Slant 6 bolt on's!

-
R

raw111

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 11, 2011
Messages
83
Reaction score
1
Location
Wisconsin
Hi guys im sure its been beatin with a horse 1000x . But I am on the Fence about swapping out my 6 If i do keep it in there i would like to, Gain a bit more performance so its not "gramps old grocery getter" I need to replace my Exhaust manifold as it is, and i have 2 of them. But Can i get a easy build list with parts i can kinda find? not looking for one offs.
I would like
Intake manifold
Carb
Exhaust manifold
Cam
Exhaust size
ignition?
Let me know what works and what doesnt i want something Very drivable
"I am not looking for an all out race car"
only summer driving and would like to stick with 87/89 gas
Just something to wake the old girl up!
once again new to this and my car was >40k miles so shes still got a nice tight bottom end :p
I was thinking of doing the headgasket while i have it apart for the intake exhaust so if i should look for certain valves? rockers?
What works guys!
And thanks!
 
raw111 said:
Hi guys im sure its been beatin with a horse 1000x . But I am on the Fence about swapping out my 6 If i do keep it in there i would like to, Gain a bit more performance so its not "gramps old grocery getter" I need to replace my Exhaust manifold as it is, and i have 2 of them. But Can i get a easy build list with parts i can kinda find? not looking for one offs.
I would like
Intake manifold
Carb
Exhaust manifold
Cam
Exhaust size
ignition?
Let me know what works and what doesnt i want something Very drivable
"I am not looking for an all out race car"
only summer driving and would like to stick with 87/89 gas
Just something to wake the old girl up!
once again new to this and my car was >40k miles so shes still got a nice tight bottom end :p
I was thinking of doing the headgasket while i have it apart for the intake exhaust so if i should look for certain valves? rockers?
What works guys!
And thanks!
Click to expand...

The absolute, #1 most bang-for-the-buck modification you can do for a slant isn't a bolt-on. Assuming your engine is stock, your compression is likely less than 8:1. The best thing you can do to help power AND mileage is increase the compression by milling the cylinder head. (and since you're thinking of doing a head gasket anyway, this shouldn't seem unreasonable) Pull the head, take some measurements, and take the head and have it milled enough to achieve about 9:1 compression. And there's absolutely NO downside to this (aside from the time, effort, and money). While you have the manifolds off, you could throw on a Super Six conversion (factory 2bbl set-up), switch to electronic ignition if it doesn't already have it, give it a thorough tune-up, and you'll have a peppy, economical little engine for commuting.

Let us know if we can answer any questions!
 
When you add a new exhaust have the small system taken out and put in a 2/1/4' all the way to your muffler then to a 2'' tail pipe will help big time on MPG and HP.
Vynn3 is on it :cheers::cheers:
Shave the head about 60 thousandths or more, I had mine shaved and had bigger valves put in while it is out "Thank's to 66aCUDA" one of many guru's we have here.
Give some of our /6 guru's we have here to tell you how much to shave off your head to achieve 9:1 compression on your build. Correct me if I am wrong guru's. I love my smooth daily driver all the guru's have helped me with 8)8)



First thing I did was get rid of the point's system and it made things so much better :cheers:
 

Attachments

  • Picture 222 118.jpg
    81.8 KB · Views: 904
  • Picture 222 005.jpg
    93.7 KB · Views: 849
This is the kind of info I am looking for! I do not need a race car, but a little oomph is not a bad thing. I just want a fun little driving wagon. Where is the best place to find a 2 barrel set up?

Thanks
 
Oregon Cam Grinding will grind you a good mechanical camshaft from your core for 70 bucks as long as you choose one of their grinds. They have some nice ones, too. Google them.
 
You'll hear the name "Clifford" come up, but be very careful before you decide to spend any money with Clifford. They have a long and ugly reputation for being a bunch of clowns; see for example here, here, here, here, and here. Much of what they sell is inaccurately described, and a lot of it is not even slightly cost-effective. The good news is that you don't need to go to Clifford to get hot rod parts for slant-6s; there are lots of other, better options. See for example Dutra Duals and header options discussed in this thread and this one, Erson custom cams, HEI ignition upgrade, Mike Jeffreys windage trays, Hurricane intakes, other exotic intakes. Hi-perf engine buildup here, high-perf parts and build info here.
 
I'm putting my 2¢ worth in with the guys who say mill the head and bigger exhaust, at least for starters.

