Slant six rear main seal

[Taz]

Hi, I tried searching my question and didn't find an earlier post, so I am asking now.

Does the engine need to be removed to replace the rear main seal on a 1972 225? What is the procedure to R&R the seal?

Thanks

 

[Inertia]

No.
Dealership flat rate time is under 4 hours.
It could take a novice a while longer.
Many would suggest pulling the engine, with all the associated rentals and mess.
I've done quite a few in car.
A Factory Service Manual may be found care of - MyMopar.
MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - Service Manuals
Good luck.

 

[RustyRatRod]

"I" would pull the engine, put it on the stand and flip it upside down so you can successfully seal the entire bottom of the engine, instead of fighting everything that the oil pan will hang up on trying to get it out from the bottom.

 

[Billy the average guy]

I replaced my rear main seal on my /6 two years ago by dropping the transmission and flex plate. Then removed the drag link and the oil pan. At that point the main seal is there for the taking (and replacing). Cleaned up and painted the pan before reassembly. Worked great. No more leaks from any of those lower seals since.

 

[65 Dartman]

"I" would pull the engine, put it on the stand and flip it upside down so you can successfully seal the entire bottom of the engine, instead of fighting everything that the oil pan will hang up on trying to get it out from the bottom.

I agree; it would probably be quicker pulling the engine than laying on your back fighting everything. I just love working on my back under a car - sarcasm meant!

 

[Darter6]

Billy, How tough was it to get the top half block side of the crank seal to get out and the new one in ?

 

[my68barracuda]

I've done quite a few in car

the only way I would attempt to do a rear seal with the engine in the car would be if I had a car lift, like they
would have in a dealer maintenance bay,, then you could possibly get it done in 4 hrs, like the flat rate book lists.
no way I would do that laying on my back under the car,,,
without a lift, pull the motor, it would be quicker with a better probability of success.

another thought is a '72 probably had the rope style seal, you may not find those available today, you will find the two piece hard rubber seal, those take the same seal carrier and work fine.

 

[Inertia]

"I" would pull the engine, put it on the stand and flip it upside down so you can successfully seal the entire bottom of the engine, instead of fighting everything that the oil pan will hang up on trying to get it out from the bottom.

After loosening the front mounts, lift motor, and place spacers ( 2x4, I just use big sockets) in the gap , then rotate the crank to move the counterweights and throws in the best position, - there's enuff room to swing a cat down there.


Trans/flex plate removal is not nec.

 

[Taz]

No.
Dealership flat rate time is under 4 hours.
It could take a novice a while longer.
Many would suggest pulling the engine, with all the associated rentals and mess.
I've done quite a few in car.
A Factory Service Manual may be found care of - MyMopar.
MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - Service Manuals
Good luck.

View attachment 1715318915

Thanks for the response. Very helpful. I do have a service manual, so i will look in there. I just wanted to hear people's experiences to see if there were any special tricks I could learn

 

[KosmicKuda]

"I" would pull the engine, put it on the stand and flip it upside down so you can successfully seal the entire bottom of the engine, instead of fighting everything that the oil pan will hang up on trying to get it out from the bottom.

I agree.
I did this 2 years ago a couple days before I left for Carlisle lying on my back in the garage. It's a hassle to get the pan out then back in again.
If I had to do it tomortow, I would definitely pull the engine and put it on a stand. Wouldn't even think about doing it in the car again.