Slant 6 stroker?

[toolmanmike]

I noticed some discussion here about a stroker crank in a slant. A friend stroked a slant for his 42 Plymouth. He passed away so I can't ask him. Supposedly the crank came out of a slant that was in a altered years back. I hear it runs very impressively. ANy information about a long throw crank for a slant. Just curious.

 

[273]

I imagine you could offset grind the 225's 4.125" stroke or even weld and grind.

 

[A56]

Stroking the slant 6!​

• Thread starterRoad/Rage
• Start dateMay 27, 2020

 

[toolmanmike]

Stroking the slant 6!​

• Thread starterRoad/Rage
• Start dateMay 27, 2020

Thanks, I'll read through that one.

 

[RustyRatRod]

The only way to do it would be some kind extreme high dollar custom crank or offset grinding a stock one. At 4.125", it's kinda strange anyone would want to try it. A LOT of people think that putting the long rod in one makes it a stroker, when the only way to do that is to increase the crankshaft stroke by one of the aforementioned choices.

 

[273]

Stroking the slant 6!​

• Thread starterRoad/Rage
• Start dateMay 27, 2020

I liked the idea of the high revving 170 into a 210, be cool for a gutted street legal road race type of car.

 

[toolmanmike]

I imagine you could offset grind the 225's 4.125" stroke or even weld and grind.

Woody built the car, He worked for Roger Lucktenberg (Radar) part time doing his cast iron porting. He did my heads on my 273. Radar has been a Mopar racer/machinist for decades, worked for Chrysler doing performance head work, was on the B1 team. He even built and repaired heads for Force at one time. Radar had a altered early on with a slant. Back to Woody, John was a racer and Woody helped him on his Division 5 car. When Woody passed away, John got took responsibility to liquidate Woody's assets. (only child and was married but no kids) John has The coupe and when I was out there today, John mentioned it had Radar's old stroker crank in it. John said with 14/32's and a 4:10 in the rear, it will smoke the tires easily through 1st with a O/D 833.
John said it was like a 324 cube motor or something like that.

Sorry to go on for so long but I needed to tell the story.

 

[toolmanmike]

The only way to do it would be some kind extreme high dollar custom crank or offset grinding a stock one. At 4.125", it's kinda strange anyone would want to try it. A LOT of people think that putting the long rod in one makes it a stroker, when the only way to do that is to increase the crankshaft stroke by one of the aforementioned choices.

Please read post #7 above.

 

[Car Nut]

Woody built the car, He worked for Roger Lucktenberg (Radar) part time doing his cast iron porting. He did my heads on my 273. Radar has been a Mopar racer/machinist for decades, worked for Chrysler doing performance head work, was on the B1 team. He even built and repaired heads for Force at one time. Radar had a altered early on with a slant. Back to Woody, John was a racer and Woody helped him on his Division 5 car. When Woody passed away, John got took responsibility to liquidate Woody's assets. (only child and was married but no kids) John has The coupe and when I was out there today, John mentioned it had Radar's old stroker crank in it. John said with 14/32's and a 4:10 in the rear, it will smoke the tires easily through 1st with a O/D 833.
John said it was like a 324 cube motor or something like that.

Sorry to go on for so long but I needed to tell the story.

I love stories like this.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Please read post #7 above.

Sounds cool, but still had to be done by one of the methods I described. I'd like to see and hear it. Old school stuff like this really intrigues me.

 

[273]

John said it was like a 324 cube motor or something like that.

Even if you bored it out like in A56's post to a max 0.130" over to 3.53" you'd need like a 5.52" crank for 324 cid.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Even if you bored it out like in A56's post to a max 0.130" over to 3.53" you'd need like a 5.52" crank for 324 cid.

Most will stand a bore that heavy and heavier. The 5" plus crank though.....no. lol

 

[toolmanmike]

Sounds cool, but still had to be done by one of the methods I described. I'd like to see and hear it. Old school stuff like this really intrigues me.

Me too. In the next week or so I might head out to Radar's shop and chat with hom about it. I an curious more than anything but the more info I have the easier it is to sell the car. I would love to have it but I would need to sell one of mine.

 

[toolmanmike]

Even if you bored it out like in A56's post to a max 0.130" over to 3.53" you'd need like a 5.52" crank for 324 cid.

I wondered about that. John mentioned it could easily romp on a certain 302 Mustang in town through at least 1st. Gear.

 

[Charrlie_S]

I find it hard to believe that you can increase the cubes of a slant six by almost 100 cubes. That is 1/3 bigger.
3.6 bore (.200 oversize) x 5.0 stroke (.875 oversize) will only give you 305 cubes.

 

[toolmanmike]

I find it hard to believe that you can increase the cubes of a slant six by almost 100 cubes. That is 1/3 bigger.
3.6 bore (.200 oversize) x 5.0 stroke (.875 oversize) will only give you 305 cubes.

I will agree with that. John is a smart guy, a machinist, and a sucessful racer but he is a Chevy guy and may not know about slant 6 Mopars. LOL

 

[273]

I wondered about that. John mentioned it could easily romp on a certain 302 Mustang in town through at least 1st. Gear.

Doesn't need a lot of displacement to do that, just needs to make good power to weight and setup really well.

 

[toolmanmike]

Doesn't need a lot of displacement to do that, just needs to make good power to weight and setup really well.

