Slant 6 wont start

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1970eldarte

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Hi all.
So here it is. Cars been sitting for about 3 months because it wouldn't start and I had no money or time then to do anything. But now I have both! :) tried to start it last night with a jump. It would crank with ease but wouldn't actually start. Tried using a little starter fluid and all I got was really bad backfires then it would run for like half a second.
Any help is appreciated!
 
First thing to check is that you are getting good spark. Verify that the distributor is at least close for timing. You may want to check your plugs and see if there is any build up on them. Some people suggest that you verify the accelerator pump in the carburetor is functioning.
 
I would redo the timing so you know its correct.

Before you even mess with the timing, pull the carb linkage down and make sure you are getting a good stream of fuel.

Heres how I reset my timing.

I remove the spark plug and get the #1 piston all the way to the top and then standing at the passenger wheel and looking over the fender, I put the distributor in with the rotor pointed towards 3 o'clock. Then I put the cap on and put the #1 spark plug wire on at the 3 o'clock post and then continue putting the wires on in the firing order around the cap. Keep the distributor bolt held in finger tight.

Try starting the car. If it just keeps turning and doesn't start, twist the distributor into another position and finger tighten the hold down bolt. It should fire up and at least idle enough to where you can put a timing light on the thing and adjust it from there.

If it pops through the carb or backfires when you try and start it, then you're on the exhaust stroke. So turn the engine over by hand until the #1 piston comes up to the top again. This time you'll be on the compression stroke and it wont backfire anymore.
 
thats pretty classic signs of not getting fuel... it runs on the starting fluid and then runs out...

as said make sure your getting fuel out of the carb...

before trying to start it did you crank it a couple of times for about a minute? all the fuel could have drain to the tank...

or

the diaphragm in the pump is bad

or

you have a clogged fuel filter
 
Start with the basics......spark at the plugs and fuel in the carb. If those are both good, I'd do a compression test. This is still a points type ignition?
 
First off...
Thanks for all the help! Seeing as I'm new to this I need all the help I can get.
It is getting a steady stream of fuel, I checked that when I was trying to start it the first time. Also, I replaced the fuel lines and filter recently.
I'm at school right now but when I get home I will check the plugs. If the plugs are good then I will attempt to do adjust the timing. Never done it before but I'll be able to figure it out.
Also, it runs off of an electronic ignition... willl that change anything?
Sorry if any of this is stupid stuff I should know. I just have little knowledge and I'm doing this on my own. But I'm eager to learn so anything is helpful :)
 
Any insight on what happened before? You said it's been sitting because it wouldn't start, but was it fine one day and the next it would start or was it getting progressively worse? Did it sit a long time in between starts?

I agree with the basics, spark and fuel, but I'll add Spark at the right time.
Mine jumped a tooth on the dizzy sprocket and wouldn't run...actually broke the gear while I was driving and it died in traffic :)
 
It was progressively worse. I bought it a year ago and the day I bought it I drove it 150 miles in 100° weather. From there it went downhill. Initially I thought it was vapor lock. So I replaced all the fuel lines, put new fuel filter, and heat wrapped the lines. And replaced the water pump. Didn't change anything. Now I cant even get it to start:/
 
hmm, progressively worse can be loss of compression, clogged carb, or vacuum leak among other things.
If the previous owner had the car sitting for a while, crap can get stirred up in the tank and sent on to the carb, even through the filter. After a while it's just too much for the thing to run well or at all.
Does it still have the single barrel carb?

You may have to spend some quality time going through everything, just wright down what you are trying to accomplish / fix, do one thing at a time. Don't get side tracked or you'll get it taken too far apart or have 10 things going at once or forget where things were set before you started tinkering :lol: ask me how I know :)
 
The carb was rebuilt at the beginning of the year. So, could it still be clogged? And Yes, still Holley 1920 single barrel.
 
Did it run better after the carb rebuild? and if so, for how long ( mileage wise, not necessarily time wise )
Did it have like rust colored "powder" inside?
 
Do a compression test. Tuning an engine with bad compression won't accomplish a thing.
 
