the Duster trunk lid adding a reinforcing rib down the center of the lid plus a revised latch.

But I will never forget the difficulty of getting that trunk lid to shut --- it was always a hit or miss adventure - I even carried bungie cords and rope in the trunk to tie down the lid --- I had to use it MANY times especially when I was at the strip carrying mounted M+H slicks in the trunk for mounting at the track...
 
Mopar trunks! If anyone has ever had a 68-70 B body, they know the trunk lid will shut but always leak water. Ever see one that the trunk floor had not rusted out of!??
^^^ True, that Duster reinforcing rib was added for a reason!
 
Adjust latch up will fox your car.

Lubrication is key! Once a year lube all hinges (door, hood, trunk) and latches with a liquid lube. Will make your life much easier.

do not use white lithium grease in a spray can, it harden over time and you will be sorry.
 
Remove the latch, soak it in gasoline or laquer thinner to remove all the old grease, grit and grime. Blow it out until its dry and grease moving parts with a small paint brush and some white lithium. Adjust the latch and you should be good to go. It may need readjustment after some time once the new seal settles.
 
barbee6043 said:
Mopar trunks! If anyone has ever had a 68-70 B body, they know the trunk lid will shut but always leak water. Ever see one that the trunk floor had not rusted out of!??
^^^ True, that Duster reinforcing rib was added for a reason!
Click to expand...
They rust out from the rear window corners holding water and rotting out.
 
moparmat2000 said:
They rust out from the rear window corners holding water and rotting out.
Click to expand...
That is also true, BUT I was replacing trunk floors back in the 80s before you ever saw a rusted out place at the rear window!!!!
Those 68-70 B trunk lids never closed right. Might be that the trough was not made correct as to the seal also? The trunk seals repoped have been crap for decades now too! Mopar is what it is and they were never meant to have people wanting and driving them many decades later!
 
Greg D. said:
Hi all… I’ve searched for similar issues, but not seeing anything on this. I have a ‘64 dart gt and when closing the trunk I have to slam it, and sometimes multiple times to get it to latch. I know that like a hood there are multiple adjustment points which can go out of whack pretty quickly. Any quick things to check or replace before I dig in? (Or just leave it, if that is the best advice).

When it is latched it stays latched. It fully opens and stays open. All that is fine. I did recently change the weather stripping. The previous stripping was awful. Yes it’s a bit harder to close now, but I had to slam it before. Opening is easy… “pops” right open.

Thanks in advance. Greg.
Click to expand...
I will say my 66 closes harder than my 70 but not by much. It should close like this.
 
My 68 and 69 chargers both leaked from the rear windows back in the 80s. Back then I just pulled the trim, and filled the channels with silicone and reattached the trim. Somebody restoring them later probably cussed me out over that. After sealing the rear window channels it all stopped leaking. Water laying in those rear window troughs just sat and ate them out. At least the windshields had small cutouts to dump the water into the cowl.
 
Thanks for the quick feedback everyone! I’m not with my car at the moment, but will look at these ideas as soon as possible. Thanks again! Greg.
 
If you repair all the rusted out metal in any rear window area, seal that window with new gasket, etc and then there is water in the trunk after a wash or rain, then the trunk leaks right!!!? lol
 
barbee6043 said:
That is also true, BUT I was replacing trunk floors back in the 80s before you ever saw a rusted out place at the rear window!!!!
Those 68-70 B trunk lids never closed right. Might be that the trough was not made correct as to the seal also? The trunk seals repoped have been crap for decades now too! Mopar is what it is and they were never meant to have people wanting and driving them many decades later!
Click to expand...
I bought a replacement trunk weatherstrip from JC Whitney way back and that fixed the problem with the trunk lid leaking on my '69 Charger. Bigger issue was in the bottom corners of the rear window. I got into the trunk with a flashlight and had my wife close the trunk lid and use a garden hose all around. Some of the leaks were the screws that held in the vinyl trim along the roof between the rear passenger window and the rear roof edge. All that was resolved when I had the car stripped & painted. Removed the vinyl top, filled the holes, and had a new trunk floor welded in. Was overseas in the PI at the time and could not find replacement rear window corner pieces. Ugh, memories!
 
Howdy all!

I got home and with your confident “adjust the latch” comments, I did just that. Bottom ‘catch’ I bumped to the right just a touch, then the latch on the trunk lid… down just a touch. (Super scientific measurements!) … and now it closes and latches on the first try with zero effort.

thank you all!
 
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My '70 Duster has dents in the trunk lid from being slammed shut over the years lol. Early on I learned not to "push" it closed like you normally do with a car trunk but I "throw" it closed, as in grab the latch hook (what's it called?) on the lid with my finger and throw it down as I let go. Let the momentum of the trunk lid itself engage the latch. Or just throw it from the top side, doesn't really matter but oftentimes my hands are greasy and I keep some of my tools in my trunk lol. I suppose it's harder to shut and have latch than @toolmanmike 's example but it's never been an issue for me. The key has a bit of resistance when turning to open the trunk but nothing crazy.

Ironically I close the hood the opposite way, gently lower it until the secondary safety latch pops then give it a hard push down to engage the main latch. Slamming it like a 'normal' car just feels wrong for some reason lol. What strange old vehicles we drive...
 
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