John did mention that (like) 324 cubes will beat 302 any day. I need to talk to Radar.

 

[toolmanmike]

I find it hard to believe that you can increase the cubes of a slant six by almost 100 cubes. That is 1/3 bigger.
3.6 bore (.200 oversize) x 5.0 stroke (.875 oversize) will only give you 305 cubes.

I agree. I need to talk to Radar and take notes.

 

[Garrett Ellison]

I don't see it doing a lot of good until you can get enough head to flow it. But, on a strictly hypothetical for entertainment value only (and because I can't help but to wonder)... if someone with a CNC operation wanted to take it to the extreme, take one of the old aluminum blocks and pour the deck full of molten aluminum to the top and mill the deck down flush. Make a solid billet aluminum head with the injector stacks coming out of where the valve cover would normally be (like on Mickey Thompsons Indy car engines). Get some custom aluminum rods made with Honda (1.88) journals and call Crower (they made a few 4.125 inch billet slant six cranks in the early sixties) to cut a billet crank with as much stroke as would fit in the crankcase. With the main web and cap structure in the aluminum block, you could possibly use a crescent shaped upper bearing spacer and some custom small journal main caps (more custom CNC work!) to drop the centerline of the crankshaft (now with smaller main bearing diameter) to allow even more room for a stroker assembly (Edit: I forgot the aluminum blocks had an eight piece cast ductile iron lower bearing cap assembly, CNC new upper and lowers and line bore to drop the crank). It would be easy enough to order a billet crank legnthened an inch to accommodate a 1 inch thick steel adapter plate to relocate the bellhousing. Adding a super thick steel girdle the legnth of the block probably wouldn't be a bad idea, either! Now, we just need to find someone with the resources and nothing better to do who would want to build an alcohol altered or front engine dragster powered by a "Doctor Frankenstein" slant six...

 

[RustyRatRod]

I will agree with that. John is a smart guy, a machinist, and a sucessful racer but he is a Chevy guy and may not know about slant 6 Mopars. LOL

Regardless, I'd like to know more about it. Keep us posted.

 

[RustyRatRod]

I don't see it doing a lot of good until you can get enough head to flow it. But, on a strictly hypothetical for entertainment value only (and because I can't help but to wonder)... if someone with a CNC operation wanted to take it to the extreme, take one of the old aluminum blocks and pour the deck full of molten aluminum to the top and mill the deck down flush. Make a solid billet aluminum head with the injector stacks coming out of where the valve cover would normally be (like on Mickey Thompsons Indy car engines). Get some custom aluminum rods made with Honda (1.88) journals and call Crower (they made a few 4.125 inch billet slant six cranks in the early sixties) to cut a billet crank with as much stroke as would fit in the crankcase. With the main web and cap structure in the aluminum block, you could possibly use a crescent shaped upper bearing spacer and some custom small journal main caps (more custom CNC work!) to drop the centerline of the crankshaft (now with smaller main bearing diameter) to allow even more room for a stroker assembly. It would be easy enough to order a billet crank legnthened an inch to accommodate a 1 inch thick steel adapter plate to relocate the bellhousing. Adding a super thick steel girdle the legnth of the block probably wouldn't be a bad idea, either! Now, we just need to find someone with the resources and nothing better to do who would want to build an alcohol altered or front engine dragster powered by a "Doctor Frankenstein" slant six...

There you go thinkin again. LOL

 

[toolmanmike]

I don't see it doing a lot of good until you can get enough head to flow it. But, on a strictly hypothetical for entertainment value only (and because I can't help but to wonder)... if someone with a CNC operation wanted to take it to the extreme, take one of the old aluminum blocks and pour the deck full of molten aluminum to the top and mill the deck down flush. Make a solid billet aluminum head with the injector stacks coming out of where the valve cover would normally be (like on Mickey Thompsons Indy car engines). Get some custom aluminum rods made with Honda (1.88) journals and call Crower (they made a few 4.125 inch billet slant six cranks in the early sixties) to cut a billet crank with as much stroke as would fit in the crankcase. With the main web and cap structure in the aluminum block, you could possibly use a crescent shaped upper bearing spacer and some custom small journal main caps (more custom CNC work!) to drop the centerline of the crankshaft (now with smaller main bearing diameter) to allow even more room for a stroker assembly. It would be easy enough to order a billet crank legnthened an inch to accommodate a 1 inch thick steel adapter plate to relocate the bellhousing. Adding a super thick steel girdle the legnth of the block probably wouldn't be a bad idea, either! Now, we just need to find someone with the resources and nothing better to do who would want to build an alcohol altered or front engine dragster powered by a "Doctor Frankenstein" slant six...

I read through the first few lines. Woody at Radar's shop can do miracles with head flow. That's what they did for a living and as a passion. Pic#1 is a home carved billet head for a alcohol pull tractor head based off a John Deere 6 cylinder diesel. The rest are my 273 heads ported by Woody at Radar's shop. I didn't have the heads flowed although I wish I had. John said Woody "ported the hell out of the heads on that slant 6"

 

[toolmanmike]

Regardless, I'd like to know more about it. Keep us posted.

Will do.

 

[273]

I remember in one of my uncles old hot rod magazine, that there was highly modified Cleveland headed ford six, I always find those type of builds the coolest, wonder if there's a head that could be modded to fit a /6 ?