I'm not a "slant six" man but THIS SMACKS OF TIMING

Before you change ANYTHING,

Pull the distributor cap. Move the front pulley/ balancer back and forth to "feel the slack" and move it until the rotor just starts to turn, and NOTE how far the balancer moved. This will give you some idea of slack in the chain

Bring the timing marks up to "where you think" you want the timing, I.E. say, 5-8 BTC, If the rotor is NOT pointing close to the no1 plug wire tower, rotate the crank ONE turn, and bring the marks back up where you had 'em.

If things don't look right, wrench the engine until the rotor IS APPROACHING the no1 tower, AND either the points barely opened, or the pickup coil/ reluctor are aligned in the center

NOW LOOK to see where the timing marks are. If they are a "ways past" the timing has changed, IE the distributor drive gear or the timing chain has failed



NOW PULL THE DISTRIBUTOR and inspect the drive gear. as well as use a flashlight and inspect the cam gear.
 
I woulda said it smacked of timing issues too, but the "progressively worse" thing has got me hung up ...... crap, I'm not any help at this point :lol:
 
Alright.
Well I just pulled the first plug. Its caked with burnt oil. Black burnt powder coating the whole surface.
Also, where I'm supposed to turn the crank it is filled with dirt and grime so I'm gonna get that cleaned out right now. Anyone know the exact size socket that will fit on it?
Secondly, what is the burnt oil telling me?
Thanks for the help.
I'm not a "slant six" man but THIS SMACKS OF TIMING

Before you change ANYTHING,

Pull the distributor cap. Move the front pulley/ balancer back and forth to "feel the slack" and move it until the rotor just starts to turn, and NOTE how far the balancer moved. This will give you some idea of slack in the chain
What do you mean by feel the slack and what rotor is turning?

Bring the timing marks up to "where you think" you want the timing, I.E. say, , If the rotor is NOT pointing close to the no1 plug wire tower, rotate the crank ONE turn, and bring the marks back up where you had 'em.

5-8 BTC... whats that?
 
5-8 BTDC = 5° to 8° before top dead center or " advanced"

with all of the plugs out you should be able to grab one of the belts and turn it over by hand

brunt oil on the plugs is telling me that the valve guide seals are leaking or you've got blown rings...
 
I didn't realize the engine might be in bad shape, as in "real bad." WHEN it used to run, did it smoke/ burn oil?

I'd say the first order of business is to throw a new set of plugs in there.
 
When I first got it, it was running like a champ! Nothing wrong. And ill try turning it over by hand in the morning! Thanks again for the help all!
 
Update!
Today had some definite progress.
Tightened the carb because it was WAYYY loose.
Pulled the fuel line by the filter and there was no gas.
SO then I checked the fuel pump to make sure it was functioning and it was.
I believe what happened because it was sitting was that the fuel just evaporated out because my gas cap was loose... would that happen?
SO i got 6 gallons of gas in the tank and primed the line.
then after a bit of a struggle it started! but only for a second at a time.
But now I've noticed whenever i hold the ignition down it will run.
SO does this mean I have a bad iginition switch?
thanks for any help!:)
 
I was having the same problem with my 73 dart, I had the carb rebuilt and now it runs like a beauty. Usually if its been sitting for a long time the carb tends to be the problem. Also check your plugs and wires.
 
1970eldarte said:
Update!
Today had some definite progress.
Tightened the carb because it was WAYYY loose.
Pulled the fuel line by the filter and there was no gas.
SO then I checked the fuel pump to make sure it was functioning and it was.
I believe what happened because it was sitting was that the fuel just evaporated out because my gas cap was loose... would that happen?
SO i got 6 gallons of gas in the tank and primed the line.
then after a bit of a struggle it started! but only for a second at a time.
But now I've noticed whenever i hold the ignition down it will run.
SO does this mean I have a bad iginition switch?
thanks for any help!:)
Click to expand...
If it will only run in the "start" position, it's likely the ballast resistor has failed. If pushing the key sideways in the run position helps make a connection, it's probably a bad ignition switch.
 
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