Small block headers: worst to best fitting. List your experience.

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and to think I've used Hooker fenderwell headers and Hedmen b-body headers on low deck big block Darts and Cuda's, both fit rather well.
I'm pretty sure I'd be pleased with any header fitment on a small block A-body.
 
Newbomb Turk said:
They should all be race headers. Don’t let the word race scare you.

That’s the problem. You want to run junk **** and then ***** about it.

So the answer is YOU NEED A RACE HEADER or stop bitching about header fit.
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They fit fine, but the mother fuckers hung down so low-they were smashed up within the first couple weeks. And I had as tall of 15" tires that would fit and had the front end cranked up a respectable amount.
 
Newbomb Turk said:
The OP needs to define “fit”.

If you have a one piece header it’s probably not a good header.

Best fitting headers:

Hooker 5303 (can’t buy them any more but it’s still the best all around production head header there is.

Hooker 5204 (can’t get these any more either) but this is the best header for 340-360 inch almost stock engines.

Anything else is just a pain in the ***. Do they go on easy? Nope. But when they are on they fit and they work.

Not a TTi fan.
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Avatar car has the 5204 Hookers. 1-3/4" tube and spark plug access is direct and very simple for all of them. As mentioned, they can challenge you to get them on but once on, they fit well. Car is street-driven some but not a daily driver so ground clearance has not been an issue.
 
Folks always ***** like you have to take the headers off everytime you change oil, - ffs.
Mosta mine have been on over 5 yrs, one over 10 yrs.
Headers are still the most cost effective way to gain h/p .
 
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1967 Barracuda, numbers matching 273, Doug’s hit the steering box, coupler and steering tube on a factory power steering car. I know if I cut the tube and shimmed it up, I could make it work.

IMG_7478.jpeg
 
Worst to Best in a mid-gen A:
Cyclone/Blackjack with Alumi-kote
Went in OK (67 A-body), but trying to tighten the bolts to the head, on both sides the tubes near the collector contacted the chassis.
Returned them. Went to used 340 manifolds instead.
A couple weeks later my friend's brother is putting a non coated set into his full size Blazer. They don't fit either. But he was more determined than I was and exhanged them for another set, which did fit.
All I can say is a if header assembly jig is so bad that they won't always fit in a full size Blazer, sumptin is wrong!

TTI-Shorty (early production)
Spent a lot of time trying to get the head pipe to clear things. Too many changes needed. Sold them.

Custom
Install went great - most of the work done by the builder. It wasn't easy but it wasn't terrible. I've had to take the driver side off a couple times and its a little time consuming but not difficult.

Headers By Ed
By far the easiest install. Both sides are multi-piece with flanges. Only downside is when driving on bad streets the primarys get dented.
 
Newbomb Turk said:
They should all be race headers. Don’t let the word race scare you.

That’s the problem. You want to run junk **** and then ***** about it.

So the answer is YOU NEED A RACE HEADER or stop bitching about header fit.
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American racing headers hands down fit the best but are not made for PS. You can install and remove with engine in the car, each tube is separate.
 
Newbomb Turk said:
I can assume by you post you don’t get it.

If you think a race header can’t be used on the street you don’t know what you don’t know.

Never assume I don’t have at least as much experience as you. Maybe more.

I’d pay for a good set of Hookers before I would run a free set of Doug’s, TTI or any other brand. With the exception of the place up in Massachusetts. And I can’t think of the name of that place right now.

Good headers cost more. Hooker had to have the economy line of junk **** headers to compete with Hedman, Blackjack, Appliance and a whole host of garbage fitting and power killing headers.

There is a lot of bullshit posted on these forums. I call it out. I couldn’t care less if you like it or not.
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Tubular Automotive Headers
 

Dougs 1 5/8 on my 68 Fastback with A/T , power steering and breaks .

TTI 1 7/8 on my 69 340 4 sp Swinger with manuel brakes and steering .

Both fit great !
If you drop the body on the engine/trany / k-member assembly like the factory they all fit better .
And try truck isolators in some scenarios. They are thicker
 
Well, I've only put on three sets of headers on 67-73 A bodies.

First set, late seventies BlackJack in my 73 Duster 340, automatic, PS and A/C. Had to use a BFH to clear the power steering box and maybe other things, they leaked, and two tubes (I think) hung down below the tie rod. Still, I ran them for two years and only mildly dented the low hanging tubes. And they were worth 3/4 of a second off my quarter mile ET.

Second set, 1990 or so, another set of Black Jack or some other cheapy header, into my stepson's 73 Duster 340, manual steering, 3-speed manual. With manual steering, clearances were better, but of course still had two tubes hanging down. It only took my stepson a couple of weeks to knock a hole in one of the low hanging tubes. Patched that, and he drove it another year with those headers, beating the crap out of the low tubes. I was gonna put the stock manifolds back on, but he claimed he knew better now and would take better care of the next set of headers. So, put new ones on, with the same result as before. After one more year, he sold the car, headers leaking like a sieve.

Third set, 2010, I put TTI step headers in my 67 Barracuda 360 automatic, manual steering, no A/C. Easiest install ever, no leaks, didn't have to massage anything, and at the time my left arm was barely working due to surgery. They just fit, didn't leak, didn't hang down. And they also were worth 3/4 second in the quarter on a mostly stock 360, vs. the hi-po early 340 manifolds I had been running.

Three-four years ago, I also put TTIs in my 65 Barracuda, 340 4-speed, manual steering, no A/C. I got them to fit, but I did have to move a few things (wiring, brake lines, etc.), change clutch linkage, massage a couple of tubes, plus raise the driver's side of the motor with a later rubber biscuit for my motor mount. Much more difficult install than the 67, but they do fit and don't leak.

Never tried Doug's.
 
Blackjacks lol I put them my 73 340 dart sport. Got them at super shops in Colorado, think I paid 165.00 lol
 
I just noticed Doug’s headers have gone up to $900.00 at Summit Racing. Very little difference in price between those and TTI’s now.
 
MidnightSwinger said:
1967 Barracuda, numbers matching 273, Doug’s hit the steering box, coupler and steering tube on a factory power steering car. I know if I cut the tube and shimmed it up, I could make it work.

View attachment 1716258365
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Has that motor been measured for correct location, doesn't look like it.

1971 CY Dodge Dart said:
I just noticed Doug’s headers have gone up to $900.00 at Summit Racing. Very little difference in price between those and TTI’s now.
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Those are the new Stainless Steel, $905
Ceramics are still $700ish with discounts .

www.summitracing.com

1969 DODGE DART Doug's Headers D453-SS Doug's Headers Stainless Steel Headers | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Doug's Headers Stainless Steel Headers with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Headers at Summit Racing.
www.summitracing.com www.summitracing.com
Cheers .
 
70 Dart with 340- Headmanns- Junk crushed passenger side collectors - installed factory manifolds and exhaust...fits nice:)

P.S. Id run the Headmanns open at the track but not on the street...
 
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