Slick Shifted 833

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bensonr

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I am thinking of installing a Slick Shift kit in my 1970 340 Swinger. I would like to hear from someone who has this done to their car. How does it work? Is it streetable?
 
It is not really streetable although I know a couple who used to drive them on the street. Unless you can already do full throttle power shifts like Ronnie Socks, I think it's a waste of time. Basically, if the transmision is the reason you can't shift any faster, then it's worth it but drivability will be down. By itself it will not make you a better shifter.
 
Slick shift stuff was REAL hard on transmission major parts. It was the "best at the time" for a stick, but when the first band-shifted stuff--Lenco's--came out, it blew em out of the water. They are not a streetable setup at all, and are very limited in longivity.

They were meant for, and of, the very types of people who used 'em. the Ronnie Soxes of the racing world.

If you can afford a box for racing, and another for the street, then maybe.
 
I've been running a slick shifted trans at the track for 3 years now. It can be driven on the the street but not recommended unless you are very good with a road ranger at matching rpm and road speed. At the track is where they shine and the faster you shift them the longer they last , miss a shift an be ready to pull the trans apart for some refurbishing(don't ask me how I know). I switch back to a syncro trans when I get back from the track for street driving.
 
if you want a poor mans slickshift for easier higher rpm shifting, grind the first and second tooth off the hub that engages the gears, leaving every third tooth. The hub will wear faster (from aggressive powershifting) but it will shift much better at higher rpm's short of going to a real proshifted/faceplated transmission

all you need is a grinder and some time...or spend 300 bucks and buy Passon's street/strip kit which would get you similar results

I've driven a car with this mod and am about to do it to my 833 in a couple of weeks when i rebuild it
 
So you leave the synchros and brass rings in? Do you remove the teeth on the gear that the hub engages too?
 
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