If your /6 is a 72 or newer, you have the hardened valve seats for unleaded fuel. Otherwise, I suggest adding hardened valve seats while the head is off.

A number of Dan's links are to a site called SlantSix.Org. These guys are hard-core, dedicated proponents for keeping the leaning tower of power on the road. I've learned a lot and scored a true roller timing chain through them.

In looking at aftermarket intake and exhaust systems, suggest you insure that you have a way to heat the intake under the carb. Here in the Hotter'n Hell Never Ending Summer @ the Edge of the World, it's not all that necessary. I've been through some Wisconsin winters. It's very necessary unless you like DieHard testing.
 
Well this will be a summer car only, I have 3 other cars here (hoping to sell the wifes) so not really concerned about the winters and the carb warming except once every so often to kick it over
 
ok so best thing to do is head work...
get the compression up and some good port work...

get the engine builder valves on ebay 1.7/1.44...

get the compression to 9.5 good for regular gas...

then cam/intake/headers...
 
After considering my options, and looking up prices, For what i want i think im going to start looking for a v8 donor car, For the prices and the performance im looking for plus the rumble my truck cant be the only v8 in the driveway anymore! now to decide between a 318 and a 360, and find a good auto transmission and 8.25 rear
 
raw111 said:
After considering my options, and looking up prices, For what i want i think im going to start looking for a v8 donor car, For the prices and the performance im looking for plus the rumble my truck cant be the only v8 in the driveway anymore! now to decide between a 318 and a 360, and find a good auto transmission and 8.25 rear
Click to expand...

just do the turbo route then...
 
raw111 said:
After considering my options, and looking up prices, For what i want i think im going to start looking for a v8 donor car, For the prices and the performance im looking for plus the rumble my truck cant be the only v8 in the driveway anymore! now to decide between a 318 and a 360, and find a good auto transmission and 8.25 rear
Click to expand...

You sure ?
 

Attachments

  • 1965 Dart 035.jpg
    109.2 KB · Views: 781
Johnny Dart,

That is very sweet!

raw111,

It does take more effort. Best of luck with whichever route you take. Please try to get the Slant six set up you have now into good hands should you decide to swap it out.
 
memike said:
When you add a new exhaust have the small system taken out and put in a 2/1/4' all the way to your muffler then to a 2'' tail pipe will help big time on MPG and HP.





i'm gettin ready to upgrade my exhaust to 2 1/4 like you said, with a fairly quiet turbo muffler. would it hurt performance any if i just ran a 2 1/4 tail pipe too? or maybe dump it with a turndown in front of the rear axle? just to make it easier. its a stock 225 btw
Click to expand...
 
I am sticking with the 225 for awhile while i start my build, as for what i will do with the setup after, is undecided, i may fog the cylinders and stow it away or sell and try an recoup, it will depend where im at in life, i guess i really want to move so depending on the wifes job its either 2 years 2-4 years so thats, what will happen thanks for the information as always i may still have some work done to the engine as it has >50k on the setup
 
You should just enjoy the slant for awhile then.
Give it a nice tune up.
Fix your manifold,install a 2.25" exhaust,with a free flowing muffler.
Maybe a pertronix electronic ign.Free flowing air cleaner.
Before you know it the car will scoot around pretty good.
 
If you are up to a challenge you could always fuel inject it. I've seen kits around for it.
I was thinking that would be pretty sweet.

~The Artful Dodger
 
Bill,I sure hope you realize just how cruel you are !!! Damn I like that Turbo setup !!![-o<[-o<
 
6pakattack said:
Bill,I sure hope you realize just how cruel you are !!! Damn I like that Turbo setup !!![-o<[-o<
Click to expand...

Thanks for the kind words!

The fact is, you already HAVE most of the important and expensive parts to put together such a (turbo) motor, with only the induction system, a turbocharger, of course, turbo "header," (see below) and the turbo/waste gate/blowoff vslve and plumbing left to buy. I would recommend using a stock /6 exhaust manifold with an elbow bolted to it with a 90-degree curve, and a turbo flange welded to that, as an exhaust "header." Cheap and effective. Maybe better than what we spent $1,000.00 on...

You'll have to buy a cam, regardless of which engine you build, a carb (same deal): the price difference between finishing it as an 11-second car or a 13-second car will be significant, but not a great deal, considering what you've already spent...

You pays your money, and you takes your choice... :angel3:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top