Slow Motion video

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draginmopars

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Location
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What program can we use to chop a video
to make it slow motion> (from .08-.11)


Took the dart to the track,
looks like we need to get more travel out of the front end

wants to play "Leap Frog"

had to get out of it, then back on it

Thanks

first pass

1.56 60 ft
7.25 ET
92.60 MPH

[ame]http://vid267.photobucket.com/albums/ii313/draginmopars/white%20dart%202/009.mp4[/ame]
 
Looks like an issue with the rear springs. Looks like they unload after the hit. What are they? And how old are they?
 
Looks like an issue with the rear springs. Looks like they unload after the hit. What are they? And how old are they?


They are new
110 spring rate

they were made at Nashville spring
Have been getting springs/u bolts from there over 20years

also has sliders
 
ok..shocks control the springs....

what shocks..

and get the camera closer to the car...along side...or near the rear
 
ok..shocks control the springs....

what shocks..


gas shocks
both are mounted in front of the axle

First pass,
left at idle, didn't notice it unloading
This is a street class,
so no one gets in the water to heat the tires.

[ame]http://vid267.photobucket.com/albums/ii313/draginmopars/white%20dart%202/006.mp4[/ame]




anything 2500- 4000 rpm, leaving the car hops
 
gas shocks both are mounted in front of the axle

That get's my vote for what your problem is. Your suspension components are fighting each other.

Just curious, why are the shocks mounted in front of the axle?

Generally, gas shocks are stiff and are used in handling applications. On launch, the car wants to plant the rear but the shocks are resisting and forcing it back which unloads it and causes the wheel hop. You probably want a softer shock.

Do you have a pinion snubber? That might help. Also clamping the front section of the springs might work too. Old school tricks..
 
Try Windows Movie Maker. free download if your computer doesn't already have it.

Thanks,

I had to get a new camera> Don't like it
it uses Quick time to process the pics

I don't know how to make it into slow mode
or produce such, on the computer

That's why I ask here
 
to help control spring wrap

In my limited experience I have never heard of that working, especially on an otherwise stock suspension. You're sort of altering the geometry of the shock which could alter the effective length of it. I could be reading too much into it but again, I've never seen anyone do that.
 
http://www.videolan.org/

I watch it in slo mo using that viewer....the front end came up...then came down...and loaded rear tires in the 1st video

Thanks, I'll try that

We didn't change anything on the front end

after changing to manual steering
adding fiber glass hood, valance and bumper, alum brackets

fiber glass dash- minimum wiring
remove heater box and wiper motor/linkage
lighter wheels and tires
moved the battery, to the rear
smaller radiator
removed some metal,in front

Need to get some weights, of the dart


The front end set higher than last year

So, that lessened the amount of free movement to 2 1/2"
Was going to get it back to normal ride height
 
In my limited experience I have never heard of that working, especially on an otherwise stock suspension. You're sort of altering the geometry of the shock which could alter the effective length of it. I could be reading too much into it but again, I've never seen anyone do that.

here's a discussion about the shocks

http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1040426&highlight=shocks+in+front

Then expands to another

http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=528983&page=8



I don't know right or wrong
It works for the Satellite, thought to try it on the dart
 
A leaf spring suspension absolutely NEEDS some way to positively stop the pinion from rising. Could be traction bars, ladders or just a snubber. The shocks mounted ahead of the axle are a help, but they are not forward enough to have an appreciable effect...not enough leverage.
The pinion is rising against the front of the spring...it reaches a point and then the spring does what a spring does..slams it back down. Once the spring is unloaded, the pinion begins rising again. Cycle this a few times a second, and there's your axle hop. The front end rose until the spring overcame the rotational torque of the axle and then just unloaded.
 
A leaf spring suspension absolutely NEEDS some way to positively stop the pinion from rising. Could be traction bars, ladders or just a snubber. The shocks mounted ahead of the axle are a help, but they are not forward enough to have an appreciable effect...not enough leverage.
The pinion is rising against the front of the spring...it reaches a point and then the spring does what a spring does..slams it back down. Once the spring is unloaded, the pinion begins rising again. Cycle this a few times a second, and there's your axle hop. The front end rose until the spring overcame the rotational torque of the axle and then just unloaded.


Can I put stiffer spring rate under, the dart
Since more torque engine> stroker ???

Was just thinking

WE had BAD traction issues in nov 2013
with stock springs, shocks, 245-60-15
tried 225-60-15 et tire

shook so hard the passenger widow fell

then til now,
was the reason we moved the spring in to get larger tire on
 
Looks like a fun fast car to me! Did your real question get answered? Fun is where it's at!!

Yea, We have a lot of "Fun" with the "More Door"

My main question was how to produce a slow motion effect
So,can see what is happening

Would be real fun
If it hooks and Stands

Right now, need it to stay hooked
 
My main question was how to produce a slow motion effect
So,can see what is happening

Would be real fun
If it hooks and Stands

Right now, need it to stay hooked

iPhone 5s app called "Hyperlapse" It it the best slo mo app out there and works awesome. Not only does it make slo mo, it stabilizes your film to the point that it looks like you were using a tri-pod. Amazing.
 
Can I put stiffer spring rate under, the dart Since more torque engine> stroker ???Was just thinkingWE had BAD traction issues in nov 2013with stock springs, shocks, 245-60-15tried 225-60-15 et tire shook so hard the passenger widow fellthen til now,was the reason we moved the spring in to get larger tire on

Sure, you could put a stiffer spring..that will lessen the hop, but won't do a thing to plant the tires. Remember, as the snubber pushes against the floor of the car, it's leveraging the axle housing downward. That's why you want to use long C Body shocks on a B Body and B Body shocks on an A Body. When it's all set up correctly, the snubber will literally smash the slicks downward into the pavement.
Ideal set-up is a 3 degree downward pinion angle and 3/4 inch air gap between the snubber and the floor. If a stiffer spring is desired, you can drill a second set of holes in the rear shackles and move the spring up about 3/4 of an inch. That little bit of reduced leverage goes a long way.
Clamp all of the leafs forward of the axle tight...no clamps behind it. And cross weight the car a bit. Put about 2 turns more in the driver side torsion bar than the passenger side. I use to street race Hemi stick cars back in NY, and that's about exactly how I set them up. It'll hook in a puddle of spit if ya get it right.
 
If the car has an anti-roll bar on the front end, consider disconnecting or removing it completely. Also, a pair of front 90/10 drag shocks lets the front rise quickly and settle slowly.

Agree with the others who say that controlling axle windup is going to be the key to getting consistent traction.
 
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